Smith & Wollensky proves new kid on the block can be best kid on the block

      In the manner of cultural communication that is fine dining, it's the rare medium that's well-done.
      Tender to the teeth, tantalizing to the taste buds.
      The sight of one has made more men's mouths water than all the "Baywatch" babes combined.
      We're talking steak.
      We're talking inch-thick, seared to perfection, USDA-certified prime beef.
      We're talking T-bone. We're talking porterhouse. We're talking rib-eye, sirloin and the always-popular filet mignon.
      No matter how you cut it -- or prepare it -- steak is the Marilyn Monroe of meats. Just ask the U.S. Beef Council, which estimates more than 22 million Americans -- approximately one-12th of the nation's population -- takes a knife and fork to one at least once a week, primarily when dining out.
      From Bangor to Bel-Air, from Seattle to Sarasota, the same words of satisfaction can be heard at restaurants everywhere a sizzling steak is served: "Mmm. Good eating."
      And in Las Vegas, when the conversation turns to the best in fine steaks, one name rises above all others: Smith & Wollensky.
      The new kid on the steakhouse block -- open only since Dec. 1 -- the stylish, $20 million eatery at 3767 Las Vegas Blvd. South, between Showcase Mall and the Polo Towers, garnered the most votes from our distinguished panel of Best of Las Vegas Publisher's Picks steakhouse experts.
      For this balloting, a number of local chefs were polled. In fairness, they could not be affiliated with any resort that features a steakhouse, nor could they be steakhouse chefs.
      Smith & Wollensky, a small but prominent chain first started in New York City in 1977, finished ahead of runner-up Ruth's Chris Steak House. The All-American Bar & Grille in the Rio finished third, followed by The Steak House at Circus Circus and a fifth-place tie between Morton's of Chicago and family-friendly Outback Steakhouse.
      "I'd have to give Smith & Wollensky extremely high marks," explains David Robins, executive chef and partner of both Spago and Chinois restaurants inside The Forum Shops at Caesars. "The quality of the product is exceptional. The steaks are simply grilled to get the best taste. And for a high-end restaurant, the prices are reasonable."
      Ahh, prices. Always a consideration when dining out.
      At Smith & Wollensky, the "steak classics" -- filet, porterhouse, New York sirloin, T-bone -- are all priced at $29.75, a la carte. A typical per-person check, according to managing partner Michael Feighery, runs about $70.
      The eatery, which employs 200, has a main dining room that is open seven days a week from 5 p.m. to midnight, but also has a casual-dining grill that opens at 11:30 a.m. and remains open to 4 a.m. for late comers. That last aspect also receives high marks from Robins.
      "It really benefits a lot of people who work on the Strip," he says. "This is a 24-hour town, so a steakhouse that caters to people who work nontraditional hours is a real plus."
      Andre Rochat, owner and executive chef of Andre's French Restaurant, has been impressed with the "humongous portions" of steak that Smith & Wollensky serves up -- most notably, the 16-ounce filet.
      "You certainly get your money's worth there," Rochat says.
      Feighery describes the atmosphere of his restaurant as "whatever a diner wants it to be."
      "If you want to bring 20 of your friends for an evening of fun, we have room for you here. If you want a quiet, romantic evening, we can accommodate that, also," he explains. "I guess you could say we are like Play-Doh here. You can shape and mold us to fit your own desires."
      Complementing the steak offerings is a 450-selection wine list, valued at $500,000. A variety of desserts are made on the premises, with the exception of a New York cheesecake that is shipped in twice weekly from the Bronx.
      Still, in this theater of fine dining, the steak is the thing.
      "Steak is America's comfort food," Robins explains. "There's nothing more comforting when it comes to dining than a juicy steak, a hot baked potato and a fresh, green salad. Smith & Wollensky has perfected that comfort level."
      Placing second in the balloting was Ruth's Chris Steak House at 3900 Paradise Road and 4561 W. Flamingo Road. The Paradise location is in its 10th year, while the West Flamingo restaurant is in its fifth.
      Advertised as the "Home of serious steaks," Ruth's Chris is a national chain that has been in the steak business for more than 30 years.
      "When I want a good, late-night rib-eye, served straight and seasoned right, I go to Ruth's Chris," says Chas. LaForte, executive chef and part owner of Fellini's Italian Restaurant.
      "I don't ask for a lot. I don't need a lot that is fancy. Just give me tender meat with good flavor. Ruth's Chris has never disappointed me."
      The a la carte restaurant features steaks ranging in price from $22.95 for a petite filet on up to $33.50 for a 24-ounce T-bone. Average per-person check, including drinks, is $60.
      Steaks are flown in daily from Chicago, and Ruth's Chris employs an on-site butcher for final preparations before cooking.
      The Paradise restaurant opens at 11:30 a.m. for lunch and remains open for dinner from 4:30 to 10:30 p.m. The West Flamingo location opens for dinner at 4:30 p.m. and stays open for late-night dining until 3 a.m.
      The All-American Bar & Grille inside the Rio, 3700 W. Flamingo Road, earned praise not only for its top-end Colorado- and Midwest-raised beef but also for its reasonable prices. Full steak dinners -- including potato, vegetable and soup or salad -- range from $17.95 for a top sirloin to $23.95 for a filet or porterhouse.
      Average price per person, with drinks, is $35.
      While the restaurant is open from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., the full steak menu is available from 5 to 11 p.m. only. Like Ruth's Chris, the All-American Bar & Grille has an in-house butcher.
      The dean of local steakhouses on the Strip is, appropriately, called The Steak House. Located on the second floor of Circus Circus, 2880 Las Vegas Blvd. South, it has been serving Las Vegas diners since June 1982.
      Steak dinners at The Steak House run from $15.95 for a one-pound top sirloin to $23.95 for a 13-ounce filet. Average dinner price, with drinks, is $30 per person.
      Receiving high marks from several balloters is a Sunday steak brunch -- priced at $19.95 per person -- that is served in shifts at 9:30 and 11:30 a.m. and 1:30 p.m.
      Tying for fifth among local chefs is high-end Morton's of Chicago, inside the Fashion Show mall at 3200 Las Vegas Blvd. South, and the national residential chain, Outback Steakhouse.
      Morton's opened in Las Vegas in January 1993 and is an a la carte restaurant with steaks ranging in price from $19.95 for tenderloin brochette to $31.95 for a 24-ounce porterhouse. According to assistant general manager Jeff McDermott, the serious steak-eater can order a 48-ounce porterhouse -- that's right, three pounds of red meat -- for $63.90.
      "It doesn't happen often," he says of the steak order. "But once in a while, we'll get somebody. And those who order it usually finish it."
      Morton's is open from 5 to 11 p.m. Monday through Saturday and from 5 to 10 p.m. on Sunday. Average dinner per person is $65.
      For those who may wonder how Outback, the Australian-advertised steakhouse chain, made the list of recommendations from local chefs, the answer is simple: Casual dining paired with good steaks.
      "Sometimes you don't want to get all dressed up to go out, but you still want a great steak," Rochat explains. "Look at the lines waiting to get into any Outback restaurant on any weekend night. The public can't be that wrong."
      Or, as R.E. Lopez, executive "Q'er" at Memphis Championship Barbecue, observes, "The spicing of their steaks is so unique. It's hard to explain, but they've really hit upon something."
      What Outback has hit upon is a special blend of 17 herbs and spices that is touted as "a celebration in your mouth."
      Although Outback is advertised with an Australian theme, the first one opened in Tampa, Fla., in 1988. The first Southern Nevada restaurant opened in March 1994.
      Outback steaks are moderately priced, running from $12.99 for a center-cut, 12-ounce top sirloin to a 20-ounce "Melbourne" porterhouse at $18.99. Average ticket price per person is $17.
      The five local outlets are open from 4 to 10:30 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and until 11:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday.