Eat & Drink

Look beyond the usual suspects to find hidden dining treasures

But toiling away out there almost unnoticed are other chefs and their staffs doing truly wondrous things. Some of their places are upscale, some downscale; most somewhere in between. What they have in common is a relatively small size, for the most part -- at the R-J, we think of them as "holes in the wall" -- a dedication to food and service, and a tendency to be overlooked. Following are some that are worthy of note:

Bangkok 9, 663 N. Stephanie St., Henderson: Fairly new, small and tucked away in a shopping center in a section of Henderson that's dominated by chain restaurants, Bangkok 9 already has established a small cadre of regulars who come for such Thai-restaurant staples as pad Thai, plus shrimp-wrapped sugar cane and panang duck.

Bonjour Casual French Restaurant, 8878 S. Eastern Ave.: Bonjour's not as small as some in this group, but it's tucked away in a U-shaped strip mall that makes it feel like one. It's authentic; just talk to the owner and you'll see (or, rather, hear). And if you want tarte Tatin, why not have one prepared by someone who grew up eating them?

Cafe Heidelberg, 604 E. Sahara Ave.: If you get a hankerin' for sauerbraten and spaetzle, better head over to Cafe Heidelberg, because when it comes to German food, it's the only game in town. Good thing these folks are so talented at preparing delicate schnitzels and good, solid leberkaese.

El Sombrero, 807 S. Main St.: OK, so the neighborhood's not the best, but good food is scarce in suburbia. Besides, there's a personal touch here and the food's the real deal. If you want authentic red chili or huevos rancheros or pesole or just a plate of enchiladas, rice and beans, this is the place to get it.

Florida Cafe, 1401 Las Vegas Blvd. South: Cubans seem to like the Florida Cafe, but the rest of us also can appreciate the fruits of this island cuisine, such things as bistec de palomilla, ropa vieja and the ever-present black beans and rice. And be sure to have some rich, creamy, caramel-blessed flan for dessert.

India Oven, 226 W. Sahara Ave.: If you're an aficionado of Indian food, you'll no doubt love the naan at India Oven. If you've never partaken, go to India Oven just to try the naan, a flatbread made by slapping the dough against the sides of an equally traditional tandoori oven. This is special stuff, lightly charred, delicate and almost flaky. Even the rice is special, infused with the tradewind flavors of cinnamon and cardamom.

Kathy's Southern Cooking, 6407 Mountain Vista St., Henderson: People used to getting their fried chicken out of a deep-fat fryer probably wouldn't appreciate it, but if you're looking for yours made the old-fashioned way in big iron skillets, Kathy's is the place to find it. Most of us could put on the pounds just thinking about it.

Swiss Cafe, 3175 E. Tropicana Ave.: Swiss Cafe is a cozy spot and it's tucked away in a shopping center, which combine to make it a true hole in the wall. But the cuisine's both fine and as eclectic as Switzerland itself, things such as a velvety pate de Champagne and a chicken chas seur crepe.