A.J.'s is everything you'd expect of a Western-style steakhouse: tufted leather doors, dark wood paneling, curved leather booths, hurricane lamps, pugilistic oil paintings and a bar with bronze rails and a granite countertop. The main attraction is fresh steaks, which you can view at an open cook line. The house favorites include a 12-ounce filet mignon and24-ounce porterhouse, but the best offering is the 20-ounce New York strip sirloin -- pure tender juicy meat, no bone, no fat, no gristle, crusty with a smoky, moderate char, yet tender and juicy. In a word, perfectly cooked.