COLUMN: Trip of the week, Margo Bartlett Pesek

      Eroded pinnacles of stone forming tall monoliths occur in the lower end of Eldorado Canyon, just one of many arresting views in this historic and scenic canyon cutting toward Lake Mohave in Lake Mead National Recreational Area.
      With its rugged side canyons, jutting mountains and serene sweeps of blue water, Eldorado Canyon makes an excellent destination for a day's outing while the weather is still relatively cool.
      Eldorado Canyon lies less than an hour's drive from Las Vegas putting it within easy reach of those who love to explore the desert. To reach Eldorado Canyon, follow U.S. Highway 95 through Henderson to the junction at Railroad Pass. Head south on U.S. 95 toward Searchlight and Needles. About 10 miles south of Railroad Pass, turn on state Highway 165, leading through the old mining town of Nelson and Eldorado Canyon to emerge on the upper reaches of Lake Mohave.
      The state highway climbs into some low hills where roadside wildflowers often put on a good show at this time of year. Look for bright yellow sun rays and primroses, pink or red penstemon and the brilliant hot pink of beaver-tail cactus, among others at this season.
      From U.S. 95, it is about 12 miles to the outskirts of Nelson, a town with a colorful mining past. Where miners' shacks and tents once stood, modern buildings and mobile homes now mark the little community. Here and there a rusted tin roof or wall, weathered wood, ruined machinery and remnant foundations of mill sheds tell of the region's past. There are also the diggings, marked by dark tunnels or shafts and piles of tailings.
      Some mines are still being worked, while others may be abandoned. All are potentially dangerous. Please obey all signs posted and watch where you are walking when hiking in this area, for some shafts may be unmarked and unfenced. It is never wise to venture inside old mines as they are not maintained and, therefore, unsafe. Those that are maintained are likely being worked and you would be trespassing.
      Below the little town, the canyon deepens and narrows. The road crosses back and forth over a wash, which sometimes has a running stream. The wash is the main channel for flash floods cascading down from tributary canyons. If weather threatens during your excursion, stay out of the wash. It is about seven miles from Nelson to the water's edge through the canyon. A couple of turnouts afford good views of the eroded pinnacles below the town. Hikers may be able to scramble down to them from the highway turnouts or may prefer to hike up the wash from closer to the lake wherever there are good places to pull safely off the road.
      Although there is some evidence that the Indians and the Spanish mined in the region much earlier, Eldorado Canyon's modern mining history began in the late 1850s, just prior to the Civil War. The difficult journey to this remote desert canyon at first could be made only by overland trails.
      Later, when steamboats were introduced to the Colorado River, transportation became easier and the region boomed. It was the beginning of a colorful era on the Colorado as the little boats battled their way upstream through canyons and rapids. Using huge metal rings drilled into sheer walls, the steamboats fought their way against the current. In the years before this river was tamed by a series of huge dams, the Colorado was alternately trickle or torrent with treacherous sandbars and other hazards.
      In a hard-fought race in January 1858, steamboats first reached the mouth of Eldorado Canyon. Within a year, the rich discoveries in the canyon brought such an influx of men and equipment that the steamboats were kept scurrying up and down the river to meet the demand for transportation. Eventually, better overland routes supplanted the sturdy little riverboats.
      Nevada's mineral wealth was important to the Union cause during the Civil War, bringing about early statehood for the sparsely settled territory. Although no battles were fought in Nevada, of course, individuals with strong opinions and loyalties did not mind expressing them. This led to trouble in Eldorado Canyon, where tempers at one point ran so high that Union and Confederate sympathizers formed into two hostile camps, disturbing the business of mining ore. Federal troops stationed downriver at Fort Mohave were called in to settle the trouble, arriving by steamboat in time to avert further strife.
      The mines of the area produced about $9 million over the next century. The whole region was probed and explored for any signs of gold or silver, leaving a network of old roads that are still partly in use.
      Armed with a good map, desert explorers can enjoy many a happy hour poking about in the region. Just remember to stay on existing roads and don't cut off across country to avoid making new scars on the landscape.