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| Sunday, August 20, 2000
Copyright © Las Vegas Review-Journal COLUMN: TRIP OF THE WEEK: Margo Bartlett Pesek Outdoor enthusiasts find solitude, scenery in Central Nevada
Vast sage-covered valleys between towering mountain ranges characterize much of Central Nevada. The region seems changeless, although men's activities leave their marks in trails, roads, highways, ghost towns and weathering ranch buildings. Despite its many attractions and recreational potential, the area remains largely undiscovered and unknown. It is perfect for those who truly like to get away from it all.
Three wide, long valleys flanked by forested mountains in the region north of Tonopah offer many kinds of outdoor adventures for those who seek them out. Big Smoky Valley lies between the high Toiyabe and the Toquima ranges. Reese River Valley lies west of the Toiyabes while Monitor Valley parallels the Toquimas on the east. The remote Monitor Range rises along the eastern side of Monitor Valley.
Highway access to the region begins with Nevada Highway 376 between U.S. Highway 6 near Tonopah to the south and U.S. Highway 50 near Austin to the north. Side roads leave this paved route through Big Smoky Valley to probe canyons and explore portions of Humboldt-Toiyabe National Forest. Gravel roads access Reese River Valley and Monitor Valley.
Traveling in this region off paved routes is best done using a truck or four-wheel-drive vehicle.
Three large wilderness areas high in the three mountain ranges remain roadless, accessible only by trails. Nevada pack outfitters arrange wilderness horseback adventure trips from pack stations and ranches in the region. Arc Dome Wilderness Area in the Toiyabe Range encompasses high peaks and the pristine meadows and beaver-dammed pools along the headwaters of the Reese River. Alta Toquima Wilderness Area centers on lofty Mount Jefferson in the Toquima Range; at nearly 12,000 feet, it is always streaked with snow. Table Mountain Wilderness Area in the Monitor Range is a high plateau with miles of meadows filled with summer flowers. Dark evergreen forests contrast with stands of aspen, which wear gorgeous fall colors in September and early October.
Detailed information on these Humboldt-Toiyabe National Forest wilderness areas is available at U.S. Forest Service offices and ranger stations in Las Vegas, Tonopah and Austin. The local office is at 2881 S. Valley View Blvd., Suite 16, while the ranger stations in Tonopah and Austin are prominently on the principal highways. Ask in Tonopah and Austin about pack outfitters for horseback trips.
Riotous creeks tumble off the rugged mountain ranges of Central Nevada, carving deep canyons. Nearly every canyon has a cold stream perfect for trout fishing, comprising many miles of streams. Most of the streams may be reached by way of side roads into the lower ends of the canyons, while others may be reached only by trail. Creeks are stocked with several kinds of fish, including native Lahontan cutthroat trout, Nevada's state fish. Fishermen need valid Nevada fishing licenses, available locally.
Hikers and backpackers who love challenges appreciate the network of trails in mountainous Central Nevada. If it is solitude you seek, you'll find it in this remote Nevada backcountry where it is likely you'll walk all day without seeing another soul. The Toiyabe Crest National Recreational Trail is the longest in the network of trails, linked to other canyon trails along its length. Portions of some trails are suitable for adventurous mountain bikers. No motorized vehicles are allowed in the wilderness areas, but many trails and old roads in the vicinity of ghost towns lure off-road enthusiasts.
Ghostly remains of long dead mining camps dot the region, for the search for mineral wealth was intense in the past and continues today. You'll spot old diggings, foundations of mill sites and weathered remnants of buildings when you follow roads and trails in the area.
Beautiful Kingston Canyon in the Toiyabe Range boasts many signs of former activity, fascinating remnants of history.
Across Reese River Valley lies Ione. Once a boomtown, Ione is now a quiet home to a small population with a number of old buildings still standing, some occupied.
The Reese River Valley road also provides unpaved access to Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park, where old Berlin lies in a state of arrested decay.
Camping is popular in the region from May through October, depending on winter snows. At least 10 designated campgrounds totaling nearly 100 campsites are scattered in wooded areas maintained by the U.S. Forest Service in the three mountain ranges. These are nonreservation sites for tents and trailers with no hookups, available on a first-come basis. Modest fees may apply. Several small RV parks in roadside settlements and small towns in Central Nevada also accommodate campers.
After long days of arduous outdoor exertion, nothing could be more welcome than a hot soaking bath to rinse away trail or road dust and sore muscles. Two natural hot springs provide this opportunity in Big Smoky Valley. At the upper end of the valley east of the highway, a dirt road accesses Spencer's Hot Springs where visitors find several hot-water pools and stock tanks. Darrough's Hot Springs are north of Carver's, a short way off Highway 376. Both hot springs are indicators of the volcanism that helped shape Central Nevada.
Central Nevada supports many kinds of wildlife. It is popular with seasonal hunters. Travelers along back roads, hikers and off-roaders often sight deer, antelope and elk. Those who are especially alert may spot predators such as coyotes, foxes and cougars.
The region is also known for game birds such as grouse and chukar often surprised into bursting noisily upward from the sage when startled. Eagles and hawks soaring overhead epitomize the freedom and uncluttered open space that Central Nevada offers.
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MARGO BARTLETT PESEK
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