RESTAURANT REVIEW: Turning up the Heat

The interior of Lotus of Siam is somewhat plain, but the food is anything but boring.
Photo by Ralph Fountain.

HEIDI KNAPP RINELLA

In its October issue, Gourmet magazine called Lotus of Siam "the best Thai restaurant in the United States."

I'm not sure I'd go that far; I haven't been to every Thai restaurant in the United States. But I'll say this: Lotus of Siam is the best Thai restaurant I've tried in this country.

You can rest assured it's also authentic. The Thai type on the menu could be a contrivance for the sake of atmosphere, but when the check arrives handwritten in the same script, it's safe to say the owners aren't pals from Poughkeepsie.

Lotus of Siam serves Issan-style Thai food, which refers to the northeastern region of the country. (Today's geography lesson: the region is bordered by the Mekong River and Laos and is replete with rain forests, grasslands and forested plains.) Traditionally, the cuisine of that region is more highly spiced than those of the other regions of Thailand, and the menu notes that some of the dishes are influenced by the cultures of Laos and Cambodia.

At Lotus of Siam, the extra-spiciness of Issan cuisine is manifested both in the tried-and-true dishes found on the menu of every mom-and-pop Thai restaurant and the more unusual ones. And there are plenty of both: The menu lists 131 dishes. It would take many visits -- and lots and lots of water -- to work your way through most of it. Descriptions in English are clear (sometimes a little too clear, such as in the cases of dishes that list "beef tendon" or "beef intestine" as ingredients).

We tried three tried-and-trues -- things we sample in nearly every Thai restaurant we visit: tom kah kai ($4.95 for a cup, $8.95 for a bowl or $11.95 for a hot pot), pad Thai ($6.95) and Panang curry ($7.95).

The tom kah kai is a classic coconut-infused soup with chicken, galanga and lemon grass. It's traditionally spicy and warming, greatly enriched by the coconut flavor. At Lotus of Siam, it's even more spicy, but the crushed red pepper is a fantastic counterpoint to the calming coconut. Bland-flavored straw mushrooms are another calming touch; a generous sprinkling of fresh coriander (known to Mexican-food fans as cilantro) adds interest.

The Panang curry (another coconut-flavored dish; we chose pork) was likewise enlivened by a boost of dried chili.

The pad Thai was actually the last dish we were served, and it was a good thing; this classic combination of rice noodles, chicken, egg and scallions did much to put out the fire.

But on to the less familiar dishes we tried (we had a lot of takeout containers): two appetizers, nua dad deaw ($6.95) and nam kao tod ($6.95), and a Lotus Siam special, nua sao renu ($9.95).

The nua dad deaw was billed as "beef jerky Issan style," which is what sold us, and there was truth in advertising. This was true beef jerky -- so prone to fighting back that we abandoned all attempts to use a fork and resorted to our fingers -- and it was very, very spicy, and served with a savory sauce only slightly less so.

The nam kao tod contained minced Thai sour sausage seasoned with ginger, fresh chilies (of course) and scallions and served with crispy rice. The sausage -- new to us -- indeed had a sour flavor, but pleasantly so, and nicely contrasted the other ingredients.

The nua sao renu -- sliced charbroiled beef atop a bed of sliced raw cabbage -- was spiced with dried chili (there it is again) and served with a lovely tamarind sauce.

But this time, we were dazzled by the forest of flavors but our mouths were completely aflame, despite continually refilled water glasses and the soothing effect of the pad Thai. Knowing that dairy products can calm the burn, we decided on some coconut ice cream with sticky rice ($3.50). It was absolutely, positively, incredibly delicious. We've had sticky rice before, but this dish was so perfect that we were moved to purchase a sticky-rice steamer.

Service throughout was efficient, the servers hustling mightily. The atmosphere was plain and lovely at the same time, with gorgeous wooden tables, pretty clear-and-bronze glass chandeliers and some little private seating areas set off by shoji screens.

Rest assured we'll be back, soon. Now that we've felt the fire, we're ready for another go.

Las Vegas Review-Journal restaurant reviews are unannounced and done anonymously at Review-Journal expense.

what: Lotus of Siam

where: 953 E. Sahara Ave., No. A-5

phone: 735-3033

overall: A

food: A

atmosphere: B+

service: A-

pluses: Varied menu with the offbeat and the tried-and-true.

minuses: If you can't take the heat, stay out of the kitchen -- and the dining room.