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Friday, April 12, 2002 Copyright © Las Vegas Review-Journal Dining Out
Dining Out features only establishments that have been reviewed by Review-Journal restaurant critic Heidi Knapp Rinella. All opinions are those of the critic, who grades the restaurant based on food, service and ambience. Our critic dines unannounced and anonymously at Review-Journal expense. Prices are based on the cost of an average entree for a single person using the following symbols: $ = entrees under $10: $$ = entrees betwen $10 and $20; $$$ = entrees between $20 and $30; and $$$$ = entrees more than $30
American
BAGEL CAFE 301 N. Buffalo Drive; 255-3444 (also at 4500 E. Sunset Road in Henderson) Overall: B $ We truly love Bagel Cafe's piled-up-to-here sandwiches, although we were somewhat less enthused with its dinner specials. Still, the roast chicken with rosemary was succulent, and the turkey, though cursed by a too-thin gravy, tasted like your memories of the bird your mother roasted at Thanksgiving. (8/24/01)
CENTER STAGE The Plaza, 1 Main St.; 386-2512 Overall: C $$ Center Stage has just about the best view downtown; it's a great place to see the Fremont Street Experience light show during dinner. It's got reasonable prices, as well, and you won't complain about the portion size, although the details need a little more attention. Still, we liked the Caesar salad, the filet mignon and a veal dish that was in the style of a saltimbocca. (8/3/01)
CHICAGO BREWING CO. 2201 S. Fort Apache Road; 254-3333 Overall: B+ $ Early indications had us concerned about the service at the Chicago Brewing Co. and sure enough, there was a pretty serious snafu, but you know what? They fixed it, and without us voicing a complaint. We'll go back for service like that, and also for the fantastic garlicky, yeasty Michigan Avenue Cheese Knots, the fettucine with marinara and fennel-flecked sausage and the pot roast that tasted as though it had been braised for hours (and that's a good thing). (2/15/02)
CLAIM JUMPER 1100 S. Fort Apache Road; 243-8751 Overall: B+ $$$ All everybody talks about are the huge portions, but the Claim Jumper's about more than quantity; the fire-roasted artichoke with tomato relish and roasted garlic mayonnaise is evidence of that. So are the Whiskey Chicken and the Parmesan-garlic onion rings, although the prime rib and a wedge of chocolate cheese pie were more middlin'. (11/23/01)
GRAND LUX CAFE The Venetian, 3355 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 414-1000 Overall: B $$$ Service at the Grand Lux was spotty -- our waitress was distracted at best -- but the food was, for the most part, top-notch. We especially liked the Asian nachos, oven-roasted mussels and Mongolian steak. The Grand Lux is owned by the same company as the Cheesecake Factory, so don't miss dessert; a wedge of Dulce de Leche cheesecake was sweetly indulgent. (8/25/00)
HILL TOP HOUSE 3500 N. Rancho Drive; 645-9904 Overall: B $$ If you're looking for a blast from the past, or a piece of life in old Las Vegas in far simpler times, the Hill Top House Supper Club is a good place to look. The food's as straightforward as the streamlined menu, although the waitresses will make you feel like you're in Mom's kitchen. We liked the pan-fried chicken and the 12-to-14-ounce New York strip, and the onion rings and fried zucchini with cheese sauce were conventional enough to seem offbeat in this fusionified era. (9/28/01)
KATHY'S SOUTHERN COOKING 6407 Mountain Vista St., Henderson; 433-1005 Overall: A $$ We seem to be on a roll when it comes to finding great, independent little places. Kathy's has cooking like Mama used to make -- if Mama was a good Southern cook. The fried chicken and smothered pork chops were fantastic, but no more so than Kathy's ethereal corn bread. And we'd take the sweet potato pie and bread pudding again anytime. (8/11/00)
LAWRY'S THE PRIME RIB 4043 Howard Hughes Parkway; 893-2223 Overall: A $$$ Lawry's is probably best loved by lovers of prime rib; that classic beef cut is the star attraction and the star of the show at Lawry's tableside carving carts. Still, the token seafood dishes are more than tokens, and the salad that's included with entrees and vegetables that aren't complete the picture of consistent quality. (12/28/01)
MEMPHIS CHAMPIONSHIP BARBECUE 2250 E. Warm Springs Road; 260-6909 (also at 4379 Las Vegas Blvd. North) Overall: B $ Barbecue's a real personal thing, known to set off battles between aficionados of the various types. At Memphis Championship, the barbecue's Memphis-style, appropriately enough. We especially liked the pulled pork, the hot links and the baked beans. And a baked sweet potato filled with cinnamon-infused butter was absolutely perfect. (10/13/00)
MIMI'S CAFE 1121 S. Fort Apache Road; 341-0365 Overall: B- $ You're likely to hear strains of "Over There" as you gaze around Mimi's Cafe's collection of French-style ephemera, but the menu is decidedly American -- which is to say well-varied, borrowing from many cultures. Worthy of note: a Thai chicken wrap, onion soup, barbecued meatloaf and hot praline bars, plus a carrot bread that's both unique and delicious. (3/9/01)
MOUNT CHARLESTON HOTEL 2 Kyle Canyon Road; 872-5500 Overall: B- $$ We absolutely love to dine at the scenic and comfortable Mount Charleston Hotel, but our recent dinner didn't measure up to the breakfasts and lunches we've had there. Onion soup and sautéed mushrooms for starters were quite good, but the shrimp tempura and steak Diane were less successful. (6/23/00)
RAINFOREST CAFE MGM Grand, 3799 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 891-8580 Overall: A- $$ The ultrathemed Rainforest Cafe chain doesn't ignore the food. The Awesome Appetizer Adventure, said to serve two, was enough for four and included some super coconut chicken and island pot stickers, among other things. Also noteworthy were cedar-plank salmon and the Southwest ancho chile rib-eye, although we thought that at $12.99, the chocolate volcano was overpriced. (6/16/00)
STAGE DELI Forum Shops at Caesars, 3500 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 893-4045 Overall: A- $$ Whether the Stage Deli is authentic depends on your personal definition of deli, but rest assured that it's a fine spot for thickly stacked pastrami sandwiches, oh-so-sour pickles and tomatoes, homemade corned-beef hash and cheesecake that's richer than Bill Gates. But -- as is the case with any self-respecting deli -- don't expect a quiet, intimate atmosphere. (2/22/02)
THE SUMMIT 2215 Thomas W. Ryan Blvd.; 240-1311 Overall: B $$$ The Summit -- off the extreme west end of Lake Mead Boulevard -- has a show-stopping view of the Strip, and a menu that's surprisingly reasonably priced. Among the best: baked herb-crusted brie with lingonberry sauce, honey herb-crusted lamb chops and a side dish of Anna potatoes. (10/27/00)
A TASTE OF N'AWLINS 9320 Sun City Blvd.; 304-9300 Overall: B+ $$ Cajun doesn't have to be overly spicy to be good, and a trip to A Taste of N'Awlins! is likely to prove that. Seasoning is used creatively, judiciously and traditionally there, and the restaurant's gumbo and jambalaya are much more than the sum of their parts. Fried oysters were exemplary, too -- fried just long enough to remain moist and tender. (9/7/01)
TENAYA CREEK RESTAURANT & BREWERY 3101 N. Tenaya Way; 362-7335 Overall: B+ $$ A warm greeting on a cold, rainy night certainly made us feel welcome at Tenaya Creek, and things continued in that vein when our food was served. Things we'd be happy to try again included Brewhouse Wings, toasted artichoke ravioli, Creek Pork Chops, a petite filet mignon and desserts of bananas Foster and Beer-a-Misu. (1/19/01)
Asian
AMLEE GOURMET 3827 E. Sunset Road; 898-3358 Overall: B+ $$ White Creamy Shrimp may not be your garden-variety Chinese-American restaurant entree, but it's one we'd go back for again and again, and it's part of the evidence proving that you can expect more than the usual at Amlee Gourmet. Other winners include War Won Ton Soup, Asparagus Chicken, an appetizer platter and crunchy-crusted caramelized glazed bananas. (3/8/02)
BANGKOK 9 663 N. Stephanie St., Henderson; 898-6881 Overall: B+ $ Part of Bangkok 9's appeal is Lulu, the co-owner/hostess who's a living reminder of the charm of mom-and-pop operations. But another part is the food -- including one of the best versions of Tom Ka Kai around, plus a serviceable Pad Thai and such varied offerings as Pangang Duck. The Sticky Rice a la Mode is a nice finish. (2/1/02)
CATHAY HOUSE 5300 Spring Mountain Road; 876-3838 Overall: B- $$ Cathay House has a gorgeous view of The Strip and an innovative menu with a few different twists on the ol' Chinese. The Pu-Pu platter was exceptional for the genre and the strawberry chicken very good. Even the egg-flower soup was better than average, with bits of vegetable added to the usual rich stock and gelatinous strands of egg. (4/14/00)
HAMADA OF JAPAN 365 E. Flamingo Road; 733-3005 (locations also at JW Marriott, Luxor, Flamingo, Polo Towers and Stratosphere) Overall: B $$$ Hamada of Japan's three dining areas -- the dining room, sushi bar and what Americans call "Japanese steakhouse" -- make this interesting cuisine more accessible for novices. We chose the dining room and loved the gyo za and the salmon teriyaki and tempura, although the tatsuta age and ton katsu were less interesting. (7/14/00)
LOTUS OF SIAM 953 E. Sahara (in the Commercial Center), No. A-5; 735-3033 Overall: A $$ Gourmet magazine called Lotus of Siam the best Thai restaurant in the country. We're not sure we'd go that far, but we can highly recommend familiar dishes such as tom kah kai, pad Thai and Panang curry, and less-familiar ones like nua dad deaw (sort of a very spicy beef jerky), nam kao tod (minced sour sausage) and nua sao renu (sliced charbroiled beef atop sliced raw cabbage). (10/20/00)
P.F. CHANG'S CHINA BISTRO 1095 S. Rampart Blvd.; 968-8885 (also at 4165 Paradise Road and 3667 Las Vegas Blvd. South) Overall: B $$ With its soaring ceilings and prodigious use of stone, P.F. Chang's isn't your one-from-column-A kind of Chinese restaurant, but then again, it's not particularly innovative, either. We think people like the familiar nature of the menu and dishes such as seared ahi tuna, won ton soup that's much better than the classic, Malaysian chicken and lemon scallops. (Other locations: in the Aladdin, 3667 Las Vegas Blvd. South, and at 4165 Paradise Road.) (3/23/01)
Ethnic miscellaneous
BAHAMA BREEZE 375 Hughes Center Drive; 731-3252 Overall: A- $$ OK, the food at Bahama Breeze isn't exactly what we would call authentic Caribbean, but sometimes that's not a bad thing. We like the fact that the restaurant offers full- and half-order options on many of its entrees. Even more, we liked the fusionistic tostones con pollo as a starter and entrees of coconut curry chicken and Bahamian kabobs, both of which were seasoned subtly but soulfully. Jose's Chocolate Tres Leches was a rich finish. (10/12/01)
BOHEMIA'S 2550 S. Rainbow Blvd.; 253-6274 Overall: A- $$ Tapas, the "little dishes" of Spain, once were a handy thing for the traveler in the Spanish countryside, but today they're a handy way to design your own meal, especially as interpreted at Bohemia's. Noteworthy were four tapas we sampled: the Tortilla Espanola, quesadilla, Fundido and Jamon Serrano. For dessert, the Crema Catalina was further tribute to one of the world's great cuisines. (12/7/01)
CAFE HEIDELBERG 604 E. Sahara Ave.; 731-5310 Overall: B+ $$ Cafe Heidelberg has all of the usual German favorites and a couple of the more offbeat as well. A case in point is Leberkaese, a pork-and-veal-loaf peasant dish served topped with a fried egg. Wienerschnitzel's offered two ways -- with veal or pork -- and the veal version was delicate, light, perfect. Spaetzel, bread dumplings and red cabbage were tasty as well, but next time, we'd skip the soggy strudel. (4/13/01)
FLORIDA CAFE 1401 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 385-3013 Overall: B- $ While various ethnic cuisines have been gaining ground in Las Vegas, Cuban has been somewhat under-represented. If you haven't discovered it yet, consider Florida Cafe, where classic favorites include the earthily seasoned shredded-beef ropa vieja, thin and tender bistec de Palomilla, crisp fried green plantains, sausage sautéed with onion, and a rich, creamy flan. (6/15/01)
GOULASH POT 6135 W. Sahara Ave.; 253-7378 Overall: B- $ Not all of the dishes at the Goulash Pot reflected the rich, complex flavors of fine Hungarian cuisine, but among those that came close were the World Famous Goulash Pot and the Veal Gulyas, the latter with lovely, delicate little dumplings. The apricot and raspberry crepes were a tasty throwback, but next time we'd tell them to hold the chocolate sauce. (12/14/01)
INDIA OVEN 226 W. Sahara Ave.; 366-0222 Overall: B+ $$ India Oven may not look like much from the outside, but inside is a world of wonderfully complex, intricately melded flavors, from the pakora and samosa appetizers to the kulfi ice cream, with tandoori chicken, lamb korma and cinnamon- and cardamom-flavored rice in between. Don't miss the featherlight naan bread, baked in the tandoor oven. (3/2/01)
J.C. WOOLOUGHAN JW Marriott, 221 N. Rampart Blvd.; 869-7777 Overall: B+ $$ An antidote to all of those ethnically themed restaurants that actually have a few token ethnic dishes on the menu is J.C. Wooloughan, which has a few token dishes that aren't Irish. We heartily recommend the potato-leek soup, the Murphy's beef boxty and especially Aunt Maura's Sticky Toffee Pudding. And the atmosphere, which is the next best thing to a trip to the old sod. (9/22/00)
KITCHEN CAFE 4950 W. Flamingo Road; 222-0880 Overall: B+ $$ Extra touches with old favorites are what helps separate Kitchen Cafe from the pack. We loved the extra portion of cinnamon- and honey-infused syrup that topped the baklava, the avgolemono sauce that topped the warm stuffed grape leaves, and yeomanlike renderings of saganaki, moussaka and, to a somewhat lesser extent, pastitsio. Opa! (11/9/01)
MARRAKECH 3900 Paradise Road; 737-5611 Overall: B $$$$ Marrakech certainly has a novel premise. Everybody eats the same six-course dinner, and they do it at low benches and tables, with Moroccan rugs on the walls and periodic entertainment by belly dancers. But novelty is no substitute for good food, and Marrakech has plenty of the latter -- including a wonderfully garlicky shrimp scampi, great hummus and marinated vegetables, and a flaky and fruity pastilla for dessert. (5/11/01)
SWISS CAFE 3175 E. Tropicana Ave.; 454-2270 Overall: A- $$ The Swiss Cafe's menu is as diverse as the culture of Switzerland, with a few traditionally Swiss dishes and some that are German, French or American for good measure. Particularly noteworthy during our visit were the pate de Champagne, Sauerbraten and cherries Jubilee crepe, and we also liked the chicken chasseur crepe and Swiss onion soup. (11/16/01)
YOLIE'S BRAZILIAN STEAKHOUSE 3900 Paradise Road; 794-0700 Overall: B- $$$$ There are other things on the menu at Yolie's, but the specialty of the house is the Brazilian rodizio, a succession of meats that arrive at your table on a big skewer, to be sliced off into servings. Some of them are better than others -- a few overcooked, we thought -- but it's a definite crowd-pleaser. (5/25/01)
French
ANDRE'S FRENCH RESTAURANT 401 S. Sixth St.; 385-5016 (also in the Monte Carlo, 3770 Las Vegas Blvd. South) Overall: A $$$$ In a town where the average restaurant has the staying power of a tourist's bankroll, Andre's has been a landmark practically since it opened in 1980. And for good reason; it's excellent, and that applies to food, atmosphere and service. We can heartily recommend the veal sweetbreads and chicken quenelles, hearts of palm salad, roasted Alaskan halibut with chervil beurre blanc, roasted Colorado rack of lamb and perfect Grand Marnier soufflé. (6/22/01)
BONJOUR CASUAL FRENCH 8878 S. Eastern Ave.; 270-2102 Overall: A $$$ Bonjour Casual French Restaurant has become a closely guarded secret; the regulars don't want you to know. Forget images of stuffy French places; this one is downright welcoming and comfortable. Highly recommended: the Roquefort and pear Napoleon, onion soup gratinee, vegetable ravioli and especially the crusted salmon. (1/5/01)
MON AMI GABI Paris, 3655 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 946-7000 Overall: A $$$ If steak frites -- which involves a nice thin steak, as opposed to the nice thick steak favored by most Americans -- is somewhat of an acquired taste, Mon Ami Gabi is a great place to acquire it. The kitchen also knows how to turn out a super baked Brie (with crisp phyllo instead of soggy puff pastry), a great tomato salad with Maytag blue cheese and a lovely crepe Normandy. And if you're lucky, you can sit outside and watch the Strip go by. (5/4/01)
Italian
BELLA LUNA 7905 W. Sahara Ave.; 227-7900 Overall: A $$ The problem with most Italian restaurants is that there isn't much to distinguish one from the other. Not the case at Bella Luna, which has the novelty of an antipasto cart (not original, but not commonplace), a number of dishes you won't find everywhere -- maybe anywhere -- and some truly superlative gnocchi. We also liked the Chicken alla Siciliana and the strawberries with crema zabaglione. (10/19/01)
THE BOOTLEGGER BISTRO 7700 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 736-4939 Overall: B $$ Don't expect fantastic service, but the food should more than make up for it; it's the reason the Bootlegger and its forerunners have been Las Vegas institutions since 1955. The Antipasto Classico was a true Italian classic. We also liked the shrimp scampi, the Saltimbocca alla Blackie and the eggplant Parmigiana. And the little squares of bread, accompanied by sauce, that they serve before dinner are heavenly. (6/29/01)
BUCA DI BEPPO 7690 W. Lake Mead Blvd.; 363-6524 (also at 412 E. Flamingo Road) Overall: A- $$$ The garlic bread, mozzarella caprese and rigatoni positano we had at Buca di Beppo were nothing short of fantastic, although an order of spaghetti and meatballs suffered a bit in the translation. This is a fun place, where dishes are served family-style, decorations are a riot and you're supposed to make noise. (6/30/00)
CARRABBA'S ITALIAN GRILL 10160 S. Eastern Ave.; 990-0650 Overall: A- $$ Carrabba's Italian Grill is a chain, but it's one that's a departure from the chain tradition of homogenization -- right down to the trees on the roof and a somewhat eccentric waiter. The bruschetta's one of the best (and most generous) around, and winning entrees include the mezzaluna stuffed pasta and the sirloin Marsala with its topping of mushrooms and prosciutto. (6/8/01)
FORTUNATO'S ITALIAN RESTAURANT 3430 E. Tropicana Ave.; 458-3333 Overall: B $$ Fortunato's has a Greek touch these days, apparently because of a change in ownership, but Italian still predominates, and it's good Italian. Service was a bit of a problem (slow to start, and way too much time between courses) but we liked the mussels marinara, veal Parmesan and the ultra-rich fettucine Alfredo. (8/17/02)
OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY 721 Mall Ring Circle, Henderson; 458-0845 Overall: C+ $ The Henderson Old Spaghetti Factory is part of a budget chain, and for the most part, you get what you pay for there. There are a few exceptions, though. We really liked the spaghetti with mizithra cheese and the creamy pesto salad dressing, although the salad it dressed was lackluster. The decor of the place is more akin to what we'd expect in an upscale spot. (12/29/00)
SPIEDINI RISTORANTE JW Marriott, 221 N. Rampart Blvd.; 869-8500 Overall: A $$$ From the fried thinly sliced potatoes and zucchini with creamy Gorgonzola sauce to the pineapple carpaccio, our dinner at Spiedini was super -- in terms of food, service and atmosphere. In between, we liked the antipasto misto; the spinach salad with pears, prosciutto and candied walnuts; the herb-crusted lamb medallions; and the veal chop stuffed with fontina, prosciutto and sage. (2/23/01)
STEFANO'S Golden Nugget, 129 Fremont St.; 385-7111 Overall: A- $$$ Stefano's is kind of tucked away in a spot where it's easily forgotten, but that would be a mistake; this place is attractive and charming (with waiters who sing the songs you heard on Ed Sullivan) and the food is grand. We can recommend the cold antipasti, stracciatella, pappardelle carbonara, balsamic-glazed chicken and berries with custard sauce. (1/11/02)
Mexican
CARLOS' MEXICAN CAFE 561 Hotel Plaza, Boulder City; 294-6640 Overall: A- $$ We love to find great little places few people know about, and Carlos' certainly qualifies as one. We loved the chicken enchilada, the broccoli-and-pine nut enchilada and the beef tamale, but even the beans and rice were special. As was dessert, a creamy flan with a touch of chocolate added. (10/6/00)
CASA MERCADO 4500 E. Sunset Road, Henderson; 435-6200 Overall: B $ Casa Mercado's a nicely decorated place, which may give it an inauthentic feel to some. As for us, we liked most things about it, especially the hot-and-spicy queso fundido, the Parillada and the three-item combo of chili relleno, cheese enchilada and pork tamale. Service was close to perfect -- which is more than we can say about some of those "authentic" spots. (11/10/00)
DONA MARIA TAMALES 910 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 382-6538 (also at 3205 N. Tenaya Way) Overall: B+ $$ Dona Maria Tamales is the real deal; if you don't believe us, just ask some of the fans gathered for Wednesday night futbol. Featherlight tamales are the specialty of the house and the cheese version was oozy and just spicy enough, its mildly spiced pork counterpart succulent. And on a return visit, we'd be sure not to miss the queso fundido con chorizo. (12/21/01)
EL SOMBRERO 807 S. Main St.; 382-9234 Overall: B $ When a restaurant has been in business this long -- 50 years, 36 under the current owner -- you get the feeling that the operators must be doing something right, and El Sombrero's are. Good, honest, simple Mexican food is what it is, including two fantastic salsas and laudable red chile, guacamole salad, huevos rancheros and a combination the included an enchilada, a taco and a chile relleno. (8/4/00)
GARDUNO'S Palms, 4321 W. Flamingo Road; 942-777 (also at the Fiesta, 2400 N. Rancho Drive) Overall: B $$ Garduño's is a nontraditional kind of Mexican place, which just makes it more interesting. The guacamole tableside was far more than a gimmick, with a fantastic rich creaminess. The House Roast seafood pan roast -- a delicious amalgamation of shrimp, lobster and crab in a silken broth -- was a pleasant surprise, and the stuffed filet with crab, shrimp, queso fresco and pico de gallo a nice contrast of flavors and textures. (3/1/02)
LINDO MICHOACAN 2655 E. Desert Inn Road; 735-6828 Overall: A- $$ Skip the chains; at Lindo Michoacan, you can get the stuff that's safely familiar and a nice variety of more offbeat authentic Mexican fare, served up in a colorful, pleasant atmosphere. The state of Michoacan is known for its carnitas and this is a perfect version of the braised pork, moist and tender and flavored slightly with orange. Other winners: Queso Fundido, Pollo en Estofado Estilo Doctor Francisco and, for dessert, sopapillas. (9/21/01)
TAQUERIA CANONITA Grand Canal Shoppes, 3355 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 414-3773 Overall: A- $$ Here's a little bit of a mixed metaphor: a Mexican restaurant -- which specializes in "Mexico City soul food" -- alongside The Venetian's canal. There's no confusion about Taqueria Canonita's mission, though, and that's obvious from the food, which includes a nice earthy roasted-tomato salsa, interesting barbecued corn pizza and wild mushroom empanada and truly inspired barbecued pork. (1/25/02)
WILLY & JOSE'S Sam's Town, 5111 Boulder Highway; 454-8044 Overall: B- $$ Willy & Jose's has a great concept -- part nouveau Mexican, part classic Tex-Mex -- but only the latter part lives up to its billing. High points included the tomatillo salsa served with chips as a starter, a classic combination plate that involved beef and chicken enchiladas and a beef taco and a nicely textured Kahlua flan. (3/30/01)
New American
808 Caesars Palace, 3570 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 731-7110 Overall: A $$$$ 808's got the feel of a spa but a full menu of dishes that are not for the calorie-conscious. Innovative and tasty, they include a grilled asparagus salad with goat-cheese fritter, scallops with white-truffle mashed potatoes, grilled ahi with foie gras and potato terrine, seared beef fillet with crisp sun-dried tomato polenta and a mousse of toasted macadamia nuts and coconut. (7/13/01)
AUREOLE Mandalay Bay, 3950 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 632-7777 Overall: B $$$$ Aureole's menu showed pure genius, in such creations as salmon crusted with chestnuts served on braised red cabbage with butternut-squash sauce and apple jam, or foie-gras terrine with spiced-apple puree. This obviously was the tail-end of the fall/winter menu; we're musing about what chef Charlie Palmer might try for spring and summer. (4/7/00)
CAFE NICOLLE 4760 W. Sahara Ave.; 870-7675 Overall: B $$$ The Baklava Cheesecake was a highlight, but there was much to like at Cafe Nicolle, including a filet mignon skewer, mozzarella fra diavolo and seared ahi, from a menu that manages to touch on many of the major world cuisines without losing its focus. If it's a pleasant evening, be sure to sit outdoors and enjoy it. (6/1/01)
COMMANDER'S PALACE Desert Passage, 3663 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 892-8272 Overall: A $$$$ Leave it to the Southerners to show us how it's done: Commander's Palace is gracious and then some. As for the food, we'd happily again experience the Soup 1-1-1, panroasted Gulf oysters, spinach Rockefeller, veal chop Tchoupitoulas, pecan-crusted fish and bread-pudding souffle. (4/6/01)
DRAI'S Barbary Coast, 3595 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 737-0555 Overall: A- $$$ Drai's needs a bit of polishing (the carpet needed a good cleaning when we were there, for example, although we've heard it's since been replaced), but at least the kitchen's on top of things, and we love the exotic surroundings with lots of candles that conjure memories of old Vegas. The carrot-ginger soup was awfully good, and we also liked the tomato, basil and goat cheese tart, the steak tartar, the Seven Hour Leg of Lamb and a Grand Marnier souffle. (8/31/01)
EIFFEL TOWER Paris Las Vegas, 3655 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 948-6937 Overall: A $$$$ Bring money -- buckets and buckets of money -- but this one's worth saving for all year. Everything we tasted -- sautéed foie gras with carmelized salsify, Midwest butternut squash soup, duck a l'orange, sautéed medallions of venison currant and hazelnut souffle -- was wonderful. (12/22/00)
GRAPE STREET 7501 W. Lake Mead Blvd.; 228-9463 Overall: A $$$ One thing that makes Grape Street so wonderful is the degree of innovation on its menu. Another thing is its flexibility; customers can choose any number and combination of dishes. Service is top-notch, and so is the food -- like a baked Brie with carmelized onions, or penne a la vodka with chicken, or succulent, tender lamb chops. And the Stilton and Port plate was a refreshing dessert choice. (5/19/00)
HUGO'S CELLAR The Four Queens, 202 Fremont St.; 385-4011 Overall: A- $$$$ Hugo's Cellar is a longtime Las Vegas institution, and for good reason. It's a charming place, with charming decor and a charming tradition of giving each female customer a red rose. Also charming -- and delicious -- is the tableside salad bar. The hot-rock appetizer, roast duck flambe anise and tournedos Hugo are worthy of recommendation. We also liked the very nonsnobby sommelier. (5/5/00)
MAYFLOWER CUISINIER 4750 W. Sahara Ave.; 870-8432 Overall: A- $$$ If it's one-from-column-A Asian you want, skip Mayflower Cuisinier; this is fusion innovation at its best. Particularly impressive were the chicken potstickers and ginger-chicken ravioli (see what we mean about fusion?), pistachio-encrusted salmon with ginger-caper sauce, chocolate torte and especially the trio of creme brulee. (1/12/01)
PICASSO Bellagio, 3600 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 693-7111 Overall: A $$$$ How refreshing -- an upscale restaurant that doesn't think it has to be snooty. Especially high attention to detail meant that nearly everything we tried was fantastic, including warm quail salad, poached oysters, seafood boudin, medallions of fallow deer and slow-roasted prime short ribs. Desserts were innovative and delicious. (7/28/00)
RENOIR The Mirage, 3400 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 791-7111 Overall: A $$$$ Renoir was a work of art, in almost all senses of the word. Particularly noteworthy were the roasted breast of pheasant with foie gras, potato and artichoke confit, pancetta-wrapped veal tenderloin and tiny little lemon-almond macaroons served as a lagniappe. Service can be a little pretentious, but at least it's not snobby. Be prepared, however, to spend big bucks -- bucketsful of bucks. (3/17/00)
ROSEMARY'S 8125 Sahara Ave.; 869-2251 Overall: A $$$ The arrival of the celebrity chefs has had an unexpected side benefit in raising the overall quality of restaurants frequented mainly by locals, and Rosemary's is a case in point. Sweetbreads were wonderfully prepared, as was the wild-mushroom goat toast, and we loved the rosemary roasted lamb and a brick-quail special. (6/9/00)
SPAGO The Forum Shops at Caesars, 3500 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 369-6300 Overall: A $$$ Wolfgang Puck started the celebrity-chef excitement in Las Vegas, and his Spago restaurant continues to carry the torch. Hudson Valley foie gras prepared two ways was delectible; other high points included an arugula-fennel salad with grapefruit and apples, an entree of roasted salmon with fried green tomatoes and Rocky Range chicken with lovely crisp vegetables. (9/1/00)
TINOCO'S BISTRO 1756 E. Charleston Blvd.; 678-6811 (also at 4485 S. Jones Blvd.) Overall: B $$ Tucked away behind an automotive shop on East Charleston Boulevard, Tinoco's Bistro is a hidden gem with a talented chef. The sea bass with curry-lobster sauce, mashed potatoes and spinach is incredibly good ‹ a true treat for the senses ‹ and we also liked the crabcakes with red-pepper sauce and creamy tomato-artichoke soup. (5/18/01)
TRUMPETS Anthem Center, 2450 Hampton Road, Henderson; 614-5858 Overall: B+ $$$ There was a little bit of confusion regarding some of the dishes on Trumpets' menu, but confusion aside, the kitchen knows what it's doing. The Gorgonzola ravioli, sesame-crusted ahi tuna, beef tenderloin and chocolate "bomb" were all top-notch. Worthy of note: This kitchen knows how to create winning vinaigrettes. (11/24/00)
THE VERANDAH Four Seasons, 3960 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 632-5000 Overall: A $$$ What drew us to The Verandah was the novel idea of a $28 prix-fixe menu
WILD SAGE CAFE 600 E. Warm Springs Road; 944-7243 Overall: A- $$$ Wild Sage Cafe hasn't gotten the attention of a lot of restaurants in its class and that's a shame, because Wild Sage exemplifies the culinary rebirth of Las Vegas. House-smoked salmon on a potato galette, Southwestern tomato soup, a spinach salad with carmelized nuts, eggplant with roasted vegetables and especially a lime tart were all worthy of note. (3/16/01)
Seafood
AQUA Bellagio, 3600 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 693-7111 Overall: A- $$$$ Despite a bland vanilla interior decor, Aqua is anything but colorless. There's real innovation with seafood here, manifested in dishes such as terrine of smoked salmon, roasted artichoke and lobster soup with lobster flan, pave of northern halibut and medallions of ahi tuna with fois gras. And the lemon souffle with raspberry creme anglaise was perfect. (4/20/01)
COSTA DEL SOL Sunset Station, 1301 W. Sunset Road, Henderson; 547-7777 Overall: B $$$ The degree of innovation in Costa del Sol's seafood offerings is impressive. Especially well-executed were tempura lobster tails, crab-stuffed oysters Florentine, coconut Chilean sea bass, and Indonesian shrimp, lobster and beef satays. A slice of linzertorte was far more forgettable. (7/21/00)
McCORMICK & SCHMICK'S 335 Hughes Center Drive; 836-9000 Overall: B $$$ We weren't real pleased when McCormick & Schmick's seated us 36 minutes past our reservation, but at least we liked most of the food. The trout almondine was wonderful, the stone crab and lobster sweet and succulent. But go only if, like many of the conferees who frequent the place, you have plenty of time. (2/16/01)
SACRED SEA ROOM Luxor, 3900 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 262-4000 Overall: B- $$$$ The Sacred Sea Room cut a few more corners than they should at these prices, but there was a lot to like there ‹ such as a starter of sauteed jumbo prawns, fresh and flaky Chilean sea bass and bang-up sourdough bread. And the room, with its tile mosaics and Egyptian-style accents, is nothing short of gorgeous. (3/15/02)
THE TILLERMAN 2245 E. Flamingo Road; 731-4036 Overall: A- $$$ With a name like this, you'd expect The Tillerman to have good seafood, and if the trout almondine we sampled is any indication, it does. Garlic mashed potatoes were surprisingly wimpy, but an appetizer of blackened tenderloin medallions packed a prodigious punch. We also liked the restaurant's interior, with six big live ficus trees stretching toward the slide-open roof. (5/26/00)
Southwestern
Z'TEJAS 3824 Paradise Road; 732-1660 Overall: A $$ Z'Tejas has one of the most interesting menus we've seen in a while
Steakhouses
BOB TAYLOR'S RANCH HOUSE 6250 Rio Vista St.; 645-1399 Overall: B- $$$ Here's a taste of Old Las Vegas: Bob Taylor's Ranch House has been remodeled since it opened in 1955, but much of the decor remains old-timey charming. The grill on the edge of the dining room was burning mesquite on the evening of our visit, lending a slightly sweet flavor to our filet mignon and smoked prime rib. There were some misses among the hits, but not when it came to the beef. (11/17/00)
FUEGO Fiesta Henderson, 777 W. Lake Mead Blvd.; 558-7000 Overall: B+ $$ The top-notch service-with-a-smile was one of the first things we noticed about Fuego; the subdued atmosphere was the next. But that's not to slight the food; Fuego puts in a solid performance at moderate prices and offers much more than steak. Notable were the Drunken Shrimp, French onion soup, filet mignon and coconut shrimp. (1/18/02)
PRIME STEAKHOUSE Bellagio, 3600 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 693-7223 Overall: A $$$$ Who said tourists should have all the fun? Prime offers a great way to escape from the daily drudgery and let somebody else take care of you for a while. You'll pay for it, of course
PULLMAN GRILLE Main Street Station, 200 N. Main St.; 387-1896 Overall: B $$$ Our appetizers
RUTH'S CHRIS 3900 Paradise Road; 791-7011 (also at 4561 W. Flamingo Road) Overall: A- $$$$ No doubt about it; Ruth's Chris has wonderful steaks
SMITH & WOLLENSKY 3767 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 862-4100 Overall: A- $$$$ There's a reason almost nobody makes beef Wellington anymore
THE STEAK HOUSE Circus Circus, 2880 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 734-0410 Overall: B $$$ The Steak House has been a longtime favorite of Las Vegans, and for good reason: The room is attractive in a hunt-clubby sort of way, the service is polite and attentive and the prices are well below the you-must-be-kidding level of some of the new places. And while we found a seafood appetizer to be of uneven quality, we couldn't argue with the quality of the porterhouse we had; a lobster tail and lovely creme brulee were likewise top-notch. (8/10/01)
YUKON GRILLE Arizona Charlie's, 740 S. Decatur Blvd.; 258-5200 Overall: C- $$ The Yukon Grille has a really charming Northwest-woodsy interior, our waiter was about the hardest-working one we've seen in a long time and an appetizer of shrimp scampi was really lovely, with an assertive garlic flavor with herb and butter undertones, but those things unfortunately weren't enough to save our dinner at the Yukon Grille. One of the biggest problems was that our ordered-as-rare steak turned out to be served-as medium. If they do it to you, send it back. (7/6/01)
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