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Friday, October 18, 2002 Dining Out
Dining Out features only establishments that have been reviewed by Review-Journal restaurant critic Heidi Knapp Rinella. All opinions are those of the critic, who grades the restaurant based on food, service and ambience. Our critic dines unannounced and anonymously at Review-Journal expense. Prices are based on the cost of an average entree for a single person using the following symbols: $ = entrees less than $10: $$ = entrees between $10 and $20; $$$ = entrees between $20 and $30; and $$$$ = entrees more than $30
American
BAGEL CAFE 301 N. Buffalo Drive; 255-3444 Overall: B $ We truly love Bagel Cafe's piled-up-to-here sandwiches, although we were somewhat less enthused with its dinner specials. Still, the roast chicken with rosemary was succulent, and the turkey, though cursed by a too-thin gravy, tasted like your memories of the bird your mother roasted at Thanksgiving. (8/24/01)
BUCKINGHAM SMOKEHOUSE 2341 N. Rainbow Blvd. ; 638-7799 Overall: B $ The sides were a little hit-and-miss, but barbecue's all about the meat, and oh, what meat we were served at Buckingham Smokehouse -- deeply flavored, smoke-steeped chicken, pulled pork and baby back ribs. As for the sides, we'd skip the potato salad next time, but the horseradish coleslaw, pit beans and sweet-potato fries were more hit than miss. (6/21/2002)
CENTER STAGE The Plaza, 1 Main St.; 386-2512 Overall: C $$ Center Stage has just about the best view downtown; it's a great place to see the Fremont Street Experience light show during dinner. It's got reasonable prices, as well, and you won't complain about the portion size, although the details need a little more attention. Still, we liked the Caesar salad, the filet mignon and a veal dish that was in the style of a saltimbocca. (8/3/01)
CHICAGO BREWING CO. 2201 S. Fort Apache Road; 254-3333 Overall: B+ $ Early indications had us concerned about the service at the Chicago Brewing Co. and sure enough, there was a pretty serious snafu, but you know what? They fixed it, and without us voicing a complaint. We'll go back for service like that, and also for the fantastic garlicky, yeasty Michigan Avenue Cheese Knots, the fettucine with marinara and fennel-flecked sausage and the pot roast that tasted as though it had been braised for hours (and that's a good thing). (2/15/02)
CLAIM JUMPER 1100 S. Fort Apache Road; 243-8751 Overall: B+ $$$ All everybody talks about are the huge portions, but the Claim Jumper's about more than quantity; the fire-roasted artichoke with tomato relish and roasted garlic mayonnaise is evidence of that. So are the Whiskey Chicken and the Parmesan-garlic onion rings, although the prime rib and a wedge of chocolate cheese pie were more middlin'. (11/23/01)
THE DRAFT HOUSE 4543 N. Rancho Drive; 645-1404 Overall: C+ $ The Draft House promises Midwestern hospitality, but the service is enough to make a cheesehead weep. However, said cheesehead -- or anyone else -- could find comfort in the "dining barn's" lake-fresh walleye or its bratwurst combo, a sandwich that combines a smoked bratwurst and a chicken breast. (1/4/02)
ELEMENTS Aladdin, 3667 Las Vegas Blvd. South Overall: A- $$$ Elements is a bright spot in the troubled Aladdin, with its fire-and-water theme and its accessible takes on New American stylings. Among the brightest notes: Steak tartare, pan-seared foie gras, peppered ahi, a grilled veal chop and a black-and-white souffle. (4/19/02)
EMERIL'S NEW ORLEANS FISH HOUSE MGM Grand, 3799 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 891-7374 Overall: A $$$$ The messages of some celebrity chefs may get lost in the translation as their empires expand, but that's not the case with Emeril Lagasse. His place at the MGM Grand is noisy, but not so much that customers can't focus on the food, which primarily involves creative twists on Southern/Creole/Cajun favorites. Noteworthy were a peach tart topped with seared foie gras, the far-from-the-norm Emeril's House Salad, bacon-wrapped Gulf shrimp, pan-roasted black bass and double-chocolate Grand Marnier cake with raspberry coulis. (6/28/02)
GREAT MOMENTS ROOM Las Vegas Club, 18 Fremont St.; 385-1664 Overall: C $$$ Somebody in the kitchen is trying hard and the maitre d' could give lessons to the urban-sophisticate types at the upscale joints who seem to think that condescension is a positive attribute, but too many of the dots of the Great Moments Room just aren't connected. The pork tenderloin in a fennel-garlic crust and the veal medallions vitello showed promise. (5/17/02)
HAMBURGER MARY'S 4503 Paradise Road; 735-4400 Overall: B+ $ The Blueboy Burger is fantastic, but don't get it on the Hawaiian sweet bun, which is almost guaranteed to deconstruct in the face of all of that lovely gloppiness. Hamburger Mary's is a whimsical place and its sense of humor shows in its pizza menu, but the Oscar Goodman has more to recommend it than the mushrooms marinated in gin. And while the chocolate orgasm doesn't live up to its billing, it and the fried mozzarella are well worth the price of admission. (7/26/02)
HAWAIIAN PLANTATION HOUSE 10940 S. Eastern Ave., Henderson; 990-6341 Overall: A $$$ Want to try a really different entree? Go for the Kona crab-filled salmon katsu at the Hawaiian Plantation House -- crabmeat surrounded by salmon surrounded by nori and panko, resulting in an assertively flavored riot of textural contrasts. Also worthy of note: the Maui onion, tomato and avocado salad, the sweet Maui onion soup, roasted pork prime rib and a chocolate souffle. (8/9/02)
HILLTOP HOUSE 3500 N. Rancho Drive; 645-9904 Overall: B $$ If you're looking for a blast from the past, or a piece of life in old Las Vegas in far simpler times, the Hilltop House Supper Club is a good place to look. The food's as straightforward as the streamlined menu, although the waitresses will make you feel like you're in Mom's kitchen. We liked the pan-fried chicken and the 12-to-14-ounce New York strip, and the onion rings and fried zucchini with cheese sauce were conventional enough to seem offbeat in this fusionified era. (9/28/01)
KOKOMO'S The Mirage, 3400 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 791-7111 Overall: C+ $$$$ Service was a disaster, owing to some apparent confusion about what a nonsmoking section really is and a shortage in our cash payment that was cleared up without an adequate apology. And that was a shame, really, because the food deserved far more. We liked it all, including coconut shrimp, Kansas City strip steak, wood-smoked Atlantic salmon, whipped sweet potatotes and Key lime pie. The chef deserves an apology from the service staff. (9/6/02)
LAWRY'S THE PRIME RIB 4043 Howard Hughes Parkway; 893-2223 Overall: A $$$ Lawry's is probably best loved by lovers of prime rib; that classic beef cut is the star attraction and the star of the show at Lawry's tableside carving carts. Still, the token seafood dishes are more than tokens, and the salad that's included with entrees and vegetables that aren't complete the picture of consistent quality. (12/28/01)
MIMI'S CAFE 1121 S. Fort Apache Road; 341-0365 Overall: B- $ You're likely to hear strains of "Over There" as you gaze around Mimi's Cafe's collection of French-style ephemera, but the menu is decidedly American -- which is to say well-varied, borrowing from many cultures. Worthy of note: a Thai chicken wrap, onion soup, barbecued meatloaf and hot praline bars, plus a carrot bread that's both unique and delicious. (3/9/01)
PEPPERMILL INN RESTAURANT 2985 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 735-4177 Overall: B $$ The Peppermill offers a taste of Old Vegas without the time machine. Be sure to start in the period-piece lounge, then proceed to the dining room for updated and time-warp dishes such as chicken quesadillas, a not-so-classic Classic Cobb Salad, beef tips with noodles and the Elegant Brownie, which is as much an exercise in wretched excess as the old days used to be. (8/16/02)
PIERO'S RESTAURANT 355 Convention Center Drive; 369-2305 Overall: A- $$$$ Customers may be the last to know that dinners at Piero's include a salad, but lack of full disclosure nothwithstanding, this is the real deal -- a slice of some of the best things about Old Vegas. The osso bucco has a well-deserved top-notch reputation, but we also were enamored of a spring-mix salad with goat cheese, walnuts and pear; salmon pesto; blackout cake; and the fantastic Avocado Piero. (7/19/02)
SIR GALAHAD'S Excalibur, 3850 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 597-7777 Overall: B $$$ You won't find the best prime rib in the valley at Sir Galahad's, but you won't pay prime prices for it, either. Actually, the food at Sir Galahad's is pretty good overall, and the theming is downright charming -- sort of like Cinderella's castle on steroids. If you've ever wanted to feel as though you were dining with the Knights of the Round Table, this is the place for it. (7/5/02)
STAGE DELI Forum Shops at Caesars, 3500 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 893-4045 Overall: A- $$ Whether the Stage Deli is authentic depends on your personal definition of deli, but rest assured that it's a fine spot for thickly stacked pastrami sandwiches, oh-so-sour pickles and tomatoes, homemade corned-beef hash and cheesecake that's richer than Bill Gates. But -- as is the case with any self-respecting deli -- don't expect a quiet, intimate atmosphere. (2/22/02)
Asian
AMLEE GOURMET 3827 E. Sunset Road; 898-3358 Overall: B+ $$ White Creamy Shrimp may not be your garden-variety Chinese-American restaurant entree, but it's one we'd go back for again and again, and it's part of the evidence proving that you can expect more than the usual at Amlee Gourmet. Other winners include War Won Ton Soup, Asparagus Chicken, an appetizer platter and crunchy-crusted caramelized glazed bananas. (3/8/02)
BANGKOK 9 663 N. Stephanie St., Henderson; 898-6881 Overall: B+ $ Part of Bangkok 9's appeal is Lulu, the co-owner/hostess who's a living reminder of the charm of mom-and-pop operations. But another part is the food -- including one of the best versions of Tom Ka Kai around, plus a serviceable Pad Thai and such varied offerings as Pangang Duck. The Sticky Rice a la Mode is a nice finish. (2/1/02)
THE KING & I 1107 E. Tropicana Ave. (also at 2904 Lake East Drive); 739-8819 Overall: B $ Fantastic Tom Kha Gai -- rich chicken-coconut milk soup served in a traditional hot pot -- is a great way to start a meal at the King & I, as is Chicken Satay, with a just-rich-enough peanut sauce and a palate-clearing plate of marinated cucumbers. And the traditional Pad Thai, the noodle melange that's sort of the national dish of Thailand, is much better at the King & I than at most Thai restaurants in the valley. (8/30/02)
LONG LIFE VEGE RESTAURANT 4130 S. Sandhill Road; 436-4488 Overall: A $ In a town that's rife with steakhouses and the like, Long Life Vege Restaurant is a welcome relief from the meat-and-potatoes routine. The emphasis is on dishes built around seafood and wheat-and-soy substitutes for chicken, pork and beef. We liked everything we had -- honey walnut prawns, vegetable spring rolls, seafood pot stickers, green and fresh asparagus and egg-flower soup. (5/24/02)
PROMMARES THAI FOOD 6362 W. Sahara Ave.; 221-9644 Overall: B $ You won't want to judge a book by its cover if you decide to stop by Prommares Thai Food: The place is definitely on the plain side, but the food more than makes up for that. We liked the tom kha kai, the silver noodle soup, the pad Thai and the spicy fried rice. But you might want to ask for the pad Thai to be more spicy and the spicy fried rice less so. (9/14/01)
TODAI Desert Passage, 3663 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 892-0021 Overall: B $$ They're flocking into Todai these days, and with good reason: Todai is a celebration of most well-known aspects of Japanese food, served up in astonishing abundance. The sushi, for example, is offered in numerous commonly and not-so-commonly found varieties, with the latter rotated frequently. And the fresh fruits and vegetables -- which tend to get short shrift on most buffets -- are divine, such as coconut-flecked asparagus with orange sauce and flavor-packed fresh oranges that have been artfully sectioned. (8/2/02)
TSUNAMI ASIAN GRILL Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian, 3355 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 414-1980 Overall: A- $$ Tsunami's chefs clearly have fun with food, and it shows in dishes such as coconut-milk-infused lobster bisque, garlic-and-sake-steamed mussels, 11-spiced seared ahi and a Bento Box of tiny jewel-like desserts. For even more fun, consider a Sushi Infusion Shootini -- more beverage than food, and plenty interesting. (8/22/02)
Ethnic miscellaneous
BAHAMA BREEZE 375 Hughes Center Drive; 731-3252 Overall: A- $$ OK, the food at Bahama Breeze isn't exactly what we would call authentic Caribbean, but sometimes that's not a bad thing. We like the fact that the restaurant offers full- and half-order options on many of its entrees. Even more, we liked the fusionistic tostones con pollo as a starter and entrees of coconut curry chicken and Bahamian kabobs, both of which were seasoned subtly but soulfully. Jose's Chocolate Tres Leches was a rich finish. (10/12/01)
CAFE HEIDELBERG 604 E. Sahara Ave.; 731-5310 Overall: B+ $$ Cafe Heidelberg has all of the usual German favorites and a couple of the more offbeat as well. A case in point is Leberkaese, a pork-and-veal-loaf peasant dish served topped with a fried egg. Wienerschnitzel's offered two ways -- with veal or pork -- and the veal version was delicate, light, perfect. Spaetzel, bread dumplings and red cabbage were tasty as well, but next time, we'd skip the soggy strudel. (4/13/01)
FLORIDA CAFE 1401 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 385-3013 Overall: B- $ While various ethnic cuisines have been gaining ground in Las Vegas, Cuban has been somewhat under-represented. If you haven't discovered it yet, consider Florida Cafe, where classic favorites include the earthily seasoned shredded-beef ropa vieja, thin and tender bistec de Palomilla, crisp fried green plantains, sausage sautéed with onion, and a rich, creamy flan. (6/15/01)
GOULASH POT 6135 W. Sahara Ave.; 253-7378 Overall: B- $ Not all of the dishes at the Goulash Pot reflected the rich, complex flavors of fine Hungarian cuisine, but among those that came close were the World Famous Goulash Pot and the Veal Gulyas, the latter with lovely, delicate little dumplings. The apricot and raspberry crepes were a tasty throwback, but next time we'd tell them to hold the chocolate sauce. (12/14/01)
INDIA OVEN 226 W. Sahara Ave.; 366-0222 Overall: B+ $$ India Oven may not look like much from the outside, but inside is a world of wonderfully complex, intricately melded flavors, from the pakora and samosa appetizers to the kulfi ice cream, with tandoori chicken, lamb korma and cinnamon- and cardamom-flavored rice in between. Don't miss the featherlight naan bread, baked in the tandoor oven. (3/2/01)
KITCHEN CAFE 4950 W. Flamingo Road; 222-0880 Overall: B+ $$ Extra touches with old favorites are what helps separate Kitchen Cafe from the pack. We loved the extra portion of cinnamon- and honey-infused syrup that topped the baklava, the avgolemono sauce that topped the warm stuffed grape leaves, and yeomanlike renderings of saganaki, moussaka and, to a somewhat lesser extent, pastitsio. Opa! (11/9/01)
MARRAKECH 3900 Paradise Road; 737-5611 Overall: B $$$$ Marrakech certainly has a novel premise. Everybody eats the same six-course dinner, and they do it at low benches and tables, with Moroccan rugs on the walls and periodic entertainment by belly dancers. But novelty is no substitute for good food, and Marrakech has plenty of the latter -- including a wonderfully garlicky shrimp scampi, great hummus and marinated vegetables, and a flaky and fruity pastilla for dessert. (5/11/01)
RESTAURANT ELISEEVSKY 4825 W. Flamingo Road; 247-8766 Overall: B+ $$ A bit of Russian chauvinism and a wine list we'd just as soon skip notwithstanding, Restaurant Eliseevsky does a lot to dispel the notion that Russian cusine is an oxymoron. Dishes we'd try again: the Streletz's Plate (marinated vegetables) and Julienne (creamy mushrooms) appetizers, and, for entrees, the Salmon Matron and a beef Stroganoff such as you've probably not experienced before. Even the stuffed prunes -- the Nutcracker -- were laudable. (4/12/02)
RINCON DE BUENOS AIRES 5300 Spring Mountain Road; 257-3331 Overall: B- $ Argentine food generally means beef, and at Rincon de Buenos Aires, it means good beef. The beef we sampled was the Entrana, a 12-ounce skirt steak that was tender and flavorful by itself, even better with the addition of the restaurant's chimichurri condiment. Also tasty: the Milanese-style chicken cutlet with eggs, the chorizo, ham-and-cheese empanada and flan with dulce de leche. (7/20/01) SWISS CAFE 3175 E. Tropicana Ave.; 454-2270 Overall: A- $$ The Swiss Cafe's menu is as diverse as the culture of Switzerland, with a few traditionally Swiss dishes and some that are German, French or American for good measure. Particularly noteworthy during our visit were the pate de Champagne, Sauerbraten and cherries Jubilee crepe, and we also liked the chicken chasseur crepe and Swiss onion soup. (11/16/01) French
ANDRE'S FRENCH RESTAURANT 401 S. Sixth St.; 385-5016 (also in the Monte Carlo, 3770 Las Vegas Blvd. South) Overall: A $$$$ In a town where the average restaurant has the staying power of a tourist's bankroll, Andre's has been a landmark practically since it opened in 1980. And for good reason; it's excellent, and that applies to food, atmosphere and service. We can heartily recommend the veal sweetbreads and chicken quenelles, hearts of palm salad, roasted Alaskan halibut with chervil beurre blanc, roasted Colorado rack of lamb and perfect Grand Marnier soufflé. (6/22/01)
MON AMI GABI Paris, 3655 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 946-7000 Overall: A $$$ If steak frites -- which involves a nice thin steak, as opposed to the nice thick steak favored by most Americans -- is somewhat of an acquired taste, Mon Ami Gabi is a great place to acquire it. The kitchen also knows how to turn out a super baked Brie (with crisp phyllo instead of soggy puff pastry), a great tomato salad with Maytag blue cheese and a lovely crepe Normandy. And if you're lucky, you can sit outside and watch the Strip go by. (5/4/01)
Italian
BELLA LUNA 7905 W. Sahara Ave.; 227-7900 Overall: A $$ The problem with most Italian restaurants is that there isn't much to distinguish one from the other. Not the case at Bella Luna, which has the novelty of an antipasto cart (not original, but not commonplace), a number of dishes you won't find everywhere -- maybe anywhere -- and some truly superlative gnocchi. We also liked the Chicken alla Siciliana and the strawberries with crema zabaglione. (10/19/01)
THE BOOTLEGGER BISTRO 7700 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 736-4939 Overall: B $$ Don't expect fantastic service, but the food should more than make up for it; it's the reason the Bootlegger and its forerunners have been Las Vegas institutions since 1955. The Antipasto Classico was a true Italian classic. We also liked the shrimp scampi, the Saltimbocca alla Blackie and the eggplant Parmigiana. And the little squares of bread, accompanied by sauce, that they serve before dinner are heavenly. (6/29/01)
CARRABBA'S ITALIAN GRILL 10160 S. Eastern Ave.; 990-0650 Overall: A- $$ Carrabba's Italian Grill is a chain, but it's one that's a departure from the chain tradition of homogenization -- right down to the trees on the roof and a somewhat eccentric waiter. The bruschetta's one of the best (and most generous) around, and winning entrees include the mezzaluna stuffed pasta and the sirloin Marsala with its topping of mushrooms and prosciutto. (6/8/01) FERRARO'S 5900 W. Flamingo Road; 364-5300 Overall: A Category: Italian $$$ Service was fantastic -- starting from the point when the maitre d'/manager apologized because we had been waiting at the door for all of about 15 seconds. Things only got better, especially when the food was served. We liked it all: Carpaccio Torcello, Bufala Rollatini, Vitello Saltimbocca alla Romana, gnocchi and a single cannoli. (9/13/02)
MAMA JO'S ITALIAN BISTRO 8427 W. Lake Mead Blvd; 869-8099 Overall: B $$ Mama Jo's menu is pretty basic, but this Tuscan-colored spot has a great marinara sauce -- the backbone of a place that serves this much Southern Italian -- and it's the kind of neighborhood restaurant we don't find as easily these days. The pasta pie, a specialty of the house, is worthy, and we like the mix-and-match pasta options and the creamy cannoli. (3/29/02)
NORA'S CUISINE 6020 W. Flamingo Road; 365-6713 Overall: A- $$ Nora's Cuisine is a clamorous kind of place, but that's part of its charm; you'll feel like you're in the Little Italy of your memory. Service is top-notch, from a greeter/manager who deftly shuffles customers to an assistant waitress who whispers reheating instructions for leftovers. Worthy offerings: antipasto salad, stuffed arthichokes, pork tenderloin alla Siciliana, fettucine alla Carbonara, warm Valhrona chocolate cake. (5/3/02)
STEFANO'S Golden Nugget, 129 Fremont St.; 385-7111 Overall: A- $$$ Stefano's is kind of tucked away in a spot where it's easily forgotten, but that would be a mistake; this place is attractive and charming (with waiters who sing the songs you heard on Ed Sullivan) and the food is grand. We can recommend the cold antipasti, stracciatella, pappardelle carbonara, balsamic-glazed chicken and berries with custard sauce. (1/11/02)
Mexican
BORDER GRILL Mandalay Bay, 3950 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 632-7403 Overall: A $$ Try to get to Border Grill when we're enjoying a spurt of lovely fall (or spring) weather, because the patio overlooking the grill is one of the most pleasant places in the city to dine. We loved the spiffed-up Mexican food, including green corn tamales, plantain empanadas, Tecata Carnitas, grilled skirt steak and mocha tres leches. (10/20/02)
COYOTES MEXICAN CAFE & CANTINA 4350 E. Sunset Road, Henderson; 458-3739 Overall: B $$ "Authentic" Mexican is in the eye of the beholder so we won't make any judgment on that, but we will say the food at Coyotes was mighty tasty, and that it's a comfortable, attractive place. Noteworthy: The Quesadilla Rellena and guacamole to start, entrees of arroz con pollo and Relleno de Camarones, finishing with a flourish with some puffy (and huge) sopaipillas. (8/2/02)
DONA MARIA TAMALES 910 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 382-6538 (also at 3205 N. Tenaya Way) Overall: B+ $$ Dona Maria Tamales is the real deal; if you don't believe us, just ask some of the fans gathered for Wednesday night futbol. Featherlight tamales are the specialty of the house and the cheese version was oozy and just spicy enough, its mildly spiced pork counterpart succulent. And on a return visit, we'd be sure not to miss the queso fundido con chorizo. (12/21/01)
GARDUNO'S Palms, 4321 W. Flamingo Road; 942-777 (also at the Fiesta, 2400 N. Rancho Drive) Overall: B $$ Garduño's is a nontraditional kind of Mexican place, which just makes it more interesting. The guacamole tableside was far more than a gimmick, with a fantastic rich creaminess. The House Roast seafood pan roast -- a delicious amalgamation of shrimp, lobster and crab in a silken broth -- was a pleasant surprise, and the stuffed filet with crab, shrimp, queso fresco and pico de gallo a nice contrast of flavors and textures. (3/1/02)
LINDO MICHOACAN 2655 E. Desert Inn Road; 735-6828 Overall: A- $$ Skip the chains; at Lindo Michoacan, you can get the stuff that's safely familiar and a nice variety of more offbeat authentic Mexican fare, served up in a colorful, pleasant atmosphere. The state of Michoacan is known for its carnitas and this is a perfect version of the braised pork, moist and tender and flavored slightly with orange. Other winners: Queso Fundido, Pollo en Estofado Estilo Doctor Francisco and, for dessert, sopapillas. (9/21/01)
TAQUERIA CANONITA Grand Canal Shoppes, 3355 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 414-3773 Overall: A- $$ Here's a little bit of a mixed metaphor: a Mexican restaurant -- which specializes in "Mexico City soul food" -- alongside The Venetian's canal. There's no confusion about Taqueria Canonita's mission, though, and that's obvious from the food, which includes a nice earthy roasted-tomato salsa, interesting barbecued corn pizza and wild mushroom empanada and truly inspired barbecued pork. (1/25/02)
WILLY & JOSE'S Sam's Town, 5111 Boulder Highway; 454-8044 Overall: B- $$ Willy & Jose's has a great concept -- part nouveau Mexican, part classic Tex-Mex -- but only the latter part lives up to its billing. High points included the tomatillo salsa served with chips as a starter, a classic combination plate that involved beef and chicken enchiladas and a beef taco and a nicely textured Kahlua flan. (3/30/01)
New American
808 Caesars Palace, 3570 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 731-7110 Overall: A $$$$ 808's got the feel of a spa but a full menu of dishes that are not for the calorie-conscious. Innovative and tasty, they include a grilled asparagus salad with goat-cheese fritter, scallops with white-truffle mashed potatoes, grilled ahi with foie gras and potato terrine, seared beef fillet with crisp sun-dried tomato polenta and a mousse of toasted macadamia nuts and coconut. (7/13/01)
AUREOLE Mandalay Bay, 3950 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 632-7777 Overall: B $$$$ Aureole's menu showed pure genius, in such creations as salmon crusted with chestnuts served on braised red cabbage with butternut-squash sauce and apple jam, or foie-gras terrine with spiced-apple puree. This obviously was the tail-end of the fall/winter menu; we're musing about what chef Charlie Palmer might try for spring and summer. (4/7/00)
CAFE NICOLLE 4760 W. Sahara Ave.; 870-7675 Overall: B $$$ The Baklava Cheesecake was a highlight, but there was much to like at Cafe Nicolle, including a filet mignon skewer, mozzarella fra diavolo and seared ahi, from a menu that manages to touch on many of the major world cuisines without losing its focus. If it's a pleasant evening, be sure to sit outdoors and enjoy it. (6/1/01)
COMMANDER'S PALACE Desert Passage, 3663 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 892-8272 Overall: A $$$$ Leave it to the Southerners to show us how it's done: Commander's Palace is gracious and then some. As for the food, we'd happily again experience the Soup 1-1-1, panroasted Gulf oysters, spinach Rockefeller, veal chop Tchoupitoulas, pecan-crusted fish and bread-pudding souffle. (4/6/01)
DRAI'S Barbary Coast, 3595 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 737-0555 Overall: A- $$$ Drai's needs a bit of polishing (the carpet needed a good cleaning when we were there, for example, although we've heard it's since been replaced), but at least the kitchen's on top of things, and we love the exotic surroundings with lots of candles that conjure memories of old Vegas. The carrot-ginger soup was awfully good, and we also liked the tomato, basil and goat cheese tart, the steak tartar, the Seven Hour Leg of Lamb and a Grand Marnier souffle. (8/31/01)
MAYFLOWER CUISINIER 4750 W. Sahara Ave.; 870-8432 Overall: A- $$$ If it's one-from-column-A Asian you want, skip Mayflower Cuisinier; this is fusion innovation at its best. Particularly impressive were the chicken potstickers and ginger-chicken ravioli (see what we mean about fusion?), pistachio-encrusted salmon with ginger-caper sauce, chocolate torte and especially the trio of creme brulee. (1/12/01)
PICASSO Bellagio, 3600 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 693-7111 Overall: A $$$$ How refreshing -- an upscale restaurant that doesn't think it has to be snooty. Especially high attention to detail meant that nearly everything we tried was fantastic, including warm quail salad, poached oysters, seafood boudin, medallions of fallow deer and slow-roasted prime short ribs. Desserts were innovative and delicious. (7/28/00)
RENOIR The Mirage, 3400 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 791-7111 Overall: A $$$$ Renoir was a work of art, in almost all senses of the word. Particularly noteworthy were the roasted breast of pheasant with foie gras, potato and artichoke confit, pancetta-wrapped veal tenderloin and tiny little lemon-almond macaroons served as a lagniappe. Service can be a little pretentious, but at least it's not snobby. Be prepared, however, to spend big bucks -- bucketsful of bucks. (3/17/00)
TINOCO'S BISTRO 1756 E. Charleston Blvd.; 678-6811 (also at 4485 S. Jones Blvd.) Overall: B $$ Tucked away behind an automotive shop on East Charleston Boulevard, Tinoco's Bistro is a hidden gem with a talented chef. The sea bass with curry-lobster sauce, mashed potatoes and spinach is incredibly good -- a true treat for the senses -- and we also liked the crabcakes with red-pepper sauce and creamy tomato-artichoke soup. (5/18/01)
THE VERANDAH Four Seasons, 3960 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 632-5000 Overall: A $$$ What drew us to The Verandah was the novel idea of a $28 prix-fixe menu -- in a Four Seasons, no less -- but there's plenty to like even if you're not a bargain hunter, such as the impeccable service and the honey-vanilla balsamic vinegar served with the bread. We also liked the feature-of-the-month (which in October was pumpkin) and the duck confit and pumpkin risotto, maple-glazed pheasant breast, grilled shrimp risotto with basil sauce and cinnamon shortcrust with carmelized pumpkin cream and cranberry confit. (11/2/01)
WILD SAGE CAFE 600 E. Warm Springs Road; 944-7243 Overall: A- $$$ Wild Sage Cafe hasn't gotten the attention of a lot of restaurants in its class and that's a shame, because Wild Sage exemplifies the culinary rebirth of Las Vegas. House-smoked salmon on a potato galette, Southwestern tomato soup, a spinach salad with carmelized nuts, eggplant with roasted vegetables and especially a lime tart were all worthy of note. (3/16/01)
Seafood
EMERIL'S NEW ORLEANS FISH HOUSE MGM Grand, 3799 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 891-7374 O |
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