Monday, October 25, 2004
Copyright © Las Vegas Review-Journal

BACK IN STYLE: Heating Up

Retro styles, technological advances spark new interest in fur

CORRECTION -- 10/30/04
A story in Monday's Style section incorrectly stated that harp seals are no longer being killed for fur. While it is illegal to buy harp-seal pelts in the United States, the Canadian government has allowed the killing of the seals. Their pelts generally go to the Eastern European market.

This Adrienne Landau dyed fox evening jacket is $4,195 at Neiman Marcus at the Fashion Show mall. Among the most popular furs today is the super-soft chinchilla, which was used in this one-armed stole from Neiman Marcus Private Label, which sells for $10,500. The Ferraud natural mink coat, $11,500 (left), and Sorbara natural sable-trimmed evening wrap, $8,000, both are available at Neiman Marcus. Retro furs are seeing a resurgence today, as in this natural broadtail jacket, trimmed in natural chinchilla, which sells for $12,500. Another retro look is this racoon jacket from Dolce & Gabbana that sells for $7,950 at Neiman Marcus. Photos by Craig L. Moran.

Remember the days when fur fans left their coats in storage rather than risk an encounter with a spray-paint-wielding attacker? How things have changed. Vault doors are clanging open across the country. Fur is back -- and in a big way.

"Fur is the must-have item this year," said Roger Martinez, public-relations manager at Neiman Marcus at the Fashion Show mall.

Martinez considered for a moment further, and then added: "It is the single most important fashion statement you'll be making this fall."

Not convinced? Take a look at the numbers: After a sharp fall in the '90s, sales have increased each year since 1999 -- to a record $1.8 billion in 2003, a jump of 7.5 percent from the year before, according to the Fur Information Council of America.

Fur is becoming more visible, as well. While there are holdouts, several stars have returned to the fur fold. Cindy Crawford recently was named spokeswoman for Blackglama, which is on the upper tier of an already high-end business, and London's Daily Express reported that Naomi Campbell and Claudia Schiffer are among those who, "contrary to previously expressed views, have been seen in fur."

Why the switch?

"It became much more acceptable once it again became a fashion statement," Martinez said.

There also has been a shift in the national psyche.

"This year we've gotten very nostalgic," favoring "anything that has the feel of coming from Grandma's attic -- discovering Grandma's trunk that had some of her best clothes, brooches, etc.," Martinez said. "Fur falls very much in that category."

There's a particular appeal, he said, to "anyone who grew up on `I Love Lucy' reruns. Lucy was always saying she wanted a new stole."

There has been a shift in industry philosophy, as well. You probably won't find anyone clubbing baby harp seals to create a fur coat.

"Everything that we use is either plentiful in supply, or a ranch-raised animal," Martinez said. "There is nothing that is endangered, ever. We wouldn't be permitted to in this day and age, which is good."

Many of today's fur styles harken back to their forebears in the '40s and '50s.

"There are a lot of the great old standard classics," Martinez said. "A lot of mink. Mink for a lot of years had gone away. People were more interested in fox. Mink is back, because mink has that nostalgic retro look to it. Dyed fox is always great; fox is just all-around a wonderful fur. I love Persian lamb; Persian lamb is a very retro thing. Sable is the epitome of fur."

Also popular, he said, is raccoon, for the ultimate in retro.

And the fur is being cut and sewn into all shapes and styles.

"You're seeing everything -- from the full jackets and coats and that sort of thing, and just wonderful layer-on details, like the little wraps for your neck," Martinez said. "Collars, very retro-looking stoles. You can have it hanging off one shoulder, but take a good brooch and put it on, for a very nostalgic '50s look to it. There are a lot of classic looks that you have just not seen for so long. It's taken a while to go back and re-examine those looks."

Or not. For years, manufacturers worked to create faux fur that resembled the real thing as much as possible. Now, it seems almost the opposite is true, as furriers take a playful approach.

"They've taken great strides in technology -- more interesting colors," Martinez said. "Very, very hot, vibrant colors that are not typical: chartreuses, purple. Technology has allowed furs to go places it couldn't back then."

The technological changes extend to more than just color. Some manufacturers are, for example, knitting fur.

"There are some very beautiful, interesting garments made with this technique," Martinez said. "If you ever feel one of those, you'll just fall in love with it. Ponchos -- hooded sweatshirts, believe it or not. Oh my God, I wanted this thing so bad. It was phenomenal. It almost had a chenille effect. It's a beautiful, beautiful technique."

Another change in the fur world is its relative accessibility, with some prices dropping into the range formerly reserved for faux. Midrange retailers are offering such items as rabbit coats for $219, stoles for $164, scarves for $99.

Martinez said furs are appearing in nearly all price ranges. "There was a time when $70,000 sables were accepted, almost." But among the fur fashions featured here, $12,500 was the most expensive. "And it was a pretty impressive fur. Down in the $1,000 range, there are great fashion pieces and incredible good quality."

Martinez said rex rabbit, specially bred for fur garments and frequently mistaken for chinchilla, often is seen for $900 or less.

"They're like a little jacket," he said of the garment. "They almost have that Mrs. Robinson look from `The Graduate,' that sort of decadent look. Throw it on with a leopard skirt; it is so hot."

A bit of fur on a garment also helps stretch those scarce clothing dollars. "I just saw, for $75, pins that are little tufts of fur," Martinez said.

"There are a lot of things with fur trim on them," he added. "You're seeing it on sweaters. You're seeing it everywhere now."

Not that you couldn't wear your fur to, say, a sushi bar.

"One of the best ways to wear a fur is to just throw it on with jeans," Martinez said. "Don't treat it too precious. Wear it with your everyday wear."