Wednesday, March 23, 2005
Copyright © Las Vegas Review-Journal

APPETIZERS: Jean-Philippe Patisserie serves more than just dessert

Jean-Philippe Patisserie at Bellagio features the work of award-winning pastry chef Jean-Philippe Maury. Photo by Clint Karlsen. Some of the pastries offered at Jean-Philippe Patisserie. Photo by Clint Karlsen. Jean-Philippe Maury displays his pastry creations at his Bellagio shop, Jean-Philippe Patisserie. Photo by Clint Karlsen.

Seven years ago when Jean-Philippe Maury came to Las Vegas for a job as pastry chef at the Bellagio, he was unable to speak English and had never worked in a hotel environment before.

Today, Maury, who led the U.S. pastry team to a world championship, is the force behind Jean-Philippe Patisserie at the Bellagio, 3600 Las Vegas Blvd. South. And he's fluent in English, too.

Besides serving 26 different creative pastries, plus gelato and sorbets, the Patisserie also offers hot and cold sandwiches, salads and a variety of beverages.

Currently, the shop, located near the Bellagio Conservatory and new spa tower, sports a large Easter bunny made, over a period of three weeks, with 190 pounds of chocolate. It also features what's billed as the world's largest chocolate fountain.

It's all an attempt to "bring some fresh blood to the town, something exciting for the pastry world," says Maury, who frequently is treated like a celebrity by customers, posing for pictures and giving autographs.

Maury says the Patisserie uses top-quality ingredients and everything is made from scratch.

"It doesn't matter what you do, but you have to be consistent," he says.

The Patisserie, open daily from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m., does a lot of walk-up, take-out business, but it also has seating inside for those who want to dine in.

• Salads: Antipasto salad with zucchini, squash, mozzarella, red pepper, salami, tomatoes, arugula and radicchio; crab salad with crab, papaya, mango, tomatoes, cabbage, romaine and citrus vinaigrette; and Asian salad with soba noodles, chicken, snow peas, carrots, daikon, orange and peanut dressing ($9.50 each); and Caesar salad ($8).

• Sandwiches: Cold sandwiches include roasted turkey on a croissant with roasted turkey, butter emulsion, alfalfa sprouts, tomato and cranberry relish; smoked salmon with dill brioche, smoked salmon, caper dill cream cheese, daikon sprouts, boiled egg, red onions and chives; roast beef on a ciabattina square with horseradish sour cream, watercress, tomato, red onion and whole grain mustard; and ham and Swiss cheese, lettuce, tomato, mayonnaise and grain mustard ($9 each).

Panini sandwiches include prosciutto with basil, cured Italian ham, tomato and mozzarella; basil aioli chicken with garlic mayonnaise, mushroom, tomato, caramelized onion and fontina cheese; and spiced tomato grilled chicken with Swiss cheese, tomato and spiced tomato sauce ($9 each).

Savory crepes include the Royal, with sauteed mushrooms, grilled chicken, bacon and cheddar; the Forest, with ham, mushrooms, eggs and cheese; the vegetarian with sauteed vegetables and Swiss cheese; and roasted turkey with spinach gratin and parmesan cheese ($9.50 each).

• Extras: Breakfast items include ham and cheese croissant ($5.50); breakfast panini ($9); yogurt parfait ($7.50); and mixed fresh fruits ($7.50).

• Desserts: Sweet crepes include sugar with vanilla, lemon or cinnamon ($4.50); fruity, a choice of fruit jam and whipped cream ($5.95); berry with a mix of marinated berries and whipped cream ($6.95); Nutella with whipped cream ($6.95); Bananas foster with caramelized bananas and whipped cream ($6.95); exotic with caramelized pineapple, mango passion and coconut sorbet ($7.50); and souffle with vanilla cream and choice of fruit mix ($8.50).

Individual pastries are ($5.50).

Cookies ($3); biscotti ($1.50); Madeleine ($1.50); coconut macaroon ($1.50); Rice Krispy treat ($3.50); and French macaroons ($1.50).

Appetizers is a weekly informational column about new developments on the Las Vegas dining scene. Items should not be considered reviews or recommendations and none is a paid advertisement.