The centerpiece of L'Atelier Joël Robuchon is a bar-seating dining area with a view of the action. Photo by Craig L. Moran.

So many restaurants, so little space.

It's always a difficult task to whittle the city's restaurants to my 10 favorites in a given year -- and, with the ever-higher bar boosting the quality of dining across the valley, it's a task that annually grows more daunting.

But when I think back on the restaurants I visited during 2006, I remember the mashed potatoes.

I wrote back in February that I don't know how they do it. I've since learned that the mashed potatoes at L'Atelier Joël Robuchon are hand-whipped, which explains the ethereal texture but not the otherworldly flavor of these special spuds, these terrific tubers. And they're but an indication of the quality at the restaurant across the board. It's a special-occasion place for most of us, but oh, how special.

This year's list includes only restaurants I visited, on the job, during 2006. Three of them are at Wynn Las Vegas; that's indicative of the degree of dedication to quality I've seen in that resort's restaurants. And not all of them are as blow-the-rent as you may think.

Which brings me to the more downscale members of this list: I evaluate each restaurant on its own merits, and what all of these on this list have in common is this: They're absolutely excellent at what they do.

1. L'ATELIER JOËL ROBUCHON, MGM Grand -- The resort reports that the average check is about $125 per person, which puts it in the birthday/anniversary -- or expense-account -- category. But what a way to spend $125.

2. ALEX, Wynn Las Vegas -- Chef Alex Stratta's food is constantly evolving, continually surprising. Add a gorgeous room and flawless but friendly service, and the sum total is an evening you'll long remember.

3. BARTOLOTTA RISTORANTE DI MARE, Wynn Las Vegas -- Fish has rarely smelled -- or tasted -- so sublime. And it's brought in from the Mediterranean.

4. ALIZE, the Palms -- Chef Andre Rochat's dedication to perfection, and with an incomparable view. What more could you ask?

5. RESTAURANT RM, Mandalay Bay -- Chef Rick Moonen's creative combinations are among his strengths -- as evidenced by barramundi with lime creme fraiche orzo, and swordfish with figs.

6. DANIEL BOULUD BRASSERIE, Wynn Las Vegas -- The best brasserie food is simple in nature, and this brasserie does the best better, as in the best roast chicken I've ever eaten. Ever.

7. ORIGIN INDIA -- That this restaurant's roots are in London means you'll get an expatriate's view of things, but the interpretations are fine with us when even the tandoori chicken is this good. (And there is much for vegetarians, who nearly starve in this meat-focused town.)

8. KHOURY'S MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT -- Go for the mezze, Lebanese little dishes of many flavors, textures and colors, but stay for the sangria, and more.

9. TRULY YOURS -- The skills of the Swiss chef/owner show in his classic but creative menu, a pleasant surprise that's matched only by the shockingly low prices.

10. THE CRACKED EGG -- Impressive attention to detail is obvious in every aspect of the operation, including the never-miss breakfasts. (There are two locations; I tried the one on Cheyenne Avenue.)