Roberta's is a white-tablecloth steakhouse off the casino at the El Cortez in downtown Las Vegas. Photo by Samantha Clemens.

Especially when it comes to food, I'm definitely not the type to pine for the good old days. Nostalgia can be fun -- and a lot of truly great meatloaf came out of '50s kitchens -- but I'm sufficiently long in the tooth to remember when Chef Boyardee pizza and Chun King chop suey were in some circles considered exotic foods.

And of course I'm in a position to enjoy the bounty that the booming restaurant evolution has brought to Our Fair City. With the world's leading chefs opening up shop cheek-by-jowl and within a quick commute of the entire valley -- and the inspiration and training they provide bleeding over into the buffets and the suburbs -- we all stand to benefit.

But once in a while a taste of Old Vegas can be refreshing, especially in terms of the pocketbook. It's true that the adage of you-get-what-you-pay-for especially applies when it comes to food, and it's also worth noting that we're reportedly paying less for food, as a percentage of income, than at any time in modern history. Still, the Strip sticker shock can be ... well, a little shocking.

Which brings me to the $15.95 prime rib at Roberta's at the venerable El Cortez.

Now, before you protest that $15.95 isn't in the Old Vegas league of, say, the $5.95 specials, know that this was one heck of a bargain. First of all, the total absence of menu hyperbole notwithstanding, it was the size of a small roast, I'm guessing 2, 2 1/2 inches thick, and broad, cut from what was clearly a large rib roast. It was also almost solid meat, with just enough fat.

It was served perfectly rare, just as I'd ordered, which for some reason is rare in itself when it comes to prime rib. Best of all, it was quite nice, tender and flavorful to boot.

And when I asked our server if Roberta's had any creamy horseradish, she immediately said, "I can make some." That may not have been a major feat, but her willingness to make the extra effort was gratifying.

Then there were the king crab legs. Considering most of Roberta's prices, my friend figured, the "market price" might be within reason, and so she asked. In this case, $29.95 seemed like a pretty good deal, all things considered. What we didn't expect is that she would be served five or six legs that were large even for king crab, and that they would be completely split into 10 or 12 halves, which made them extremely easy to eat. That the crab was fresh and sweet and cooked just right and served with a cup of honest-to-God clarified butter sealed the value.

Oh, and entrees at Roberta's include soup or salad, rolls and a choice of potato. The soup and salad were the weakest links of the evening, the latter a mundane mix of greens, the former a meatball soup that may have been homemade but only if its creator was trying to emulate Campbell's.

The rolls were better -- pretty decent little hard rolls, two of them crusted with cheese, and lots of butter. Mashed potatoes and a baked potato were just fine. Lightly steamed slender carrots, the tops still on, also accompanied our entrees.

Our starters were pretty successful as well -- a shrimp cocktail ($7.95) composed of four large prawns that were just firm enough and accompanied by a medium-spicy cocktail sauce, and barbecued ribs ($7.95) that were larger than the baby backs that were billed and not real smoky, but meaty and tender, with a sauce that had a subtle, haunting note of what tasted like star anise.

We ended it all with house specialty peaches and cream ($4.95), which was brandied peaches with ice cream and whipped topping.

Service throughout was excellent. Our waitress was pleasant, efficient and, as I said earlier, seemingly happy to respond to our every whim, and her assistant was also friendly and Johnny-on-the-Spot when it came to clearing dishes, refilling beverages, etc.

Which brings to mind one other weak spot: the wine list. Let's just say it's best not to expect much, although the alcohol-free sparkling-wine option was a nice touch, and the prices were certainly low.

And, now, to address the question that's been in the back (or front) of your mind: Isn't the El Cortez a little down about the heels? And isn't that section of Fremont Street a little dicey?

No, and no. No less a downtown booster than Mayor Oscar Goodman recently commented that the current permutation of the El Cortez is considerably cleaned-up. And while sections of Fremont may have their problems, we did feel comfortable there.

Comfortable, and rather satisfied.

Las Vegas Review-Journal reviews are done anonymously at Review-Journal expense. Contact Heidi Knapp Rinella at 383-0474 or e-mail her at hrinella@ reviewjournal.com.