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Feb. 21, 2007
Copyright © Las Vegas Review-Journal


WINE OF THE WEEK: Little wine offers perfect taste

The Maremma region of Tuscany, Italy, challenges winemakers with its rugged, hilly landscape. But its proximity to the Tyrrhenian Sea presents a moderating marine influence, which is vital for producing wines of distinction.

It is no wonder then that such illustrious producers as Antinori and Gaja have set up shop there, because the wines are becoming known as "Super-Meds," referring to the proximity to the sea as well as a play on the already famous Super Tuscans.

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Poggio Roggettone is a classy wine made by the small Podere Aia della Macina in the heart of the region. This is a hot little deal -- less than $10 -- on a great wine from Italy's current superstar region.

In the glass, Poggio Roggettone Morellino di Scansano is a deep blood-ruby-red color with a dense semi-opaque core going out into a fine light reddish-violet rim definition with medium-high viscosity.

On the nose, the wine exudes ripe crushed black fruit character with a soft underlying "buttery" streak, ripe black cherries, violet pastilles, molten licorice, spice box, tobacco and clean earth-driven minerals with just a hint of wood references.

In the mouth, the wine is rich and vibrant with loads of crushed black fruits, cherries jubilee, phenolic compounds, black currant juice, huckleberry sauce, red raspberry sorbet, herbs and spices, minerals and hints of violets. The midpalate is just clean, bright fruit all the way through to the well-balanced and supple finish that lingers with more crushed red cherry character, hints of chalk and stone ground cherries.

This is a wonderfully fresh example of what can be made in the tiny Morellino di Scansano appellation, but it is traditional Tuscan winemaking through and through. This would be an excellent wine to drink with veal picatta on the more rustic side with mushrooms. It should drink well through 2008.

Wine: Poggio Roggettone Morellino di Scansano

Grapes: Sangiovese morellino (80 percent), ciliegiolo (10 percent), alicante (10 percent)

Region: Tuscany, Italy Vintage: 2005

Price: $9.99

Gil Lempert-Schwarz's wine column appears Wednesdays. Write him at P.O. Box 50749, Henderson, NV 89016-0749, or e-mail him at gil@winevegas.com.




GIL LEMPERT-SCHWARZ
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