It has been almost four years since I wrote about an Italian pinot grigio in this column. Although I taste them all the time and they are popular with American wine consumers, it is hard to find one that represents good value -- until now.

This delicious and approachable Kris Pinot Grigio sells for less than $10. That is about half the price of the market leader, Santa Margherita, but it easily blows that one away in a taste-off.

U.S. importer Winebow, under the leadership of Leonardo Locascio, is responsible for bringing this cool wine to market and it deserves applause for being such a consumer champion.

In the glass, this Kris Pinot Grigio is a light butter-yellow color with a star-bright core going out into a faint glass-clear rim definition with almost unreal high viscosity for the varietal.

On the nose, there are fresh notes of crushed white fruit from pomelo, white cranberries, stone rose, white flowers, Asian pear, and subtle hints of rose and white corn, as well as soft minerality.

In the mouth, the wine is ultrasuave with a sweetish pear and white currant entry followed by citrus rind, dried apricots, buttery anise components, no traces of wood and that lively mineral component so desirable in a pinot grigio. The midpalate is lovely and balanced, marrying the white fruit with the acidity just right, and transitions into the surprisingly long finish with a zesty key lime kick.

The crisp white wine should be served at 53 degrees Fahrenheit, and is just perfect for the in-season stone crab or oysters. It is not for keeping and should be consumed this year.

Wine: Kris Pinot Grigio delle Venezie IGT

Grape: Pinot grigio

Region: Venezie, northeastern Italy

Vintage: 2005

Price: $9.99

Gil Lempert-Schwarz's wine column appears Wednesdays. Write him at P.O. Box 50749, Henderson, NV 89016-0749, or e-mail him at gil@winevegas.com.