March is a busy month for gardeners, with trees and shrubs to plant, feed and prune. There also are weeds and bugs to zap and if that isn't enough, it is the worst month for allergy sufferers. March brings with it ideal temperatures -- high 60s and low 40s -- to work in. Around St. Patrick's Day, Jack Frost bids farewell for another season. Here are some gardening tips for March.

Flower power: Put more color in your landscape. Your nursery has many blooming annuals to consider: ageratum, amaranthus, asters, black-eyed Susan, coreopsis, cosmos, gallardia, gazania, larkspur, lisianthus, marigold, periwinkle (vinca), petunia, salvia and zinnia. Plant coleus, geranium, impatiens, nasturtium and statice in morning sun and afternoon shade. Get them in early to give them a chance to develop more blooms before the heat sets in. Annuals only do as good as the soil they grow in, so add lots of organic matter to the soil. Also work in a balanced fertilizer, as these pesky plants hit the ground on a dead run.

If you can't afford a lot of flowers, concentrate them in one or two locations to intensify the effect. These tenacious plants need an occasional shot of fertilizer to boost them along. Dress up your patio, filling containers and hanging baskets with annuals. Jim Carollo of the Angel Park Golf Course gets fabulous production out of his bloomers. He attributes it to watering under the plant.

Eternal plants: It's time to plant perennials. The beauty about perennials is you don't have to plant them every year. Consider planting asparagus fern, mums, dianthus, dusty Miller, four o'clocks, marguerite daisy, penstemon, verbena, phlox, santolina, evening primrose, Angelita daisy, Shasta daisy and summer-flowering salvia.

You need to divide the clumps every three to four years. Water thoroughly the day before to make digging easier. Dig out the entire clump and cut them in half and if it's still too large, cut those clumps in half again. Don't worry about the foliage or flowers; they will regrow. Replant one clump in the old hole and others elsewhere. For best results, mulch around clumps. Mulch conserves water and provides a long-lasting slow-release fertilizer for your plants.

America's No. 1 flower: Durable rose bushes are just about ready to raise the curtain for another fabulous show of color. Fill their tanks with a balanced rose food and if you see yellowing leaves, add iron chelates to the feeding. Look for new canes emerging from the crown. They are tender and easily wither when exposed to wind. Cover crowns with mulch to protect them. Continue to plant container roses and keep watered until they root. To encourage larger roses, remove side buds arising around the biggest flower of hybrid teas. For floribunda and grandifloras, remove the center bud of each cluster to increase flower size. Monitor your roses for an aphid invasion on newer leaves and below flower buds. To get rid of them, direct a force of water or apply insecticidal soap as directed.

Bulbs: Shop for canna, gladiolas, amaryllis, rain lily, calla, lycoris and sweet potato. These summer-blooming bulbs need a highly organic soil to generate more blooms. Look for bulbs that are large, firm and feel heavy for their size. Follow instructions when planting, because they have different requirements. Remove any frost-damaged foliage to keep bugs away. Fertilize your bulbs growing in the ground and containers twice a month.

Cactuses and succulents: In a short time, many cactuses and succulents will be in full bloom. Feed them with a shot of high-blooming fertilizer and thoroughly irrigate it into the soil. Watch for the Cactus and Succulent Society's plant sale on April 14 and 15.

Vegetables: Take advantage of the remaining cool days and plant your cool-season vegetables such as lettuce, radishes, beets, cabbage and peas. Plant warm-season vegetables such as tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, cucumber, summer squash, melon and sweet corn. Plant your beans, tomatoes, sweet corn, cucumbers, peppers and eggplants before St. Patrick's Day for better results. Wait until April to sow pumpkins, squash, cantaloupes and watermelons for better growing conditions.

Fruits: Thin fruit to increase fruit size to about 4 to 6 inches between fruit. New leaves will develop a supply of sugars to maximize the fruit in size and sweetness. Strike branches with a garden hose to knock off poorly attached fruit and finish thinning fruit to recommended spacings. Water and apply another dose of fertilizer, because trees are developing fruit buds for 2008.

Consider planting dwarf fruit trees on patios: They are fast becoming the fashion in decorative containers. They need regular feedings, frequent irrigations and they will reward you with lots of fruit. When not on display, keep the trees in plenty of sunlight to develop the fruit.

Houseplants: Longer daylight means new growth and that means they need a boost of fertilizer at least monthly. Remove any damaged foliage and repot overgrown plants to larger containers.

Shade producers: Just before spring growth, fertilize trees that are not native to the desert with a high-nitrogen fertilizer. Follow directions for the amount to add. Spread fertilizer evenly around the tree, starting from the trunk to the edge of the branches and slowly water.

Shrubs: Now is the time to plant shrubs. Consider the mature size of shrubs so you won't be continually pruning. Don't overlook cold-tender plants such as lantana, yellow bells, red bird of paradise and red fairy duster. These plants may have been hit by the frost, so you will need to remove all the frost-damaged wood.

Allergies: It's pollen season for olives and mulberries. When in bloom, direct a strong force of water at the flowers to keep pollen from becoming airborne. To prevent set, spray blooms with a fruit preventive and repeat as directed.

Frost-damaged plants: It is time to remove frost damage on plants. With a sharp knife, peel back the bark of outer stems. If it's green underneath, new growth will soon appear. If the wood beneath the bark is brown, prune it back to live wood.

Spider mite damage: Prevent mite damage on Italian cypress, juniper and pyracantha by spraying them with a strong jet of water. Water dislodges them to prevent the typical browning injury. To check for spider mites, place a white sheet of paper under browning needles or leaves and tap branches sharply. Dislodged mites appear on paper as dustlike particles on the move. Continue jetting water periodically. Or use soap sprays: Mix 2 tablespoons of liquid dishwashing detergent in a gallon of water. Apply sprays to infested plants weekly or as needed.

Linn Mills writes a gardening column each Thursday. You can reach him at linn.mills@lvspringspreserve.org or at the Gardens at the Springs Preserve at 822-8325.