If you have not pruned your roses yet, then you are behind. Most experts recommend that this chore should be accomplished by President's Day and no later than the beginning of March. If you are hesitant about how to do it, then relax, as it is pretty simple.

Take a good look at the rose shrub and try to visualize where each major stem or cane emerges from the stubby trunk. Now, identify the older canes by comparing the bark on each stem. Older canes will have a thick bark on them, while newer canes will be slick and dark green or often purplish in color. Start by removing the older canes that might be broken, damaged or appear to have any disease cankers on them. Next, remove any canes that are crossing back into the bush, along with any weak, spindly canes.

The remaining canes will be mostly the young, vigorous canes with little bark on them. Remove all but three to seven canes depending on the age of the plant. If possible, the canes should be arranged like an open wine glass arching away from each other. This will allow ample room for sunlight to enter between the stems and allow space for growth.

The remaining canes can be trimmed to the desired length. Some people like to leave them fairly long, like knee high. Others tend to prune them considerably lower. It is really a matter of personal preference. If unsure, prune the canes the same length as the handles on your lopper. This is an easy gauge as you have them right there. Prune the cane at an angle, preferably with a bud facing away from the interior of the plant. This will allow the bud to develop away from the plant. Remember that roses bloom on new wood, so we want to encourage lots of new shoot production.

While you have your tools out of the garage, check the other plants in the landscape. Cut back lantana and other soft plants that were knocked down by the hard freeze we had this winter. Do not be timid in this department -- cut them back to within a few inches of the soil line for best results. Trust that they will recover.

Larger shrubs like Texas Rangers should be pruned at this time as well. Most people prune these desert shrubs with hedge shears. This tool was intended for boxwoods and other plants that lend themselves to a formal look. Using hedge shears on a Texas Ranger is like shearing an Old English sheepdog to look like a French poodle. There are several alternatives to pruning with shears. Using a saw or a pair of loppers, remove one-third of the largest stems. Prune them hard, right down to within 6 to 8 inches from the ground. On the remaining two-thirds of the stems, prune each back about one-third or one-eighth. Try to cut back to a new branchlet to take the lead, but do not dwell on it.

Next year, follow the same procedure removing one-third of the largest stems. Repeat the third year and now you have completely rejuvenated the shrub over a three-year period. This is an easy way to informally prune desert shrubs without ruining the natural shape. And you will be amazed at how many more flowers you will have come summer time.

This process can be used on virtually any leafy desert plant, including cassia, fairy duster and Texas yellow bells. Do not prune cassias until flowering has ceased, or until the danger of frost is past.

Dennis Swartzell is the marketing director for Mountain States Wholesale Nursery. As an ISA board-certified master arborist and a member of the American Society of Consulting Arborists, Swartzell has been helping Southern Nevadans with their gardening questions for over 20 years. If you have a question about a particular plant, or a general gardening issue, send them to Swartzell at href=treemender@cox.net.