Aside from corned beef and cabbage -- and, tragically, that green beer on St. Patrick's Day -- few foods are as closely identified with our idea of the traditional Irish diet as the potato.
Declan McGettigan, director of food and beverage at J.W. Marriott and a native of Ireland, said that's because the tuber and the Emerald Isle just seem to have a natural affinity. Introduced to Ireland during the 17th century, the potato quickly became a dietary staple because, like most root vegetables, it was easy to grow in the peat-rich soil. And the fact that it could be exported to the English market, he said, represented some economic relief for Irish peasant farmers.
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As the potato went, so went Ireland; McGettigan said the population shot up during this period, from 1 million in the 1500s to 8 million by the 1800s.
"And then, of course, tragedy struck," he said. In the course of one major famine, some smaller ones and a wave of emigration, the population fell back to 2 million.
"It just destroyed the whole crop system," McGettigan said. "Obviously, it rebounded."
Today, the potato is an important crop in Ireland -- and in the United States. Frank Muir, president of the Idaho Potato Commission, said the potato is the No. 1 vegetable in the United States in terms of consumption, with each American eating about 130 pounds of potatoes each year.
"So we love our potatoes," Muir said, adding that a third of all American potatoes are grown in Idaho, and that the Idaho Potato is marking its 70th anniversary this year.
The versatility of the potato has added to its appeal.
"It was used in stews, for breakfast, for our little potato farls (cakes or bread), mashed potatoes, shepherd's pie and potato bread," McGettigan said.
And in the Irish boxty, which can be served as a regular-sized potato pancake or a large, thin pancake enfolding other foods.
"The boxty is one of the biggest variations of a potato dish that pretty much is totally synonymous with Ireland," McGettigan said. "It's a thin potato pancake -- just another incorporation of the potato crop and making something fun out of it and blending it with other meats, cheeses, anything you want. It's almost the crepe of Ireland."
Muir said -- the protestations of the carbohydrate-averse notwithstanding -- that we can feel good about eating so many potatoes. A medium-sized potato, he points out, contains only 100 calories, no cholesterol, no fat and no sodium.
"But it has almost half of your daily needs of vitamin C, over 20 percent of your daily needs of potassium, plus it has protein, fiber and other trace minerals," he noted.
As a runner, Muir said, he's particularly aware of the need for potassium to protect against muscle cramping.
"Potatoes have twice as much potassium as the banana," he said. "The russet potato is one of the highest-in-potassium products you can eat."
And, OK, we'd expect Muir to be bullish on potatoes since they pay the bills. But are they really that nutritious?
"Yes, they are," said Sue Lednicky, a program officer in nutrition with Nevada Cooperative Extension. "Now, granted, a sweet potato would have more nutrients than a white potato would ..."
But back to white potatoes ...
"They do have vitamin C, different B vitamins and are a good source of energy," she said. "And it's a long-lasting energy."
But, Lednicky and Muir both acknowledged, what you do to that potato can greatly affect its nutritional content.
"There are all sorts of ways you can enrich it with what you serve it with," Muir said.
"Slice them thin and make them chips, they're soaking up a lot of oil, and then we throw salt on them and they become even less healthful," Lednicky said. "But when it comes to a baked potato, you're looking at a pretty good choice."
Except ...
"We typically think of butter and sour cream, and that's what gives potatoes a bad reputation," Muir said. "I like to put low-fat sour cream on it, then grilled chicken, some black olives, jalapenos, broccoli -- and it's an incredibly full meal.
"I just like a good old potato, all by itself," Lednicky said. "A little bit of salt's always good. I do need a little salt."
But toppings can be healthful and interesting at the same time.
"One that my family likes is creamed corn," Lednicky said. "Kind of different, but it's very good.
"Another is salsa, and any kind of cooked vegetables. Some people like to put seasonings on them, like taco seasoning or something along those lines."
Even what Lednicky calls "the obligatory butter and sour cream" is OK if it's used in moderation.
"A little bit isn't going to kill anybody," she said. "It's just that we slather it on."
If you're just baking a potato -- as opposed to mashing or roasting or frying or preparing it Lyonnaise, au gratin or Anna -- how you do it can determine whether it's light and fluffy or kind of heavy and gummy. David Walzog, who is executive chef at SW Steakhouse at Wynn Las Vegas, formulated the perfect baked potato for the Idaho Potato Commission. It entails, Walzog said, "a lot of details." One of them is ensuring you get the highest-quality, most unblemished potato you can. Which means not to buy them by the bag.
"Get the loose ones so you can hand-select them," he said. "And make sure they're all of consistent size."
Coat your potato with salt or oil if you like, "but it's probably best to prick it with a fork and then roast it dry," he said.
Set your oven temperature at 425 degrees and count on 45 minutes to an hour, bearing in mind that oven temperatures vary. Prick it with a paring knife at the end of the baking time, and if the knife goes in easily, the potato's done, he said. Or, bake it to an internal temperature of 210 degrees.
So is Walzog a fan of the potato?
"We have to be, with the steakhouse," he said. "They work well creamy, they work well crisp, or shredded -- if they're treated correctly. You've got to keep in mind that you're dealing with something with a complex kind of starch content. They can kind of get wacky if you don't appreciate that and don't understand how best to handle it. You can also use it to your advantage -- soups thickened with potato starch, sauces, things like that."
"I like to refer to the potato as kind of a canvas that you can paint on," Muir said. "It's a perfect background to carry all sorts of flavors and textures."
BOXTY
(POTATO CAKE)
1/2 pound raw potato
1/2 pound mashed potatoes
Salt and pepper
1/2 pound flour
1 egg
Milk
Grate the raw potatoes and mix them with the cooked mashed potatoes. Add salt, pepper and flour. Beat the egg and add to mixture with just enough milk to make a batter that will drop from a spoon.
Drop by tablespoonfuls onto a hot griddle or frying pan. Cook over moderate heat for 3 to 4 minutes on each side.
Serve with tart applesauce or as part of a breakfast fry, with fried bacon, sausage, eggs, black pudding, fried bread, fried soda bread, etc. (Or prepare the boxty in a large, crepe size, and use it to enfold cooked meats, vegetables, etc.)
Serves 6.
-- Recipe from The Information About Ireland Site
CORN AND POTATO CHOWDER
Cooking spray
1 1/2 cups chopped green bell pepper
1 cup chopped green onions (about 1 bunch), divided.
2 cups frozen corn kernels
1 1/4 cups water
1 teaspoon seafood seasoning, such as Old Bay
3/4 teaspoon dried thyme leaves
1/8 teaspoon ground red pepper
1 pound baking potatoes, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1 cup half-and-half
1/4 cup chopped parsley
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup (2 ounces) shredded reduced-fat sharp cheddar cheese
Heat a Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Coat pan with cooking spray. Add bell pepper and 3/4 cup green onions, and saute 4 minutes or until lightly browned.
Increase heat to high; add corn, water, seafood seasoning, thyme, red pepper and potatoes; bring to a boil. Cover, reduce heat and simmer 10 minutes, or until potatoes are tender. Remove from heat and stir in half-and-half, chopped parsley and salt. Place about 1 1/2 cups soup in each of 4 bowls; sprinkle each with 2 tablespoons cheese and 1 tablespoon green onions.
Serves 4.
-- Recipe from Cooking Light
IRISH CHOCOLATE CAKE
6 ounces self-rising flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 ounces dark chocolate
4 ounces butter
6 ounces caster sugar
3 ounces cooked mashed potatoes
2 eggs, beaten
4 tablespoons milk
For filling:
4 ounces dark chocolate
4 ounces double cream
2 ounces confectioners' sugar
3 tablespoons Irish cream liqueur
Preheat oven to 375 degrees and grease and line two 8-inch cake pans. Sift flour and salt into a mixing bowl. Melt chocolate in a bowl placed over a saucepan of hot water. In a separate bowl, cream butter and sugar together until fluffy, then beat in the chocolate and mashed potatoes. Gradually beat in the eggs, adding a little flour with each addition. Fold in the rest of the flour and stir in the milk.
Divide mixture between cake pans and bake for 25-30 minutes or until top is firm but springy to the touch. Remove from oven and after a few minutes, turn out on a cooling rack.
While the cake is cooling, make the filling: Melt the chocolate as before, stir in the other ingredients and mix well. Use the filling to sandwich the sponge layers together and coat the top and sides of the cake.
Serves 10 to 12.
-- Recipe from Irelandseye.com
REPEELED POTATOES
12 peeled potatoes (save peels)
2 onions
1 cup all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons Cajun spice
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
4 tablespoons chopped chives
Oil for frying
Place peeled potatoes in a saucepan with cold water and bring to a simmer. Add a pinch or two of salt and cook until tender. Strain out water and cool potatoes on a plate in the refrigerator.
Heat oil for frying to 350 degrees. Thinly slice onion and toss in all-purpose flour. Fry until golden brown and crispy. Remove and let drain on paper towels. Fry potato peels until crispy and transfer to a pan lined with paper towels.
In a food processor coarsely chop crisp onion and peels. Place in a bowl and toss with Cajun spice. (This can be done days in advance.)
When ready to serve, heat potatoes in lightly salted water. Melt butter in a saute pan. Add potatoes to saute pan and coat well with butter. One by one, coat the potatoes with the crust. Garnish with chives. Serve immediately.
Serves 4.
-- Recipe from the Idaho Potato Commission
CANNELLONI OF POTATO
AND WILD MUSHROOMS
Mushroom filling:
1/4 cup unsalted butter
1 cup thinly sliced white mushrooms
1 cup of thinly sliced shiitake mushroom
1 cup thinly sliced oyster mushrooms
1 cup thinly sliced chanterelle mushrooms
1 large shallot, finely chopped
1 tablespoon chopped chives
Salt and pepper, to taste
Potato:
1/4 cup unsalted butter, melted
Salt and pepper, to taste
2 large potatoes, peeled and trimmed, making one long side flat
For assembly:
2 tablespoons unsalted butter (divided use)
12 small shiitake caps
2 shallots, chopped
1/4 pound spinach leaves, washed and dried well
2 teaspoons clarified butter
3/4 cup mushroom stock
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 teaspoon chopped Italian parsley
Place the 1/4 cup butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Allow it to start to brown and add the white mushrooms. Saute for 1 minute, then add the shiitakes. Cook for 1 more minute and add the oyster and chanterelle mushrooms; cook for 5-6 minutes, until the liquid evaporates. Then add the shallot and chives, season with salt and pepper, stir well and allow to cool.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line two sheet pans with parchment paper, brush with butter and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Slice the potatoes 1/8 inch thick, ending up with 24 slices. Arrange the slices on the paper (not overlapping) and brush them with butter and sprinkle with a little salt and pepper. Cover with another sheet of parchment paper and bake for 10 minutes or until tender.
Lay out an 8-inch piece of plastic wrap and slightly overlap 2 slices of potato parallel in the center of the plastic. Place 2 1/2 teaspoons of the mushroom mixture on the short edge of the potatoes and roll up tightly, using the plastic wrap to help roll. Seal the plastic tightly. Repeat with remaining potatoes and mushroom mixture and refrigerate until firm, about 1 hour.
Heat 1 tablespoon of butter in a saute pan over medium heat. Saute the shiitake caps for 4 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and keep warm. Place 1 tablespoon of butter in the same pan and cook the shallots 2 to 3 minutes, until softened. Add the spinach and cook until wilted. Season with salt and pepper and set aside.
Remove the cannelloni from the plastic. Place the clarified butter in a nonstick pan and saute them all sides until golden brown and crispy.
To make sauce, heat stock over high heat and reduce by one-third. Lower the heat and whip in the 2 tablespoons unsalted butter. Season with salt and pepper and add the parsley.
To serve, place the spinach on the plate and place two cannelloni side-by-side on top of the spinach. Place three shiitake caps over the top; spoon the sauce around and serve.
Serves 4.
-- Recipe adapted from the Idaho Potato Commission
POTATO LOLLIPOPS
Lollipops:
6 medium russet potatoes, peeled
Oil for deep-frying
Salt and freshly cracked black pepper, to taste
18 lollipop sticks
2 tablespoons minced chives
Bacon-mustard aioli:
2 egg yolks
Juice and zest of 1 lemon
1 clove garlic
1 cup canola oil
1/2 cup olive oil
4 strips bacon, cooked crisp, finely chopped
2 tablespoons stone-ground mustard
2 tablespoons thinly sliced chives
Salt and freshly cracked black pepper, to taste
Cheddar bechamel:
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 cup 2 percent milk, plus more as needed for reheating
2 cups finely grated cheddar cheese
Salt and freshly cracked black pepper, to taste
Arugula cream:
1/2 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 medium yellow onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
2 cups firmly packed fresh arugula, washed and dried
Zest of 1 lemon
1/2 cup heavy cream
Salt and freshly cracked black pepper, to taste
Using the center section of each potato, slice three horizontal 1-inch-thick slices (trim off ends of potatoes). Using a small round cookie cutter cut three circles (or use other cutter for desired shape). Reserve ends for other use. Soak cut potatoes briefly in cool water to prevent them from discoloring.
Place potatoes in pot of heavily salted water; bring to simmer. Cook until potatoes begin to soften, 5 to 8 minutes; remove from water and dry at room temperature. Potatoes should be cooked 1/2 to 3/4 of the way through.
To prepare bacon-mustard aioli: In food processor, pulse yolks, lemon juice, zest and garlic until incorporated and smooth, about 1 minute. Combine oils; slowly add to egg mixture with processor running so mixture emulsifies. If mixture gets too thick, add 1 to 2 tablespoons milk or water. Transfer to small bowl. Using rubber spatula, fold in bacon, mustard and chives; season to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside in refrigerator for as long as 2 days.
To prepare cheddar bechamel: Melt butter in small, heavy saucepan over medium heat. Stir in flour; cook to a smooth paste, about 1 minute. Whisk in milk; cook until mixture is thick and smooth, 2 minutes. Reduce heat to low, add cheese, salt and pepper; stir until cheese has melted, 2 minutes. Remove from heat; adjust seasoning. Reserve warm.
To prepare arugula cream: In a heavy saucepan, melt butter over medium-high heat. As butter begins to brown, add onion and garlic; cook until onion becomes translucent, 2 to 3 minutes. Add arugula, lemon zest, cream, salt and pepper. When cream reaches a simmer, lower heat; cook until liquid is reduced by half, 7 to 8 minutes, watching closely so cream doesn't boil over. Remove from heat; transfer to blender or food processor. Puree until smooth. Adjust seasoning. Reserve warm.
Liberally season potatoes with salt and pepper. Heat oil in deep-fryer to 350 degrees to 360 degrees and finish cooking potatoes for 6 to 8 minutes until fork-tender and golden brown. Remove potatoes; carefully slide lollipop stick into each for service.
Spoon 1 tablespoon each of aïoli, bechamel and arugula cream onto a plate. Carefully place potato lollipop so it stands secured in sauces. Garnish with minced chives. Serve at once.
