Cafe Martorano on the second level of the Rio's Masquerade Village features Italian food. Photo by Jane Kalinowsky.

Steve Martorano knows what it means to start from the ground up.

After working as a DJ in Philadelphia in the 1970s and '80s, Martorano began making and selling sandwiches out of his apartment. When that no-no came to the attention of authorities, Martorano moved his operation to his mother's basement.

His next location was a 500-square-foot space in Fort Lauderdale, Fla., that served more than just sandwiches -- he had expanded the menu to feature Italian cuisine.

Now he's in residence in a 150-seat, 3,200-square-foot space at the Rio, 3700 W. Flamingo Road, with his Las Vegas version of Cafe Martorano.

On the second level of the Rio's Masquerade Village, Cafe Martorano "is like a nightclub," the deeply tanned and tattooed Martorano says. Loud music plays over the sound system, with Martorano at the turntable, several television sets play scenes from movies, there are even customers dancing on the tables and bar as a featured attraction.

Still, it's all about the food, according to Martorano. "The food has to be consistent. There's a four-hour wait on Saturday night. But people wait that long, the food is that good. ... What makes Italian food good is the quality."

Martorano features EVOO, which contains extra virgin olive oil, balsamic vinegar, crushed garlic, salt and pepper, in many dishes, along with fresh mozzarella, the kind that hasn't been refrigerated.

"I really care about what we do here," Martorano says. "My name's on it, it's got to be right."

Open 5:30 p.m. to 2 a.m., Cafe Martorano does not accept reservations.

Starters: Homemade meatballs with South Philly salad, EVOO and imported red wine vinegar ($24); eggplant stack with mozzarella, tomatoes, arugula, EVOO, aged balsamic vinegar and slices of imported parmigiano-reggiano ($32); South Philly-style fried calamari, prepared two ways: tossed with hot and sweet peppers in a San Marzano tomato sauce or traditional style served with a side of spicy tomato sauce ($24); baked clams topped with Italian-style bread crumbs and Sicilian EVOO ($18); shrimp scampi bread with two jumbo shrimp sauteed with white wine, garlic, diced tomatoes and sweet peas served over toasted Italian bread ($27); South Philly home-style cheese steak with thin slices of prime steak, sweet onions and American cheese served on a crisp Italian roll ($18).

Salad: Mixed green salad with EVOO, aged balsamic vinegar and slices of imported pecorino romano cheese ($18).

Entrees: Specialty macaroni items include spaghetti made with imported San Marzano tomatoes, EVOO and basil and garlic ($23); perciatelli with pancetta, onions, pecorino romano cheese, garlic, San Marzano tomatoes and basil ($24); rigatoni with EVOO, garlic, basil, diced hot peppers and San Marzano tomatoes ($23); fussilli with diced breaded chicken cutlet, hot and sweet peppers, basil, garlic and San Marzano tomatoes ($38); orecchiette with hot and sweet sausage, white and red beans, escarole and EVOO ($32); and pappardelle with classic Parmesan cream ($23).

South Philly items include veal cutlet parmigiana with lightly breaded tenderloin of veal layered with mozzarella, basil, San Marzano tomato sauce and homemade gnocchi ($42); veal picatta with veal tenderloin medallions lightly seared in EVOO with cherry peppers, Italian parsley, white wine, butter and lemon with homemade risotto and spinach aglio-e-olio ($38); chicken cacciatore with sausage with chicken on the bone, hot and sweet sausage cooked to order with red and yellow peppers, four kinds of mushrooms, onions, garlic and San Marzano tomatoes with homemade risotto ($38); and lobster francese with cold-water lobster tail dipped in a special egg batter and sauteed in EVOO, lemon, butter and white wine with jumbo lump crabmeat accompanied by homemade risotto and spinach aglio-e-olio ($69).

Appetizers is a weekly column about new developments on the Las Vegas dining scene. Items should not be considered reviews or recommendations and none is a paid advertisement.