With Passover beginning at sundown Monday, I thought it appropriate to pick a wine that is both kosher and flavorful.

Given the tremendous impact that wine had on the people of the Bible and throughout history, it is easy to see why a wine such as Bartenura Moscato would become a drink of choice. It is almost a perfect hypothetical blend of white zinfandel and champagne, which is sure to please any palate.

Made from this delicious grape varietal in the northern part of Italy, close to Milan, it is just right for easy drinking or an aperitif. The price is reasonable, too, and while not as cheap as white zinfandel, it is far more complex and interesting than that.

In the glass, Bartenura Moscato is a faint lemon-yellow color with a clean, clear appearance from the core out to the pale, almost glass-clear meniscus. Signs of effervescence in the form of fine bubbles and slight foam when it is poured into the glass are typical of this sort of wine.

On the nose, there are fresh zesty scents of white peaches, apricot skins, white flowers, pear juice, lemon rind, white raspberries and underlying soft minerals.

In the mouth, the wine is slightly spritzy with just a touch of effervescence, followed by a sweet rounded mix of crushed white fruit, including peaches, nectarines, and stone and white grape juice, leading into a wonderfully supple and pleasant midpalate. The sweetish finish is again very soft.

It is a lovely wine made from ripe Italian moscato grapes with all the characteristics of this likable varietal. Considering the plethora of foods found on the typical Seder table for Passover, this wine is a dream match for it all. Drink it now through 2008 and serve chilled to 50 degrees Fahrenheit.

Wine: Bartenura Moscato

Grape: Moscato

Vintage: 2005

Region: Pavia, Northern Italy

Price: $11.99

Gil Lempert-Schwarz's wine column appears Wednesdays. Write him at P.O. Box 50749, Henderson, NV 89016-0749, or e-mail him at gil@winevegas.com.