Big-batch pastries still an art as volunteers prep for Las Vegas Greek Food Festival

The time is 6 a.m. on Aug. 27. The sun hasn’t even fully risen, and volunteer bakers are filing into the kitchen of St. John the Baptist Greek Orthodox Church, 5300 El Camino Road, to begin dessert preparation for the 44th annual Las Vegas Greek Food Festival.

The task of the day is to make, at least, 100 batches of Bougatsa.

By 9 a.m., the bakers have lost count of how much they’ve made.

This kind of preparation is expected for one of Las Vegas’ most popular festivals, set to take place Sept. 16-18 at the church. At least 30,000 people are expected to attend, and food needs to be aplenty. That’s why the volunteers take the three Saturdays leading up to the festival to prepare an ample amount.

Nine batches of Bougatsa were made in 40 minutes. So, in the off chance they do run out, it would take less than five minutes to make a fresh batch.

“If they do (run out), they make them again in a hurry,” festival coordinator Marilyn Flangas said. “Usually, they’re well-prepared.”

Bougatsa is one of the most beloved Greek pastries that’s not baklava. Layers of filo dough cover a slab of custard across a tinfoil baking sheet and bake for 30 to 35 minutes.

It seems simple, until it’s realized how much of each ingredient goes in.

The process begins near these two heavyweight mixing bowls that are also heated. This is where the custard will be made. A total of 12 gallons of milk are pierced with a large steak knife. Presumably, this is to speed up the process of milk extraction rather than opening the lid. Once the milk is poured into one of these behemoth bowls, a nearly 4-foot whisk is used to stir it, which has to be continuous for about 15 to 20 minutes.

“You have to keep stirring,” baker Sam Koutsulis said. “If you leave, even for a second, it’ll burn.”

After the milk has been stirred enough, next comes 30 pounds of sugar to control the milk’s boiling. While that process is taking place, 15 dozen eggs have been cracked and will soon join the milk and sugar mixture to give the custard its thickness and color.

Finally, after those have been added, a simple cup of vanilla is placed in the concoction, and the filling is brought back to a heat.

Once it makes even the slightest boil, the custard is finished. Two giant plastic buckets are waiting in the wings to be filled with the cream. A small latch is opened at the bottom of the bowls, and the custard slowly oozes out of the dish and into the buckets that will be wheeled to the other side, where the filo dough is being laid out and buttered.

Filo dough is very thin, so one layer won’t cut it. The bakers take numerous layers and spread a good amount of butter so that the dough doesn’t stick.

This kind of Bougatsa requires about 4 pounds of butter per batch.

Right when the bottom layers of filo are laid out and spread with butter, next comes the custard, which is scooped by the biggest ladle ever witnessed. It takes about one or two scoops to fill the entire tinfoil, which is then put to the side.

“Everything is counted for,” volunteer Jenny Cotsilis said. “And when more people come (later to help), it’ll make everything easier.”

Bougatsa is just one of nearly 30 desserts made for the three-day festival, which begins Sept. 16. Spending an entire Saturday making pastries is probably not how one envisions the start to a weekend, but everyone seems happy to do it.

“They all work hard,” Flangas said. “Everybody’s a volunteer here. It’s great to see this kind of hard work.”

The Las Vegas Greek Food Festival runs through Sept. 18. One-day passes are $6, and three-day passes are $10. Children 12 or younger are free. Visit lasvegasgreekfestival.com.

To reach View copy editor Danny Webster, email dwebster@viewnews.com or call 702-477-3834. Find him on Twitter: @DannyWebster21.