7th & Carson wows with bread, Panna Cotta

Updated January 13, 2018 - 5:41 pm

Until recently, 7th & Carson, which opened this summer in downtown Las Vegas, served only one dessert, Salted Butterscotch Panna Cotta ($8). While the dessert menu has been expanded to four selections, that solo-spotlight status sent a message. If you’re going to make a statement like that it had better be spectacular — and it is.

Panna cotta, an Italian dessert that literally translates to “cooked cream,” is similar to custard but lighter because of the absence of eggs, the thickener in this case is gelatin. That lightness has led to a recent surge in popularity, with variations such as buttermilk, chocolate and coffee popping up all over the place.

Not like this, though.

7th & Carson has given its version a brulee treatment, the caramelized sugar crust an even better pairing with the lighter base than traditional custard. It had a subtle butterscotch undercurrent that was further enhanced with just a whisper of bourbon, a puff of whipped cream and a flurry of salt. Life is uncertain; you may want to start with this dish.

Which isn’t to say the rest of the menu is forgettable. 7th & Carson has been a lively addition to downtown Las Vegas, serving Americana tapas by chef Gregg Fortunato (late of Buddha Bar, Blue Ribbon Sushi and Inyo Asian Variety) with uncommon elan.

Hearth Oven Bread ($13), a large round of stretchy, crisp-edged, flattish dough, is perfectly adequate on its own, with a drizzle of oil. But there’s more, in the form of four spreads. The eggplant-based baba ghanoush was particularly smoky, which gave it appealing depth. Hummus was topped with pine nuts, a crunchy contrast in flavor and texture. Cucumber-yogurt evoked the flavor of the Greek classic tzatziki, with a jot of fruity olive oil. Winners all, but it was difficult for them to compete with the red pepper, an ultra-concentrated flavor explosion that played so well off the bread.

Braised oxtail toast ($11) was worthy of its “favorite” menu designation, the crisp toast a suitable foil for the long-braised tender meat. There was plenty of beefy flavor there but it was almost too intense, and would have benefited if the cheese curds melted atop had been larger, the smoked sea salt a little more copious, which would have lent welcome balance.

It paled in comparison with the white truffle toast ($10), as successful as the panna cotta though in a very different way. This time focaccia served as the foil, cut into large, thick chunks and thoroughly toasted with an oil that left a shadow of truffle flavor, which melded with a sprinkle of rosemary, the crusty bread surface providing gratifying contrast to the pillowy interior. A dip into the molten Gouda fondue was the culinary equivalent of dropping into a hot tub on a chilly day.

7th & Carson is in the space that formerly housed Glutton, and retains much of the same design ethos, quasi-industrial with splashes of color from graphic-print tabletops. Its various configurations of flexible seating make it an easy fit for groups of all sizes, but the counter seating, suitable for solo diners, seems like the best option.

Who, after all, would want to share that panna cotta?

If you go

■ 7th & Carson, 616 E. Carson Ave.; 702-868-3355

■ The essence: Small plates creatively conceived and successfully executed — like the not-to-be-missed Salted Butterscotch Panna Cotta.

Las Vegas Review-Journal restaurant reviews are done anonymously at Review-Journal expense. Contact Heidi Knapp Rinella at Hrinella@reviewjournal.com or 702-383-0474. Follow @HKRinella on Twitter.

ad-high_impact_4
Entertainment
Lip Smacking Foodie Tours takes you where the locals go
Donald Contursi talks about Lip Smacking Foodie Tours, which offers walking tours of restaurants on and off Las Vegas Boulevard with food samples and tidbits of history about the places they visit.
Dwayne 'The Rock' Johnson Welcomes New Baby Girl!
Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson Welcomes New Baby Girl! The 45-year-old actor posted an adorable photo on Instagram, celebrating his newborn baby girl, Tiana Gia Johnson. Dwayne Johnson, via Instagram Dwayne Johnson, via Instagram Dwayne Johnson, via Instagram This is Johnson’s second daughter with his girlfriend, Lauren Hashian. His oldest daughter, Simone Garcia Johnson, came from his previous marriage. Johnson and Hashian first announced they were expecting another child back in January. Congratulations!!
Viva Las Vegas Rockabilly Weekend Car Show celebrates 21st year
The Stray Cats, Jerry Lee Lewis, Duane Eddy, Elvira and Mitch Polzak make appearances the 21st Annual Viva Las Vegas Rockabilly Weekend car show at the Orleans hotel and casino on Saturday, April 21, 2018.
This "Alice in Wonderland" cocktail changes colors and flavors while you sip
Take a tour of The Underground at The Mob Museum
Prince death investigation coming to an end
Prosecutors in Minnesota plan an announcement Thursday on the two-year investigation into Prince's death from a drug overdose Prince was 57 when he was found alone and unresponsive in an elevator at his Paisley Park estate on April 21, 2016. An autopsy found he died of an accidental overdose of fentanyl. Search warrants unsealed about a year after Prince died showed that authorities searched his home, cellphone records of associates and his email accounts to try to determine how he got the drug. The county attorney has scheduled a morning announcement at which time charges could be filed.
Art Bell’s Top 10 Shows
A selection of radio host Art Bell’s most popular shows.
Big Bounce America visits North Las Vegas
Billing itself as "the biggest bounce house in the world," Big Bounce America visits Craig Ranch Regional Park in Las Vegas.
David Copperfield in court after man injured during magic trick
The attorney for a British man who is suing illusionist David Copperfield said his client suffered serious injuries after being called on stage during Copperfield's show at MGM Grand.
Disneyland debuts new foods for Pixar Fest on Friday
Pixar Fest takes place ahead of California Adventure’s Pixar Pier expansion. (Janna Karel/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Sneak Peek at New Decorations, Merch and Parade for Disneyland's Pixar Fest
Las Vegas Philharmonic celebrates 20th anniversary season
Orchestra’s 2018-19 season features premiere, more (Carol Cling/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Downtown Las Vegas' newest bar is a reggae lounge
Jammyland serves island-inspired cocktails. (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
5 things connecting Las Vegas and Marilyn Monroe
1. Marilyn Monroe, known then as Norma Jeane, obtained her first divorce in Las Vegas at the age of 20 on September 13, 1946. 2. According to some biographers, Monroe lived at 604 S. 3rd Street for four months during the summer of 1946. The house has since been torn down and is now the site of a parking lot. 3. In 1954, Monroe almost married Joe DiMaggio in Las Vegas but the wedding was called off last minute. The wedding was to be held at the Hotel El Rancho Vegas which was located on the southwest corner of Sahara Avenue and Las Vegas Boulevard. 4. Las Vegas has at least one road dedicated to the star. Marilyn Monroe Avenue is located in east Las Vegas and intersects with Betty Davis Street and Cary Grant Court. 5. There are currently more than 20 Marilyn Monroe impersonators for hire in the Las Vegas Valley.
This boozy milkshake is big enough to share with seven of your best friends
Fiddlestix makes an "8 Man Milkshake" that's packed with alcohol. (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Five Chris Stapleton songs you need to hear
D. Michael Evola opened E-String to make New York style pizza
Shamrock Macarons at Morels at Palazzo
Zuma serves a sushi roll topped with 24-karat gold
La Cirque covers their quail and foie gras in real gold
Jean-Georges Steakhouse seves chocolate gold bars
3 ways you can eat gold in Las Vegas
Artist Kathleen Nathan On The Virtues Of Library Galleries
The Las Vegas-Clark County Library District’s art galleries offers artists a more relaxed vibe for showing their work. (John Przybys/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Nevada SPCA Competes In Tournament Of Tails
The NSPCA and its mascot cat, Prince, are competing in an online voting challenge for a $5,000 grand prize.
Red carpet at MGM for Dan Reynolds Believer screening
Kats on the red carpet for the VIP screening of "Believer," the documentary by Imagine Dragons frontman Dan Reynolds about how the Mormon Church treats its LGBTQ members.
Eureka's cocktail comes with a "buzz button" that will shock your taste buds
‘The Sopranos’ Prequel Film Confirmed
‘The Sopranos’ Prequel Film Confirmed Deadline reports that New Line has purchased Chase and Lawrence Konner’s screenplay for their “Sopranos” prequel film. The working title for the prequel is “The Many Saints of Newark.” Chase created the HBO series, which ran for six seasons, and Konner served as a writer. “The Many Saints of Newark” is set during the 1960s riots in the New Jersey city between the African-American and Italian communities. Multiple characters from the series, albeit younger versions, are expected to star in the film. The Sopranos won 21 Primetime Emmy Awards and five Golden Globe Awards during its run.
The Big Bounce America is coming to the Las Vegas Valley
The Big Bounce America. (Courtesy Big Bounce America)
The 90th Oscars Were the Least Watched in History
The 90th Oscars Were the Least Watched in History According to The Hollywood Reporter, 26.5 million watched the Oscars, a 20 percent drop from last year. The 26.5 million viewers would be an all-time low for the Oscars. Overnight returns had the lengthy ABC telecast averaging a 18.9 rating among households between 8 and 11 p.m. ET. Last year, 32.9 million viewers tuned in to watch the ceremony. The previous low for viewership was 32 million viewers in 2008 when Jon Stewart was host. The Shape of Water picked up an award for Best Picture, while Gary Oldman and Frances McDormand won Best Actor and Actress, respectively.
March First Friday theme is “Think”
First Friday art, culture, music and food event takes place on the first Friday of every month in and around the studios and galleries of the Arts District in downtown Las Vegas. (K.M. Cannon)
TOP NEWS
News Headlines
ad-infeed_1
ads_infeed_2
Local Spotlight
Events
Home Front Page Footer Listing
Circular
You May Like

You May Like