At Boss’s Slow Smoked BBQ, the sides shine as much as meats

Updated December 17, 2017 - 10:09 am

The skill of the person at the smoker is the critical element of any barbecue restaurant but side dishes are important, too. At Boss’s Slow Smoked BBQ in Henderson, they bring a lot to the party.

Mama’s Mac N Cheese ($3.99, in a combo with beverage) was a fine interpretation of a comfort-food staple. The firm pasta was blanketed by a velvety blend of cheeses and, best of all, cubes of tomato were mixed in for an offbeat but complementary touch. The large serving was enough for sharing or as an entree on its own.

Though the oil could have been a tad fresher for the fries ($3.99), the large, crispy-edged, thick sticks with skin-on ends and fluffy interiors were quite tasty, served with a slightly tangy sauce.

Raw cabbage doesn’t offer much in the way of flavor, so it’s left to the seasoning to determine the success of a cole slaw. The generous component of celery salt in Boss’s ($2.99, in a combo) amped up the flavor considerably. The cabbage was crisp, the dressing creamy, for a fresh counterpoint to the smoky meats.

But the meats are of course the real draw for a barbecue joint — especially in this case, because Boss’s found a degree of local fame even before it opened, thanks to a parking-lot smoking operation whose aromas drew in passing motorists. Tri-tip is a West Coast favorite that’s been slow to find its way to Las Vegas barbecue spots but it’s on the menu here. A tri-tip sandwich ($9) was served on a salad-plate-sized bun hefty enough to support the pile of tangled shreds of meat. Smoked beef is often a lot drier than another barbecue standard, pulled pork, but a good dose of sauce went a long way toward alleviating that.

The delicately crispy smoked chicken leg quarter ($5) with burnished skin was flavorful and juicy, and showed off the smoker’s barbecue prowess.

The chicken was the source of some confusion because the only versions listed on the menu were a pulled-meat sandwich, smoked-meat salad or a whole chicken ($12), but the woman behind the counter offered the quarter when the whole one was ordered.

Service was quite good. An employee zips to the front as soon as the door to the counter-service spot opens, and food is brought to the table instead of requiring pickup.

The bulk of Boss’s business seems to be takeout but the interior seating is comfortable enough, with spacious tables, sturdy chairs and sports on TV.

And anyway, it’s more comfortable than the parking lot.

If you go

■ Boss’s Slow Smoked BBQ, 2895 N. Green Valley Parkway, Henderson; 702-683-6656

■ The essence: Good sides, slow-smoked meats.

Las Vegas Review-Journal restaurant reviews are done anonymously at Review-Journal expense. Contact Heidi Knapp Rinella at Hrinella@reviewjournal.com or 702-383-0474. Follow @HKRinella on Twitter.

ad-high_impact_4
Entertainment
Jason Aldean talks about the possibility of a Las Vegas residency
Country superstar Jason Aldean discusses his feelings about playing in Las Vegas and says he'd be interested in a Las Vegas residency when the time is right at the iHeart Radio Music Festival in Las Vegas on September 21, 2018.(John Katsilometes/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Block 16 Urban Food Hall Serves Favorite Foods From Across The US
Block 16 Urban Food Hall Serves Favorite Foods From Across The US (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Benny the Skating Dog could be the next Golden Knights on-ice entertainment
Benny the Skating Dog could be the next Golden Knights on-ice entertainment (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Who To Watch At Life Is Beautiful
Life Is Beautiful Setup
Workers preparing Fremont street for this weekend's Life is Beautiful festival, on Wednesday, September 19, 2018. Mat Luschek/Las Vegas Review-Journal
The 46th annual Greek Food Festival will feed 25,000 people in Las Vegas
Madame Tussauds Has The Newest VR Experience On The Strip
Madame Tussauds Has The Newest VR Experience On The Strip. (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Zia Records Move
Zias Records is moving from its Sahara Avenue and Arville Street location to a bigger store. (Mat Luscheck/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Students At The International Contortion Convention In Las Vegas Learn How To Bend And Twist Their Bodies
Students At The International Contortion Convention In Las Vegas Learn How To Bend And Twist Their Bodies. (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Video from Fertitta wedding Sep. 1
video from @wedstagrams of Fertitta wedding at Red Rock Resort
You Can Get Vegan Unicorn Toast In Downtown Las Vegas
You Can Get Vegan Unicorn Toast In Downtown Las Vegas (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Five must-see bands at Psycho Las Vegas 2018
Five must-see bands at Psycho Las Vegas 2018
Zuma's Ice Cube Carving Is Satisfying To Watch
Zuma's Ice Cube Carving Is Satisfying To Watch (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Therapy In Downtown Las Vegas Serves Cast Iron S'mores
Therapy In Downtown Las Vegas Serves Cast Iron S'mores. (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
New Brunch Spot The Stove Makes Unicorn Hot Chocolate And Bananas Foster Pancakes
New Brunch Spot The Stove Makes Unicorn Hot Chocolate And Bananas Foster Pancakes. (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
The Octopus On The Las Vegas Strip Predicted The Winner Of The World Cup
The Octopus On The Las Vegas Strip Predicted The Winner Of The World Cup. (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-journal)
TLC by the Numbers
Watch Ruthless! at Las Vegas Little Theatre
The musical Ruthless! will be playing at Las Vegas Little Theatre from July 13-29. (Marcus Villagran/Las Vegas Review-Journal) @brokejournalist
How to feel like a kid again in Las Vegas
How to feel like a kid again in Las Vegas
People Lined Up For Over 5 Hours For Build-a-bear's "Pay Your Age" Promotion At Galleria Mall
People Lined Up For Over 5 Hours For Build-a-bear's "Pay Your Age" Promotion At Galleria Mall. (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Cadaver art and sword swallowing at The Dark Arts Market
Curator Erin Emrie talks about her inspiration for The Dark Arts Market at Cornish Pasty Co. in Las Vegas Tuesday, July 10, 2018. (Marcus Villagran/Las Vegas Review-Journal) @brokejournalist
Over 40,000 People Attend The 4th Of July Parade In Summerlin In Las Vegas
Over 40,000 People Attend The 4th Of July Parade In Summerlin In Las Vegas. (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
What to expect at Station Casinos' Fourth of July celebration
Station Casinos' is hosting its annual 4th of July celebration with Fireworks by Grucci. Fireworks scheduled to go off on Wednesday, July 4 around 9 p.m. at Green Valley Ranch Resort, Red Rock Resort, Fiesta Rancho and Texas Station. (Marcus Villagran/Las Vegas Review-Journal) @brokejournalist
Pawn Stars' Richard Harrison honored at memorial service
A memorial service was conducted for Richard "Old Man" Harrison at Palm Mortuary in Las Vegas on Sunday, July 1, 2018. (Marcus Villagran/Review-Journal) @brokejournalist
Tourists and locals enjoy Independence Day fireworks at Caesars Palace
Hundreds of tourists and locals gaze at the Independence Day fireworks show at Caesars Palace on Saturday, June 30, 2018. (Marcus Villagran/Las Vegas Review-Journal) @brokejournalist
5 must-see bands at Warped Tour 2018
Five must-see bands at Warped Tour 2018
This Banana Split In Las Vegas Is Made With Fire And Liquid Nitrogen Right At Your Table.
This Banana Split In Las Vegas Is Made With Fire And Liquid Nitrogen Right At Your Table. (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
TOP NEWS
News Headlines
Add Event
Home Front Page Footer Listing
Circular
You May Like

You May Like