Esther’s Kitchen honors chef’s great aunt with indulgent fare

Esther, you did good.

The namesake of one of downtown’s hottest new restaurants was the great aunt of Las Vegas native James Trees. She made it possible for Trees to attend the Culinary Institute of America, and it’s her legacy that enabled him to honor her with Esther’s Kitchen. The potential Esther saw has manifested as a blessing for Las Vegas.

Tangible proof of Trees’ culinary prowess — gained toiling in the kitchens of celebrated names such as Michael Mina, Eric Ripert and Gordon Ramsay — is in his house-made levain bread. Levain’s sourdough flavor is mild with just a hint of fermentation. The crust is exceptional. The bread is hand-formed, its formidable surface is rough and craggy and a pleasure to sink your teeth into. Served with butter ($4) it’s a treat, but it becomes positively indulgent with burrata and basil oil (plus $5), the cream-infused mild cheese at its best with the brightly colored, flavored oil.

Knowing the pasta is made in-house, it was a little surprising to see the Abruzzo-region specialty chitarra on the menu. The labor-intensive chitarra isn’t rolled or extruded but pressed onto a multi-stringed device (the origin of the name, which means “guitar”), the freshly cut, squarish strands dropping to a platform below. It’s a particularly chewy cut that deserves a starring role, which made it perfect for Roman-style cacio e pepe ($16), in which the pasta is simply tossed with pecorino Romano cheese and ground black pepper (in this case tellicherry, which has larger grains that pack extra punch) with just some pasta water and a little olive oil. It’s the essence of Italian food, simple but high-quality elements that add up to a feast.

Carbonara ($17) is commonplace but seldom paired with the undervalued rigatoni, squat, sturdy tubes that define the term “al dente.” Simplicity again triumphed, the pasta simply graced with guanciale (cured pork jowl that’s more luxurious and less smoky than bacon) with egg yolk for richness and Grana Padana for earthy depth.

A pizza with lamb sausage and chopped clams ($15) stood out for its unusual combination that worked beautifully, the spicy sausage and chilis countering the shellfish’s pronounced flavor. This dough is made in-house as well, and the crust had an appealing stretchiness between its thickly rolled edges.

In a dessert of panna cotta ($8), the seldom seen and underrated rhubarb was a refreshing choice, though somewhat underplayed. The cool, creamy dish was an effectively neutral foil for a scattering of roasted strawberries and pistachio-cake cubes, but the few blobs of pureed rhubarb could have contributed much more.

One other small quibble was in the starter of polpette with tomato sugo, or meatball with tomato sauce ($12). Good flavor here, particularly from the basil ricotta, but the meatball was too dry.

Service was pleasant and efficient. Esther’s Kitchen, which opened in early January, has a funky vibe that’s appropriate for its location on the edge of the Arts District. An oversized photo mural of a pier dominates the dining room, and there are wooden tables, a mix of upholstered and metal chairs, artfully glazed floor pavers and al fresco seating overlooking either street or alley. Trees’ pride in his hometown and the artists around him shows in the use of pottery dishes by Clay Arts Las Vegas and retro silverware embossed with “Dunes Hotel.”

Considering the period, the silverware could have been Esther’s, and her spirit does indeed linger here. She made Trees’ career possible, and for that we can be grateful.

If you go

Esther’s Kitchen, 1130 S. Casino Center Blvd.; 702-570-7864 or estherslv.com

The essence: Tradition meets innovation, with disparate elements that meet in harmony.

Las Vegas Review-Journal restaurant reviews are done anonymously at Review-Journal expense. Contact Heidi Knapp Rinella at hrinella@reviewjournal.com or 702-383-0474. Follow @HKRinella onTwitter.

ad-high_impact_4
Entertainment
Downtown Summerlin hosts its annual Festival of Arts
People crowd to Downtown Summerlin for the 23rd annual Summerlin Festival of Arts in Las Vegas, Sunday, Oct. 14, 2018. (Caroline Brehman/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Bellagio, MGM Resorts International’s luxury hotel turns 20
The more than 3,000-room Bellagio hotel is situated on the site of the former Dunes Hotel. The Dunes was imploded in 1993, and construction of the Bellagio started in 1996. It cost $1.6 billion to build, making it the most expensive hotel in the world at the time. The Bellagio was former Wynn Resorts Ltd. Chairman and CEO Steve Wynn’s second major casino on the Strip after The Mirage. MGM Resorts International acquired the property from Steve Wynn in 2000. (Tara Mack/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Recycled Art and Cute Dogs at Summerlin Festival Of Arts
Recycled Art, Cute Dogs Abound At Summerlin Festival Of Arts (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Bellagio Patisserie Creates Life-size Sculpture Of 20th Anniversary Of Cirque Du Soleil Show
Bellagio Patisserie Creates Life-size Sculpture Of 20th Anniversary Of Cirque Du Soleil Show (Janna Karel/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
10 Most Iconic Moments At The Bellagio Fountains
10 Most Iconic Moments At The Bellagio Fountains (Janna Karel/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Jason Aldean talks about the possibility of a Las Vegas residency
Country superstar Jason Aldean discusses his feelings about playing in Las Vegas and says he'd be interested in a Las Vegas residency when the time is right at the iHeart Radio Music Festival in Las Vegas on September 21, 2018.(John Katsilometes/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Block 16 Urban Food Hall Serves Favorite Foods From Across The US
Block 16 Urban Food Hall Serves Favorite Foods From Across The US (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Benny the Skating Dog could be the next Golden Knights on-ice entertainment
Benny the Skating Dog could be the next Golden Knights on-ice entertainment (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Who To Watch At Life Is Beautiful
Life Is Beautiful Setup
Workers preparing Fremont street for this weekend's Life is Beautiful festival, on Wednesday, September 19, 2018. Mat Luschek/Las Vegas Review-Journal
The 46th annual Greek Food Festival will feed 25,000 people in Las Vegas
Madame Tussauds Has The Newest VR Experience On The Strip
Madame Tussauds Has The Newest VR Experience On The Strip. (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Zia Records Move
Zias Records is moving from its Sahara Avenue and Arville Street location to a bigger store. (Mat Luscheck/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Students At The International Contortion Convention In Las Vegas Learn How To Bend And Twist Their Bodies
Students At The International Contortion Convention In Las Vegas Learn How To Bend And Twist Their Bodies. (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Video from Fertitta wedding Sep. 1
video from @wedstagrams of Fertitta wedding at Red Rock Resort
You Can Get Vegan Unicorn Toast In Downtown Las Vegas
You Can Get Vegan Unicorn Toast In Downtown Las Vegas (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Five must-see bands at Psycho Las Vegas 2018
Five must-see bands at Psycho Las Vegas 2018
Zuma's Ice Cube Carving Is Satisfying To Watch
Zuma's Ice Cube Carving Is Satisfying To Watch (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Therapy In Downtown Las Vegas Serves Cast Iron S'mores
Therapy In Downtown Las Vegas Serves Cast Iron S'mores. (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
TOP NEWS
News Headlines
Add Event
Home Front Page Footer Listing
Circular
You May Like

You May Like