Snack and dessert wagons are among the creative touches at Harvest

With all due respect, the staff at Harvest could learn a lot from dim sum ladies.

Harvest, Bellagio’s relatively new farm-to-table restaurant from longtime resort chef Roy Ellamar, has snack and dessert wagons, or carts, that travel from table to table, sort of like those in a dim sum place. As in those places, each table has a card that lists everything and gives the servers a place to mark what you’ve taken.

I know of only a handful of other local restaurants that have carts, whether they be dessert, beverage or whatever, so you think it would be presented with a flourish: “Here’s this, here’s that, ta-da!” But that wasn’t the case. When the staff member wheeled the cart up, it wasn’t close enough for us to see what was on it, so we just picked off the card, he served it and left, repeating the process at other tables.

Talk about hiding your light under a bushel. Ellamar has announced guest chefs for the snack cart, and if I were one of them, I’d want much more of a show than what’s going on now.

Our server did a better job with the dessert cart. After she wheeled it up she pointed to each thing in turn so we could decide by looking, not reading. And we were happy with our choices ($10 for three), a little berry tart, a chocolate-moussy dessert and a cup of creme brulee perfectly balanced between brittle sugar crust and rich eggy custard.

And OK, while I’m picking nits, here’s another one. Harvest is, as the name implies, a farm-to-table type of restaurant that serves food that’s as local as possible, considering we live in a big desert. So how come they ask you about bottled water first? Doesn’t farm-to-table apply to water, too?

But I don’t really mean to pick, because everything we had at Harvest was very well prepared and we liked the spare, streamlined interior that manages to split the difference between natural and contemporary with rock forming most of the walls, herbs in pots on the tables and the huge, four-sided, glass-enclosed kitchen.

The roasted half chicken, for example ($34). I’ve kind of had a secret favorite roast chicken in town, and this one blew that one right out of the oven. From a California source, it had been brined in local ale and smoked in-house, resulting in a crisp, deeply flavored skin and irresistibly moist meat.

We ordered the spring pasta garganelli ($21) because it was billed as containing local tomatoes, and they were very nice, grape-sized, sweet and tender. There also were tiny nubs of squash, sections of crisp, skinny asparagus, broccolini and an assortment of greens in which I thought I could detect the bitter austerity of arugula and the subtle anise of fennel, along with a shot of lemon.

A salad of mozzarella and tomatoes ($14) was billed as having hand-pulled cheese and the texture was suitably nice and chewy, the exterior lightly coated with oil and herbs. With it was a big pile of lightly dressed fresh arugula from Sandy Valley with a few sprigs of Thai basil.

And you probably want to know what we ordered from the snack wagon, right? It was billed as “charred eggplant” ($8), and if we had seen it we probably would’ve gone with something else because we didn’t expect a puree, although it was tasty enough. The cumin-seed-flecked papadum crackers on the side made for a nice combination, but not quite as nice as the cucumber-yogurt spread served with the breadsticks and lavosh before dinner.

Our server was a gem, and her team supported her well, refilling water classes promptly and not clearing plates too promptly, which is one of my pet peeves. All in all, it was a comfortable, pleasing experience with excellent food.

But this is Las Vegas, guys. Let’s go for the flourish.

Las Vegas Review-Journal restaurant reviews are done anonymously at Review-Journal expense. Email Heidi Knapp Rinella at hrinella@reviewjournal.com. Find more of her stories at www.reviewjournal.com, and follow @HKRinella on Twitter.

ad-high_impact_4
Entertainment
Artist Joshua Vides created a "White Wedding" chapel for Billy Idol's Las Vegas residency
Artist Joshua Vides created a "White Wedding" chapel for Billy Idol's Vegas residency (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Try the Burning History cocktail at Zuma In Las Vegas
Try the Burning History cocktail at Zuma In Las Vegas (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
CES final night showcases Drake at XS Nightclub
Drake performed for CES attendees and club-goers at XS Nightclub in Encore at Wynn Las Vegas in the early morning hours of Friday, Jan. 11, 2019. (John Katsilometes Las Vegas Review-Journal)
CES Happy Hour party at Hangover Suite at Caesars Palace
Conventioneers mingled during the Hardware Massive CES 2019 Happy Hour Bash at The Hangover Suite at Caesars Palace in Las Vegas. (K.M. Cannon/Las Vegas Review-Journal) @KMCannonPhoto
CES 2019 Has A Cordless Hair Dryer
CES Has A Cordless Hair Dryer (Janna Karel/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
CES Opening Party in Omnia Nightclub at Caesars Palace
CES conventioneers packed Omnia Nightclub at Caesars Palace, and let loose as they danced to DJs into the night. (K.M. Cannon/Las Vegas Review-Journal) @KMCannonPhoto
Print intricate designs, your pet or your face on your nails
Print intricate designs, your pet or your face on your nails (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
CES 2019: Panel talks Impossible Burger 2.0
Panel talks Impossible Burger at CES during launch at Border Grill on Monday, Jan. 7. (Ben Hager/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Momofuku Makes A Cocktail With Bok Choy And Beets
Momofuku Makes A Cocktail With Bok Choy And Beets (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
The Dream of AJ Montgomery
AJ Montgomery lost part of his leg in a vehicle accident but found his dream as a performer in “Le Reve.” (John Przybys/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Kelly Clinton-Holmes of the Stirling Club
John Katsilometes chats with Kelly Clinton-Holmes, director of the Stirling Club's New Year's Eve entertainment.
Month-by-month entertainment coming in 2019
“True Detective” Season 3, HBO (Jan. 13) Travis Scott, T-Mobile Arena (Feb. 6) Robbie Williams, Encore Theatre at Wynn Las Vegas (March 6, 8, 9, 13, 15 and 16) “Game of Thrones” Season 8, HBO (April) Electric Daisy Carnival, Las Vegas Motor Speedway (May 17-19) “Fiddler on the Roof,” The Smith Center (June 4-9) “The Lion King” (July 19) Psycho Las Vegas, Mandalay Bay (Aug. 16-18) Life is Beautiful, downtown Las Vegas (Sept. 20-22) “Tim Burton @ the Neon Museum” (Oct. 15) “Frozen 2” (Nov. 22) “Star Wars: Episode IX” (Dec. 20)
Lacey Huszcza invites you to find something to love at the Las Vegas Philharmonic
Lacey Huszcza, executive director of the Las Vegas Philharmonic talks about the orchestra's wealth of programming. (Janna Karel/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Gina Marinelli offers La Strega preview
Gina Marinelli used a pop-up New Year’s Eve dinner at Starboard Tack to preview items she’ll feature at her new Summerlin restaurant, La Strega. (Al Mancini/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
New Year’s Eve at Sparrow + Wolf
Sparrow + Wolf’s New Year’s Eve party was a sort of official unveiling of its newly renovated space. (Al Mancini/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Las Vegas NYE Fireworks - VIDEO
The full show: A spectacular view from the rooftop of the Trump International Hotel as 80,000 pyrotechnics illuminated the Las Vegas Strip at the stroke of midnight. Fireworks by Grucci choreographed launches from the Stratosphere, the Venetian, Treasure Island, Caesars Palace, Planet Hollywood, Aria and MGM Grand.
Debra Kelleher Of The Stirling Club
Debra Kelleher, DK Hospitality President talks with Johnny Kats about the reopening of the Stirling Club.
Richard Ditton Of The Stirling Club
Richard Ditton, an investment partner of the Stirling Club talks with Johnny Kats about the reopening of the club.
NYE at the Stirling Club
John Katsilometes reports from the reopening of the Stirling Club on New Year's Eve 2018.
Michael Stapleton of the Stirling Club
Michael Stapleton, COO of the Stirling Club talks with Johnny Kats about the reopening of the club.
Recap the Countdown on Fremont Street — VIDEO
Nearly 40,000 people packed Fremont Street to enjoy America's Party Downtown. As the tradition stands, Las Vegas Mayor Carolyn Goodman counted down the clock on the 3rd Street Stage, alongside her husband and former mayor, Oscar Goodman.
New Year's Eve live from the Las Vegas Strip Bellagio Fountains - Video
Reporter Aaron Drawhorn near the Bellagio Fountains as hundreds of thousands gather to celebrate New Year's Eve in Las Vegas
Ryan Reaves describes the flavors in Training Day beer
Ryan Reaves talks about the flavor of Training Day, the new beer from 7Five Brewing that was launched at the PKWY Tavern on West Flamingo Road. (Al Mancini/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Ryan Reaves describes his new beer
Golden Knights winger Ryan Reaves talks about his new beer from 7Five Brewing at a launch party at PKWY Tavern on West Flamingo Road. (Al Mancini/Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Vegas' five biggest NYE concerts
Imagine Dragons at The Chelsea at The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas, Lady Gaga at The Park Theater at Park MGM, Maroon 5 at the Mandalay Bay Events Center, Bruno Mars at T-Mobile Arena, and Tenacious D at The Joint at the Hard Rock Hotel & Casino.
Celebrate New Years Day, Hangover Day and Bloody Mary Day at Cabo Wabo
Celebrate New Years Day, Hangover Day and Bloody Mary Day at Cabo Wabo (Janna Karel Las Vegas Review-Journal)
Michael Symon, chef and owner of Mabel's BBQ, talks about his first Las Vegas restaurant
Michael Symon, chef and owner of Mabel's BBQ, talks about his first Las Vegas restaurant. Bizuayehu Tesfaye @bizutesfaye
New American Eagle flagship on the Las Vegas Strip lets you customize your clothing
American Eagle flagship on the Las Vegas Strip lets you customize your clothing
Bellagio Conservatory display is Majestic Holiday Magic
Majestic Holiday Magic at the Bellagio Conservatory
Las Vegas Ready for 2019 NYE Fireworks Show
The city of Las Vegas is ready to celebrate "America's Party" with a new and improved fireworks show that will pay tribute to the Golden Knights.
TOP NEWS
News Headlines
Home Front Page Footer Listing
Circular
You May Like

You May Like