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Only-in-Las Vegas vintage restaurants for those attending CES

Las Vegas has a history of destroying its history. This is a place where everything old is new again only when it really is new — the equivalent of a CES attendee trashing his or her iPhone the second the new one comes out.

That extends to restaurants as much as resorts, neighborhoods or anything else. Yet somehow a few manage to survive the implosions around them, thriving even as tastes change and usher in a legion of new, trendier spots. Here are five:

Golden Steer Steakhouse

If you miss the Rat Pack era in Las Vegas, the Golden Steer is the place for you. The restaurant opened in 1958, and those legendary performers used to show up here on a regular basis; Sinatra’s favorite booth was even labeled — until management wearied of people swiping the sign. The food leans heavily to steaks, as you might expect, plus tableside preparations of Caesar salad, Chateaubriand, cherries jubilee and bananas Foster. And how can you resist a restaurant that refers to a filet mignon as “the aristocrat of tenderness?”

308 W. Sahara Ave., 702-384-4470, goldensteerlasvegas.com



Hugo’s Cellar

Hugo’s also does tableside bananas Foster and cherries jubilee, but even the dinner salads are prepared at your elbow; choose from among 10 toppings for your romaine, delivered on a rolling cart. There are throwback dishes such as Hugo’s Hot Rock Specialty for Two (meats and seafoods you cook on a hot granite slab), escargots en croute, duckling anise flambe and beef Wellington, and every female customer gets a red rose.

Four Queens, 702-385-4011, hugoscellar.com

Pamplemousse

You want to argue with the late, great Bobby Darin? He reportedly gave the restaurant its whimsical moniker (“pamplemousse” is the mellifluous French term for the lowly grapefruit) because of his friendship with and appreciation for founder Georges La Forge, who passed away in March . In operation since 1976, the restaurant is in an old house, and the nook-and-cranny layout is a large part of its charm. So is the formal French service, and quirky specialties such as the Easter-basket-sized cascade of crudites that starts off the meal.

400 E. Sahara Ave., 702-733-2066, pamplemousserestaurant.com

Peppermill

Sure, the Peppermill is “just” a coffee shop, but there’s a reason it’s thrived on the Las Vegas Strip since 1972. If you’re looking for an only-in-Vegas vibe, it’d be tough to beat the Jetsons-crashed-onto-a-Southern-plantation decor (or the funky ’70s lounge, complete with conversation pit with fire-and-water feature and drinks such as the 64-ounce Scorpion). The food is classic American, fresh and varied and in portions to suit a longshoreman. Don’t believe us? Try the fresh fruit salad in half of a pineapple.

2895 Las Vegas Blvd. South, 702-735-4177, peppermilllasvegas.com

Marrakech

Sure, showing skin is a time-honored tradition in Las Vegas, but you’d be hard-pressed to find many places that have their own belly dancers. Dinner is a six-course prix-fixe affair that won’t blow the mortgage, and the atmosphere, regularly refurbished since Marrakech opened in 1979, is a great place to sit on a satiny pillow and imagine you’re indulging at the casbah.

3900 Paradise Road, 702-737-5611, marrakechvegas.com

Contact Heidi Knapp Rinella at hrinella@reviewjournal.com or 702-383-0474. Follow @HKRinella on Twitter.

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