Wine of the Week: Petite Petit Red Wine

Wine: Petite Petit Red Wine

Grape: Petite Sirah (85 percent), Petit Verdot (15 percent)

Region: Lodi, Calif.

Vintage: 2010

Price: $12.99 per bottle.

Availability: Lee’s Discount Liquors, Total Wine &More

In the glass: This Petite Petit is as dense and black as the night with a completely inky-purple core going out into a deep purple rim definition with medium-high painted viscosity.

On the nose: It is nothing short of a black fruit bomb with immensely concentrated blueberry, marionberry and crushed huckleberries, then meaty black cherries and toasted oak. There are hints of roasted meat, lead pencil and phenolic compounds, but it is decidedly fruit-driven rather than earthy and has a massive presence in the glass.

On the palate: This wine is a sheer orgy of blueberry in the purest sense of the fruit, with such extraction and concentration that it is almost chewable, but it is not heavy and overbearing, rather fruit-laden and delicious with just touches of spice and wood going through the midpalate and into a nice and surprisingly delicate finish, cementing that there’s a serious effort behind this.

Odds and ends: This wine is a great effort from the active and savvy team at Michael David Vineyards. Although Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon has been having follies with wine labels and names for a quarter of a century before this was ever conceived, it is still a clever and colorful label full of circus elephants and stories of the “Pachyderm Brothers,” all for kicks and giggles and the kind of irreverence originally conceived by Grahm. The bottle in itself is appropriately “chubby” and matches the content in the sense that this is a seriously full-bodied wine blended from two of the biggest and most concentrated grape varieties grown in California. The name of the wine is quite simply a combination of the two kinds of Petite spellings in the grape names and fair enough, because it is fully loaded with Lodi fruit. Lodi is actually one of those California American Viticultural Areas that can easily be said to grow some of the ripest and most massive fruit from grapes like Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and Petit Verdot, which is difficult to ripen in most other areas and not usually used for the main components in blended wines. This is a great success of a wine and it is well priced for just under $13 per bottle. Highly recommended. Drink now through 2017 and pair it with a fully stacked pizza as it can cut through just about anything.

Gil Lempert-Schwarz’s wine column appears Wednesdays. Write him at P.O. Box 50749, Henderson, NV 89106-0749, or email him at gil@winevegas.com.

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