Showcase spring veggies with whole wheat pasta primavera

Let’s admit it, whole wheat pasta is misunderstood.

It’s different from the white, semolina pasta — nuttier, denser and toastier — and delicious when allowed to shine in its own right. Don’t use it as a one-to-one swap; rather, lean into its nutty flavor and grainy texture. It’s a perfect match for savory, earthy and/or oniony sauces with richness and depth.

Like white pasta, it is best cooked in a big pot of rapidly boiling salted water, but drained earlier, when the noodles are at the “toothy” stage of al dente. Err on the side of undercooked, and start tasting the noodles a few minutes before they seem done. Be sure to reserve some of that pasta water; it contains starch from the noodles and can help enrich any accompanying sauces. Thanks to whole wheat pasta’s heartier texture, it can be cooked a day in advance and leftovers keep their bite even after a day or two in the fridge.

The newest addition to my pasta pantry is Kernza pasta, made from the relatively new perennial grain. Kernza is a cousin of wheat, and its ecological services can’t be overstated: It is drought- and pest-resistant and reduces nitrogen runoff and soil erosion. But I choose it because it tastes so good. It’s nutty and complex with a firm and toothsome texture.

The twisty fusilli shape holds even the most delicate sauces. Given its hearty flavor and robust texture, it doesn’t take much to turn this pasta into a quick and easy spring meal. I like to keep things simple — lots of vegetables, fresh herbs, a splash of lemon, dollops of cream and a sprinkling of sharp cheese.

Whole wheat pasta dishes are the best way to showcase spring vegetables. Toss asparagus, ramps, peas, mushrooms, spinach, watercress into a pasta primavera (or spring pasta) and celebrate the Earth’s delights.

Whole Wheat Pasta Primavera

Packed with fresh, bright, seasonal vegetables, this pasta makes a simple dinner. Use fresh herbs if possible and plenty of lemon juice to make things pop. Whole wheat pasta is best slightly undercooked; the familiar white will work beautifully here, as well.

Servings: 4

Ingredients

10 oz. fusilli or penne pasta

2 to 3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

2 cloves garlic, diced

1 small shallot, diced

2 handfuls fresh spinach, torn, about 3 cups

2 cups fresh or frozen peas, thawed

3 tbsp. lemon juice, to taste

¼ cup chopped fresh parsley, plus more for garnish

¼ cup chopped fresh basil

2 tbsp. chopped fresh thyme

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Pinch red pepper flakes

Directions

Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil. Cook pasta according to package directions until just tender, but still firm. Reserve about 1 cup of the pasta cooking water before draining the pasta.

Film a large skillet with the oil and set over medium-low heat. Add the garlic and shallot and cook until they begin to soften. Toss in the spinach and peas and sauté until just tender, about 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in ¼ cup of the pasta cooking water, the lemon juice and the cooked pasta. Toss in the fresh herbs and season to taste with salt, pepper and red pepper flakes. Serve garnished with chopped parsley.