Red, white wines of the year offer good value to consumers

At the top end of the market, there was unprecedented buying to the point of frenzy in some instances, and the prices of the finest and rarest wines continued to soar.

At the other end of the scale, consumers could find an increasing number of inspiring wines for less than $10. (Sadly, that may come to an end with the sinking dollar against major currencies.)

This is the first year in which Americans will drink more wine than beer, according to research conducted by the Wine Institute of California. I think bargain prices are turning people onto wine, because a bottle is roughly the price of a six-pack of beer. But wine is seen as a far more sophisticated drink in terms of social situations and for dining purposes.

In the past year, I have tasted more than 920 wines to find the best ones for this column. There were 43 red wines and seven white wines, as well as three champagnes. This is the typical ratio of reds to whites.

Of the wines selected for review, seven countries and distinct viticultural regions were represented, pretty much like last year. France came out on top in 2007 with 13 wines reviewed, representing roughly 25 percent of all wines reviewed, followed closely by Italy and America, each with nine wines reviewed, making the numbers a bit more balanced this year.

As for the wines of the year, the criteria is quality, value, breed and overall experience.

The Red Wine of the Year is Full House Central Coast Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 from California. It generated more than 1,200 e-mail questions about where to buy it. It also offered the best value.

The tasting notes from Nov. 28 read: In the glass, Full House Cabernet Sauvignon is a medium ruby-red color with a fine dark core going out into a clean pinkish rim definition with light viscosity.

On the nose, there is pungent crushed black currant fruit, white pepper notes, blackberry marmalade, blueberry juice and hints of new oak, minerals and vanilla notes.

In the mouth, the wine immediately fills your palate and coats your tongue with intensely concentrated sweet black fruit components, crushed blackberries, creme de cassis and ripe Bing cherry flavors. It has a wonderfully balanced midpalate, with the fruit and tannins in complete harmony, right through to the lengthy — seemingly a full 20-plus seconds — and interestingly fruity finish showing lots of sweetness.

This wine remains available in local stores.

Runners-up for the red wines are Chateau Coufran 2003, which is a great example of Bordeaux at its best for less than $20 (reviewed Sept. 5) and St. Hallett Gamekeepers Reserve 2005, a delicious wine from Australia (reviewed May 9).

The White Wine of the Year is Chateau Schonborn Rheingau Riesling 2003. This is the second year in a row that I have chosen a German Riesling wine for top honors.

German Rieslings are versatile and can be consumed with any kind of food. They usually are lower in alcohol and make excellent aperitifs, too.

My tasting notes from June 6 read: In the glass, Chateau Schonborn Riesling is a faint light golden yellow with a clean, clear starbright appearance, showing a translucent core going out into a glass-clear rim definition with just hints of greenish tinge and medium viscosity.

On the nose, there are nicely concentrated notes of Bosque pears, Braeburn apples, white stone fruit, grapefruit segments, Kaffir lime and hints of white flowers with warm minerality emanating from the bowl of the glass.

On the palate, the wine is expansive with lovely delineated white fruit, crushed pear skins, sweetish applesauce, clean, bright citrus character and hints of green melon, Rainier cherries and chalky minerals. The midpalate is soft and balanced and the feeling of harmony between acidity and fruit is constant through the bright, rounded finish with just a little zest of sweetness to remind us that this is a great spatlese wine in disguise.

This wine also was a good buy.

Runners-up among the white wines are the deliciously inexpensive Colombelle 2006 from France (reviewed July 18) and the Kris Pinot Grigio 2005 from Italy (reviewed January 24), which showcases this popular grape varietal nicely for less than $10.

With Las Vegas gaining recognition from the highly respected dining publication Michelin’s Red Guide and the promise of more top restaurants with accompanying wine lists opening in 2008, I can only say that it is a pleasure helping consumers find the great little wines available in the market.

I wish you a prosperous and happy new year.

Red Wine of the Year: Full House Central Coast Cabernet Sauvignon

Grapes: Cabernet sauvignon (85 percent), merlot (15 percent)

Region: Central Coast, Calif.

Vintage: 2005

Cost: $2.99

White Wine of the Year: Chateau Schonborn Rheingau Riesling

Grape: Riesling

Region: Rheingau, Germany

Vintage: 2003

Cost: $8.99

Gil Lempert-Schwarz’s wine column appears Wednesdays. Write him at P.O. Box 50749, Henderson, NV 89016-0749, or e-mail him at gil@winevegas.com.