Dining Pick of the Week: Taqueria El Paisano

PICK OF THE WEEK:

TAQUERIA EL PAISANO

3300 S. Decatur Blvd. at Desert Inn Road, 702-207-6606

It's a given that many of the best restaurants can be found in small strip malls. We drive by them every day without knowing they are even there or how good the food really is. This small place seats fewer than 20 but has some delicious Mexican dishes. Combinations plates are served with rice, beans and a salad and include three tacos, burrito and taco, three enchiladas, two chile rellenos, and three taquitos. Popular breakfasts (desayunos) are huevos rancheros, eggs with ham or chorizo and huevos a la Mexicana. Shrimp is served a la diabla or rancheros or as a small or large cold shrimp cocktail. Other entrees feature steak, chicken, al pastor (marinated pork), lengua (beef tongue), tripe and buche (cheek). There is menudo and a soup of the day, along with ceviche tostadas, hamburgers, Mexican nachos, sandwiches and regular, wet or California burritos. The one dessert is flan, that delicate caramel custard. Among the "aquas frescas" are Horchata, Jamaica, Pina and Tamarindo, along with a variety of Mexican sodas. Combination plates are $6.75, and breakfast begins at $4.75. Taqueria El Paisano is open daily from 7:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m.

- Jack Bulavsky