Celebrate Valentine’s Day with sparkling wine

I found the perfect wine for Valentine's Day. It comes in the surprising form of an American sparkling wine from New Mexico, Gruet Demi-Sec NV, made in the traditional French methode champenoise.

Gruet winery is a serious operation that, against all odds, creates good quality wines. The Gruet family from Champagne, France, found success in vines planted near Truth or Consequences, N.M., about 150 miles south of Albuquerque, in the mid-1980s. The vineyards are at 4,300 feet, which makes them among the highest altitude plantings in the country.

The entire range of champagne-like wines from this company can seriously compete with midlevel champagnes from France in blind tastings. The demi-sec, literally meaning half-dry, is sweet in taste.

What better way to show appreciation for your sweetheart, than with a little taste of French romance from the deep Southwest? And for less than $10, it's a good buy.

In the glass, Gruet Demi-Sec NV has a lovely, light-golden appearance, with a clean, crisp, color, fine bubbles rising from the bottom of the glass and just a hint of greenish tint going out into the rim with medium-high viscosity.

On the nose, it is an absolute delight, exuding fresh pear sparkler, apple skins, citrus rind, winter melon, grassy herbs, mandarin oranges and liquid minerals.

On the palate, the spritzy mouth-feel is immediate and pungent, with a plethora of delicious taste-teasers, such as honeyed pears, sweetish Braeburn apple sorbet, white cranberry juice, Key lime pie, lemon meringue and mandarins. Gruet Demi-Sec NV has a really nice structure and complexity through the midpalate, which is generous.

This is a wine that is not too sweet, so you can have several glasses. It can be enjoyed on its own, well-chilled to 43 degrees Fahrenheit, but should you wish to supplement it with bites of Reese's Peanut Butter Cups, you won't be too far off. Given that it is a nonvintage, it will last you through to next New Year's Eve.

Wine: Gruet Demi-Sec NV

Grapes: Pinot noir (50 percent), chardonnay (50 percent)

Region: New Mexico

Price: $9.99

Gil Lempert-Schwarz's wine column appears Wednesdays. Write him at P.O. Box 50749, Henderson, NV 89016-0749, or e-mail him at gil@winevegas.com.