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Beat Champagne price increases

I don't want anyone to panic, but there's reason to be worried. This may be the last year we can enjoy buying imported Champagnes at a reasonable price.

The culprit is the rising Euro, which is forcing importers of Champagne to increase their prices to wholesalers, who in turn up the price to the stores, resulting in at least 25 percent to 30 percent being added to the final retail price of a bottle.

The great news is that this is not supposed to happen until January, so we have double reason for celebrating with this most coveted of all beverages, until the end of the year, and certainly for New Year's.

There are many wonderful Champagnes out there, but I have chosen to focus on three, one for every level of the market.

* Champagne Armand de Brignac's flashy new luxury cuvee dubbed "Ace of Spades" comes in the most bling bottle ever to hit the market. From the presentation in the black lacquered wooden box to the bottle -- which appears to be solid gold -- to the forged metal label, this is the choice for those who want to splurge.

It is a complex and racy wine with a beautiful golden hue in the glass. The nose exudes crushed pears, warm toast points and white flowers, and the palate is softly tingly and pleasing with a great amount of length and a nice lemon zesty finish that lingers.

* Champagne Krug is considered by many to be the ultimate luxury Champagne. Every year, small batches of Krug's Grande Cuvee are produced. There is no vintage designation on the bottle, but it probably is a complex multivintage blend that spends seven to 15 years in the making.

In the glass, the Krug Grande Cuvee is a light butter-yellow color. On the nose, it has crushed pistachios, pear souffle, fresh citrus spritz, leavened bread dough with freshly shelled walnuts and vanilla bean notes, while being full of fruit on the palate. It is rich and wonderfully balanced through the impressively complex finish.

* Champagne Perrier Jouet is most famous for its classic "Fleur de Champagne" bottle, which invokes the grand art nouveau age with its pretty white flowers. Its Grand Brut, which is available for less than $25, is the clear value of the year for bubblies. It normally retails for almost double this special price, and with the price increases coming, grab several bottles. It also makes an impressive gift.

It is a great Champagne to drink as well, showing lightly golden in the glass. On the nose, it has warm, toasty fruit with lots of apricot, citrus and apple underlying. It is tremendously soft on the palate and shows lovely complex flavors through the balanced finish. It is one of those Champagnes that is irresistible in terms of a second and third glass.

I recommend that you serve Champagne chilled to 38 degrees Fahrenheit in a white wineglass for maximum olfactory exposure and forget pairing them with anything but your palate.

I wish you happy holidays and encourage you to exercise caution when you drink and drive. If you feel you have had a little too much, call Designated Drivers at 456-7433 and they will pick you up and take both you and your car safely home for a nominal fee.

Wine: Champagne Armand de Brignac Ace of Spades

Grapes: Chardonnay, pinot noir, pinot meunier

Region: Reims, Champagne, France

Vintage: Nonvintage

Price: $299.99

Wine: Champagne Krug Grande Cuvee

Grapes: Chardonnay, pinot noir, pinot meunier

Region: Reims, Champagne, France

Vintage: Nonvintage

Price: $189.99

Wine: Champagne Perrier Jouet Grand Brut

Grapes: Chardonnay, pinot noir, pinot meunier

Region: Reims, Champagne, France

Vintage: Nonvintage

Price: $24.99

Gil Lempert-Schwarz's wine column appears Wednesdays. Write him at P.O. Box 50749, Henderson, NV 89016-0749, or e-mail him at gil@winevegas.com.

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