Creaming the Competition

Ice cream without added sugar? It's like a king without a castle, a queen without a throne, a ship without an anchor ... well, let's just say the thought doesn't make most people feel like shining, shining like brand new ... (with apologies to Supertramp).

Yet that's what we asked members of the Las Vegas Losers to taste: vanilla ice cream, no sugar added. They tasted five ice creams that are available in local supermarkets and seem to appeal most to diabetics and those who, like the members of the Review-Journal-sponsored Losers, are trying to keep their weight under control. And the verdict?

"Very good. Great. I need more. AWESOME!"

A little surprising, no? Yet that was the comment from Paular M. Cornejo, regarding the taste-test winner, Breyers Double Churned No Sugar Added. That Breyers label averaged a rating of 8.95 on a 10-point scale from our 10 testers. And Cornejo clearly wasn't the only taster who liked it.

"I think this one tastes most like regular ice cream," said Colleen Mofford. "I'd buy this one."

"Not too sweet; just right," said Alice McCain. "Good and creamy."

The other ice creams tasted included a sister variety to the winner, Breyers Carb Smart, plus Blue Bunny No Sugar Added Reduced Fat, Dreyer's Slow Churned No Sugar Added and Safeway Select Fat Free No Sugar Added. They were evaluated in a double-blind test for flavor, texture, aftertaste, mouth feel and overall quality. The Breyers No Sugar Added ranked first in all categories except mouth feel, where it was beat out by Blue Bunny, which came in second in all other categories. (Breyers No Sugar Added was second in mouth feel, giving these two brands a lock on all categories.)

Blue Bunny was the favorite of John O'Connor, who said he'd buy Breyers No Sugar Added only if the Blue Bunny weren't available. (Conversely, McCain said she'd buy the Blue Bunny only if the Breyers No Sugar Added was not available.)

"Surprised at how good it tasted," O'Connor said of the Blue Bunny.

"This would satisfy my taste," said Venetta Wilson.

"Are you sure this is sugar-free?" Mofford asked.

"Sweet, creamy ... thick -- bright white," said Anne Gravett.

"Liked the taste," said Jeff Mank. "Little bit of coating left behind on the roof of the mouth.

The tasters' least-favorite ice cream was Dreyer's, which earned a 5.9 average overall rating.

"Would not buy it!" said Nancy Kinder.

"Not pleasing to my taste," Wilson said.

"Bad flavor and aftertaste," McCain said.

"Not as much flavor -- very milky, not vanilla," said Laura Alton.

"Too thick, mucusy, artificial-tasting," Gravett said.

"Did not feel as good on my throat as others," O'Connor said.

"Not a good taste; lower quality," Mank said.

But back to Breyers No Sugar Added, and here's the best news: It was lowest in calories of all that were tasted, at just 80 calories per  1/2-cup serving. It also was lower than most of the others in sodium, at 45 milligrams per serving, and ranked well in fat (4 grams per serving, compared to 5 grams for Blue Bunny and 10 for Breyers Carb Smart) and even carbohydrates, with 14 grams, compared to 16 grams for Blue Bunny and 12 grams for Breyers Carb Smart. And the last-ranked Dreyer's didn't fare better nutritionally, with 100 calories, 3 grams of fat, 70 milligrams of sodium and 14 grams of carbohydrates in a  1/2-cup serving.

Which proves that sometimes, less really isn't more.