French grape varietal makes big hit in California wine

Fred Cline is an innovator in the California wine industry, and his mourvedre rosé is an excellent representation of what the French have been bottling for generations.

When making big, sturdy red wines in the south of France, winemakers usually "bleed" the tanks during fermentation and before the grape skins have instilled a deep color in the wine. This results in a fruity little wine, without the normal amount of alcohol and not quite the color of red wine.

To see a rosé from California made from this French grape varietal is unexpected, but it works and the wine is delicious and perfect for this time of the year.

In the glass, Cline Cellars Mourvedre Rosé is a vivid sockeye salmon red, with a bright core going out into a glass-clear rim definition with medium viscosity.

On the nose, there are lovely extracted ripe red currants, red stone fruit, red plum skins, macerated rhubarb, and cleanly delineated accents of pure fruit and hints of minerals. There's no trace of wood.

The palate is pure pleasure, with crushed, sweetish, mixed red berries interlaced with juicy grapey characteristics and chalky minerals, offering a rounded, crisp taste. The midpalate carries through the fruit into a finish that is light and vibrant. You'll want more than one glass of this thirst-quenching solution to the summer heat.

Serve it chilled to 50 degrees Fahrenheit and it should be an excellent match for grilled chicken breast. It will drink well this summer and next, but rosé wines generally are not made to age.

Wine: Cline Cellars Mourvedre Rosé

Grapes: Mourvedre

Region: Contra Costa County, Calif.

Vintage: 2006

Price: $9.99

Gil Lempert-Schwarz's wine column appears Wednesdays. Write him at P.O. Box 50749, Henderson, NV 89016-0749, or e-mail him at gil@winevegas.com.