Hanging out in La Jolla

A lot of important and interesting people have lived in La Jolla, Calif., from the detective novelist Raymond Chandler to Raquel Welch to a long list of gifted scientists. My 12-year-old daughter and I decided earlier this month to go see why people who could live anywhere they choose so often settle there.

The first thing we noticed was the weather. Less than half a day's drive from Las Vegas, we escaped the broiling desert into a Mediterranean climate with average daily temperatures in the mid-70s. And the second was the concentration of attractions within minutes of each other, which enabled us to pack a great many activities into a two-night stay. There was the outdoor play of body surfing and kayaking along breathtaking beaches but also culture at the Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego, and science at the Scripps Institution of Oceanography. Now part of the city of San Diego, La Jolla has maintained a separate identity and is noted for wealth and culture.

It was early afternoon when we arrived, so we made our first stop at La Jolla Shores and bounded into the surf, desert denizens overwhelmed by the sudden abudance of water. It took an hour or so to satisfy our needs before we headed just a few miles to check into our hotel, La Valencia.

Sometimes called "The Pink Lady of La Jolla," this historic hotel, first opened in 1926, is a local landmark with its signature mosaic-tiled tower and its appealing shade of light pink stucco. The location can't be beat, as it not only overlooks the Pacific Ocean, but also lies in the heart of La Jolla's downtown area, a lively village full of art galleries, clothing stores, boutiques, restaurants, cafes and historic buildings.

In days of old, La Valencia was an elegant hideaway for Hollywood stars such as Groucho Marx, Lillian Gish and Mary Pickford. Even today, it is sought out by movers and shakers such as entrepreneur Martha Stewart, stars Oprah Winfrey and Clint Eastwood, and California Gov. Arnold Schwarzenegger. The hotel is a mix of fully modern conveniences, antiques and old charm such as Charlotte's favorite, the elevator. A female operator dressed in a suit would manually close the interior door, which worked by folding rather than sliding as modern elevator doors do, then pull a lever to start our journey up or down.

The Mediterranean-styled hotel has 115 guest rooms, suites and villas. We stayed in what La Valencia modestly calls a "standard" guest room; it was actually luxurious, with a marble bathroom and operable windows, permitting guests to enjoy marvelous ocean breezes and smells. You easily could wile away days in the lap of luxury here, especially at one of the hotel's 15 ocean villas, which range from 400 to 1,200 square feet, each complete with a private terrace and butler service.

The next morning we were up early and eager. A drive of a few minutes brought us to La Jolla Shores, where we had arranged for a two-hour guided trip with La Jolla Kayak. We have done a lot of kayaking, but this would be quite different as we were headed out onto the ocean for about one mile to visit seven sea caves we had heard about. If the tide and weather cooperated, we even would be able to go into one.

Ryan McInerney, our guide for the morning, didn't waste any time getting us suited up in wetsuits, life preservers and helmets. I would be paddling my own kayak while Charlotte was teamed up with McInerney. Charlotte is a game and energetic voyager, but still the smallest of us three, so if the surf picked up, I wanted her in the vessel with the strongest paddler.

From the shore, the surf wasn't high, perhaps only a few feet, but it was tricky trying to maneuver my kayak up and over the waves without being brought back into shore. McInerney and Charlotte seemed to effortlessly head out, and I soon got the hang of it. We skirted the coastline for a bit searching for leopard sharks. It didn't take long for Charlotte to spot one. Harmless to humans, these can grow five to six feet in length and are common in these shallow waters just off the shore.

Next, we headed over to an area where sea caves open at the base of the sandstone cliffs. As we paddled along, McInerney pointed out the various formations such as White Lady, Arch Cave and Sunny Jim's Cave. When he started paddling into one called The Clam, I thought the swell was too rough to succeed. But he and Charlotte slipped inside so easily, I was ashamed not to follow. McInerney had said the secret was to paddle all the way inside until it widens, then quickly turn the kayak around. When you do that, for some reason the waves hold your vessel pretty much in one position, just lightly rocking you back and forth.

We finished our tour by paddling up to the edge of Emerald Cove, where we were able to get within a dozen yards or so of some sea lions, pelicans and cormorants just hanging out on a rocky ledge along the shore. We then headed back to our launch site. I especially enjoyed the thrill of surfing the waves in the kayak right into the beach.

After our outdoor adventure, we headed over to the Birch Aquarium at Scripps, located on a bluff overlooking the world-renowned Scripps Institution of Oceanography at the University of California-San Diego. The aquarium houses more than 5,000 live specimens, including more than 380 species of fish and invertebrates. Our first stop was at the Hall of Fishes, which features more than 60 tanks of Pacific fish and invertebrates who live in the area from the Pacific Northwest down to Mexico and the Caribbean.

Within the hall is the two-story, 70,000 gallon tank that features a live kelp forest and about 200 fish, representing 35-40 species that live in this ecologically important habitat. Some we recognized were leopard shark, barracuda, giant sea bass and a garibaldi, the bright orange California state fish. We had arrived just before one of the most popular shows the aquarium offers, the Kelp Tank Dive Show. Here, audience members gather in front of the tank and watch as a diver enters the tank to clean it and feed the fish. The most novel wrinkle here is that modern technology enables divers to take questions from the visitors and provide answers while still underwater.

We watched as Melissa Roth, volunteer diver and scientist, outfitted in scuba gear, descended into the tank. At first, we just watched her clean the inside of the tank, but the real fun began when she brought out the feeding bucket. A giant sea bass, the largest fish in the tank, was eager to eat and because of her enormous size, she easily stole the show. One of the children in the audience asked what this bass liked to eat, Roth, noting the fish's size, joked, "We give her whatever she wants."

This big bass favors mackerel and doesn't much care for squid. But she must not be too picky, for she already weighs 250 pounds though she is only about 20 years old. Her kind can live more than 75 years, grow to eight feet long and can weigh more than 700 pounds.

Another child asked if Roth was scared of any of the fish in the tank. She responded that she wasn't scared of the giant sea bass, but admitted, "I am afraid of feeding the halibut because of their quick jaws, that it might get a piece of my hand."

Leaving the Hall of Fishes, we headed outside to visit Tide Pool Plaza. There, man-made pools are filled with animals native to the area's natural versions. Charlotte got to gently touch sea stars, sea cucumbers and other creatures.

Other exhibits include a 13,000-gallon tank devoted to species that are found in tropical reef habitats, such as whitetip and blacktip reef sharks and wobbegongs. There is also an extremely in-depth and highly educational exhibit titled, "Feeling the Heat: The Climate Challenge," and another worth seeing, "The Wonders of Water."

We switched gears that afternoon, heading over to the Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego, located just a few minutes' walk from our hotel. Now through Sept. 6, the museum is featuring an exhibit titled "MIX: Nine San Diego Architects and Designers." Those whose work is shown graduated from architecture school during the 1980s. They belong to seven different firms, so seven project rooms were set up, and each firm used the space as it saw fit.

This is not your typical exhibit of just models and plans. It shows what went on behind the scenes from development through finished projects, and is intended to reveal how creative minds work. For instance, at the installation by designer Sabastian Marical, you enter through a narrow tunnel of used 2-by-4s. Surrounded by the smell of fresh cut wood, you come into a room that looks to be in active use, with empty Starbucks cups, a wine bottle, random pieces of paper and crew photographs.

After taking in all the indoor exhibits, we headed outside to tour the Edwards Garden Gallery and its sculptures. Our favorite was the colorful and towering 11-foot "Big Ganesh" sculpture by French artist Niki de Saint Phalle. From the garden, we also were able to get a complete look at the permanently displayed and gravity-defying "Pleasure Point," made up of canoes, surfboards, skiffs and other watercraft by artist Nancy Rubins. Coincidentally, Rubins just installed a similar, yet far larger sculpture called "Big Edge," at MGM Mirage's CityCenter in Las Vegas.

There are several restaurants at the La Valencia, each with its own charm. The Whaling Bar and Grill is perhaps best known, as it can be accessed from the street as well as the lobby and is a upscale locals hangout, especially during happy hour. It has the feel of a pub with a dark mahogany bar and interior, leather banquettes and wooden shutters. Even if you don't grab a drink or eat here, it's worth a look inside. A couple of things not to be missed are the mural over the bar titled "Whale's Last Stand," by artist Wing Howard, and the framed collection of delicately carved ivory scrimshaw.

We were planning on supper in this agreeable retreat, but it was such a perfect evening that we could not bring ourselves to miss the sunset, so we decided to eat in an adjacent room, offering the Whaling B&G menu but also a wide ocean view. We had worked up quite an appetite, so every entrée seemed enticing. Choices ranged from fillet mignon and veal Marsala, to a wide variety of seafood dishes such as sole and halibut. I ordered Paella Valencia, a hearty mix of shrimp, lobster, scallops and other seafood combined with just the correct amount of sausage and rice.

The meal was fresh and delicious, surpassed only by the ocean view and the company I kept with my daughter. This is the pattern I recommend for anyone's trip to La Jolla: Bring along someone you love, for food, views, and moments this satisfying were made to share.

Contact Deborah Wall at deborabus@aol.com.