Shagreen adds pebbly texture to many items

My long-held fascination with a rare and exotic finish began some years ago on my first trip to Asia. Tokyo was my initial stop and it was glorious and exciting despite the intense July heat and humidity — a condition that the local population described as “sah-oona” (sauna). And believe me, it was.

Still, nothing could dampen my expectations regarding a special welcome that my hosts had arranged to take place at a 400-year-old thatch-roof cottage on an acre of land in the heart of the city. I kept wondering who could be rich enough to have a house like that on a huge piece of land where space was at such a premium.

I was to be the guest of honor for a formal Japanese tea ceremony, and I could hardly believe my good fortune nor did I ever expect my visit to lead to my love affair with shagreen.

The woman of the house, graciously attired in a traditional Japanese kimono, was there to greet me at the front door with her affable husband at her side. I was ushered in and after further introductions and exchange of presents (an absolute tradition in Japan), we were seated and the tea ceremony began. It was as fascinating and special as any experience I’ve ever had before or since.

After a while, the husband rose (as we were naturally seated on the floor on tatami mats and cushions) and adjourned to another room while it was explained to me that he wanted to share something very special for the occasion. I thought they had already shared quite enough with me, but the best was yet to come.

The master of the house soon returned carrying a huge sword which he explained (via the interpreter) was a real samurai weapon — seemingly in mint condition — that he had found in the house. And that’s when it happened.

I immediately noticed an unusual pebbly textured material on the sword’s hilt. When I questioned what that material might be, a history lesson on shagreen poured forth from the husband and I surmised that he, too, must be equally intrigued by this unusual finish.

Through the interpreter’s rapid speech, I learned that “shagreen” is based on the Middle Eastern word “shagri” which is the description of a rough hide and is made from the skins of small sharks and ray fish. Its unusual and distinctive texture has made it interesting and different from so many other materials and for such a long, long time.

He said it’s thought to have been valued since the time of the pharaohs and during the Chinese Han dynasty (206 B.C.-A.D. 220). But it’s been better documented and preserved since it first began appearing on the sword hilts and armor of Japanese samurai during the Middle Ages, partly because its texture provided a reliable grip.

I could attest to that as I ran my fingers around that precious and incredible material, not daring to pick up that remarkable instrument of death myself.

I eventually learned that the greater skill of working this material was brought to France during the reign of Louis XIV, when hides were used extensively for inlay work on snuff and pillboxes, sword hilts and even scientific instruments. The hides were then tanned, dyed, filled and treated (a difficult process) so that shagreen became a most sophisticated material to work with and a true luxury item.

The unusual texture and extreme durability caught the eye of the French aristocracy who then turned this new material into a popular fashion.

But, in modern times, its real renaissance started in the 1920s when it caught the interest of England’s Prince of Wales. The prince, who later became the Duke of Windsor, commissioned tables, shooting sticks, humidors, cigarette cases and even toe caps for his shoes in this rare material, and the infatuation with shagreen began all over again.

In the art deco period, furniture designers such as Clement Rousseau and Jean-Michel Frank used it to create their most sumptuous furniture signifying luxury and exoticism which remains with us to this day. They recognized it as a sophisticated material that could be used to create a stunning look when veneered in different patterns from rectangles to sunbursts, always with a still subtle and elegant effect.

There is some controversy over whether shagreen is an environmentally correct material. Although some people claim that its use may threaten the species, designers who use the material (such as me) insist that the practice does no harm, often using only sustainably sourced remnants from the fishing industry.

Faux shagreen today, made from resins so fine and detailed that it’s almost impossible to tell the difference when it’s glued on furniture and gift items, is used more often than the real thing, which is a blessing for all the sharks and rays in the world. But, mastering faux shagreen is itself an art and even top-quality imitations can often be expensive.

For shagreen lovers with smaller design budgets, faux shagreen is also available as a vinyl material and in leather, too. With vinyl there is a repeating pattern that renders it far less costly than the real deal, which remains so expensive because of the small area of fish skin that can be used.

Whether genuine or faux and however understated shagreen may be, it conjures total luxury. Nowadays it’s usually seen on small accessory items as well as on larger pieces of furniture. But, it’s the touches of shagreen that add such interesting texture and color variation when blended with finished woods and metals. They help to create elegant and distinctive pieces for the home with quality and style to last a lifetime.

Stephen Leon is a licensed interior designer and president of Soleil Design; he has been designing and manufacturing custom furniture and cabinetry for more than 25 years. He is president of the Central California/Nevada Chapter of the American Society of Interior Designers (World Market Center, Suite A3304) and is a certified professional in green residential design. Questions can be sent to soleildesign@cox.net.