Il Tarocco delivers classic Italian Chianti

For decades, the best-known wines of Italy came from the famous appellation of Chianti in the heart of the Tuscan hills.

Then, suddenly, there was a resurgence of interest in making great wines. Areas of Italy that had been mediocre flourished, developing blockbuster-styled, internationally sought-after wines.

All the while, Chianti plodded along, making use of its top-class growing conditions by improving the quality of its wines, too.

Il Tarocco is an excellent example of a traditional producer that employs modern techniques, while still using the best-known indigenous grape varietal, sangiovese.

According to the Italian classification and appellation laws, Chianti Classico of the highest levels must have something other than sangiovese blended in to achieve this standard. In Il Tarocco, the hearty cannaiolo grape is used.

Coming from the fantastic 2005 vintage, there's much to be excited about with this wine, especially the price tag at less than $9 per bottle, when $25 to $30 would be the norm.

In the glass, Il Tarocco Chianti is a deep black cherry-red color with a dense core going out into a fine, light ruby-red rim definition with medium viscosity.

On the nose, there's an immediate attack of black plums, Morrello cherry juice, crushed black currants, soft buttery notes of violet-laden cranberry sorbet, and just hints of new oak with its typical vanilla character and some good, sweetish strawberry jam underlying.

On the palate, the wine expands to show its ample vibrant red and black fruit medley, dominated by the classic for Chianti red cherry characteristic, followed by currants and cranberries, hints of toasted oak and fine minerals. The midpalate is rich with ripe red fruits going into a wonderfully balanced and lengthy finish.

Il Tarocco is a singularly great expression of the traditional Chianti wine, but with serious pedigree and excellent quality in the bottle. It should mature well during the next six to eight years and drink well with one of my favorite dishes from Florence: bistecca fiorentina.

Wine: Il Tarocco Chianti Classico DOCG

Grape: Sangiovese (90 percent), cannaiolo (10 percent)

Region: Tuscany, Italy

Vintage: 2005

Price: $8.49

Gil Lempert-Schwarz's wine column appears Wednesdays. Write him at P.O. Box 50749, Henderson, NV 89016-0749, or e-mail him at gil@winevegas.com.