Learn the ins and outs of pruning fruit trees

Do you want large, lush fruit from your trees? Do you want to learn how to keep the ladder in the garage so you don't jeopardize your health by climbing trees for fruit?

Learn the five steps of pruning fruit trees as well as how to avoid pesticides in a class taught by Don Fabbi and me at 8:30 a.m. Saturday at the Gardens at the Springs Preserve, 333 S. Valley View Blvd. You will find out how to create the perfect conditions to harvest delicious fruit.

Or are roses more your style? It is possible to grow water-efficient roses in the desert with the right flower selection, preparation and care. Master gardener Lee Heenan will cover many aspects of this topic at 9:30 a.m. Saturday at the Gardens at the Springs Preserve, with the focus on maintenance and pruning. Bring your questions and pick the brain of our local expert.

For more information, including cost, and to reserve your seat for the fruit tree pruning and rose demonstration, call 822-7786.

Here are some questions I encountered this week:

Q: I am sitting on the horns of a dilemma. Do I water my cactus weekly, or wait until March?

A: Kris Turner of Turner Greenhouse said because we live in the dry and windy Mojave Desert and plants and soil dry out quickly, water your cactuses weekly. If they were recently transplanted, they need water, because many of their roots were destroyed in the move.

Q: Why are our prickly pear cactuses lying on the ground?

A: According to Turner, it's because it has been cold and there is warmth near the ground, but they'll pop back up eventually.

Q: We usually feed our cactuses in March, but someone tells us we need to feed them now. What's correct?

A: Waiting until March is another myth, Turner said. Feeding in January increases the quality and lasting ability of spring bloomers. Use a fertilizer high in phosphorous and potassium, with another feeding in February. If they are summer bloomers, feed later.

Q: Does it do any good to wrap cactuses if the temperature gets down into the teens?

A: It doesn't do that much good. However, if you wrap them, use boxes or carpet, covering plants from the ground up to trap heat coming from the ground. Remove coverings each day and replace as needed. Turner finds leaving a wrap on too long increases chlorophyll content on the plant's surface and causes the skin to easily burn when the sun hits it.

Q: We planted purple and white alyssum a year ago for a ground cover, and it totally blanketed the area. It reseeded itself and now they are all white blooms. What happened?

A: Reseeding is a natural process of alyssum. It can produce surprises when coming into bloom, and, as time goes on, it will mix even more. I have different color combinations in my neighborhood.

Q: Do you have any suggestions for a low-growing ground cover for sunny and shady locations in our landscape?

A: Here are some excellent choices: centennial broom, creeping dalea, prostrate myoporum, hearts and flowers, low-growing pyracantha, creeping rosemary, germander, Sierra gold and Sierra negra.

For shady areas: ajuga, star jasmine, vinca major and minor, and mondo grass.

Q: I have heard leftover vegetable seeds from last year might not germinate. How do I find out if they are OK, and how do I know if seeds I plan to buy are fresh?

A: To check the leftover seeds for germination, spread 10 seeds on a paper towel, roll it up and place in a glass with a little water to moisten the seeds. In a week, unfold the towel and count the germinating seeds; if only a few germinated, discard the seeds.

When purchasing seeds, look for the date packaged on the packet. Seed companies usually replace seeds in racks on a yearly basis.

Q: You talk about spraying your fruit trees with dormant oil. Won't that damage them?

A: It's a practice used for decades; now oil is more refined and does a better job. It covers hibernating aphids, scales and mites and either suffocates or penetrates insects' minute breathing tubes. Apply it just before trees bloom on a calm sunny day, so it dries on the tree. Spray all twigs, branches and the trunk to a point of runoff.

Q: We are from Ohio and heard you can't grow blackberries in Las Vegas. Is that true?

A: No, they do well, providing you plant them on the east side of your home in well-drained soil. Plant now and let them grow. Next spring, remove weak canes before growth starts. Select six to eight canes and trim them back to knee-high to force side branches into producing squatty, well-branched canes. For maximum sweetness, harvest berries when dead ripe. After harvesting berries, remove old canes to generate new growth through summer.

Q: My grapefruit looks good, but when opening them they are dry and not appetizing. Why?

A: It sounds like inadequate watering. Deep watering develops deep roots to supply the water needed for juicier fruit. Also, you won't have to water as often.

Q: I have several grapevines and never know how to prune them. What do I do?

A: Call 257-5555 and have a diagramed brochure of steps to follow sent to you.

Q: Can we grow artichokes in Las Vegas?

A: There are a lot of perennials and herbs we can plant this time of year. They are: artichoke, asparagus, horseradish, Jerusalem artichoke, rhubarb, chives, fennel, lavender, mint, oregano, rosemary, sage, sorrel, thyme and winter savory in your permanent garden. If you already have perennials, add nitrogen to stimulate spring growth.

Artichokes prefer a climate in the 70s to 80s to get those big ones you dream about. But we have good luck with them at the gardens, and they are such a showy plant, bringing a tropical feeling to the landscape.

Q: What can I do to eliminate the white stuff along the edges of my sidewalk?

A: Make a solution of one cup vinegar in a gallon of water and drench the problem area to neutralize the alkali. You'll need to repeat again, because the problem returns, especially this time of year.

Linn Mills writes a garden column every Thursday. You can reach him at linn.mills@springspreserve.org or at the Gardens at the Springs Preserve 822-7754.