Pinot noir boasts Burgundian flavor

I am beginning to ponder the day, perhaps this year, when I am going to write about a bottle of wine, which at $6 is cheaper than a gallon of gasoline.

Something tells me we're not that far away, so here is an interesting candidate from California called Smoking Loon Pinot Noir. At first glance, the bottle looks expensive with the distinct Burgundian-style shape and weight, but the label gives it away.

The wine is a product of Don Sebastiani, formerly head of the large, venerable wine conglomerate Sebastiani Vineyards.

Initially calling the wine Smoking Duck got him in trouble with Duckhorn Vineyards, which had a similar image, so I guess the cigar in the loon's mouth made all the difference.

In the glass, Smoking Loon Pinot Noir is a vibrant semitranslucent garnet color with a firm, deeply colored core going out into a fine, slightly tinged light garnet rim definition with high viscosity.

On the nose, there are good amounts of crushed black plums, cranberry juice, cherries jubilee, milk chocolate and licorice root. Then bright red flowers, herbs and earth-driven minerals round out the layered toasty nose.

In the mouth, the wine is powerful for a pinot noir in this class, without masquerading as syrah, which happens a lot in California. There are again fresh, bright, crushed red berries, cherries, plums, raspberry coulis, cranberry fondant and copious amounts of phenols and earthy minerals with underlying hints of aniseed powder. The midpalate seems rich and forward with good balance between fruit and acidity, as well as good tannin structure that reflects the relatively cool-climate the wine is coming from. The finish is very fine with hints of candied cranberries and faint oak references.

This is a Burgundy-like pinot noir from a great area for growing this grape in North America. It should drink well through 2010, and could be served with grilled magret de canard (duck breast, pun intended).

Wine: Smoking Loon Pinot Noir

Grape: Pinot noir

Region: Sonoma, Calif.

Vintage: 2006

Price: $5.99

Gil Lempert-Schwarz's wine column appears Wednesdays. Write him at P.O. Box 50749, Henderson, NV 89016-0749, or e-mail him at gil@winevegas.com.