It is best to think of plants along a continuum (mesic vs. xeric) regarding whether they grow best in dry or wet soil or the type of mulch covering the surface of a landscape soil. So, instead, we group plants into these two categories for convenience.
Plants are not expecting normal low temperatures early or late in the winter season and are not prepared for them. Having a recording maximum/minimum thermometer and having the weather app prepares you for anticipating winter freezes.
Be careful when buying a soil moisture sensor. Sometimes they don’t always work.
A major key when converting to lower water use is to use as few plants of a larger size as possible. The fewer plants you use and still accomplish your goals, the better.
Some composts are rich and full of nutrients. Other times they are not so rich, and the addition of a fertilizer might be needed.
There is some discussion in academic circles whether crops grown in vertical farms aimed at feeding the world should be the higher-value horticultural crops or staple crops like multiple crops of wheat but with 70- to 80-day turnovers.
The trick to applying chemicals like copper, boron and chlorides is to do it far enough from your raised bed so that the roots from these vegetables won’t be harmed.
Nonfunctional lawns aren’t used for anything except beauty or aesthetics in a landscape. The use of grass lawns speaks to a lack of creativity and underappreciation of where we live.
The best time to plant winter-hardy trees and shrubs is during the fall, from around the end of September through mid-November.
The cycad, aka sago palm, is considered an ancient representative of its kind and has changed very little over the millennia. It is, like pine trees, a true gymnosperms.
