North Rim of the Grand Canyon beautiful, but less crowded

When the North Rim of Grand Canyon National Park reopens May 15 for the summer season, the first visitors may see spring wildflowers struggling up through remnant snowdrifts. Situated 1,000 feet higher than the South Rim, the North Rim's heavy winters force the shutdown of visitor facilities annually from Oct. 15 until mid-May. Only a few intrepid snowshoe trekkers or cross country skiers with backcountry permits reach the North Rim in the dead of winter.

Far larger numbers of visitors find their way to the South Rim, which remains open year-round. Enabled by ease of access by road, rail and air, thousands of visitors daily throng every viewpoint and crowd all facilities at the South Rim, especially during the traditional vacation season. Yet for Southern Nevadans, the North Rim is no farther distant at about 300 miles to either rim.

Those headed by highway for the South Rim use US 93 to Kingman, Ariz., Interstate 40 to Williams and Highway 64 to the Grand Canyon. If the North Rim calls to you, follow Interstate 15 into Utah. Take Highway 9 to Hurricane, Highway 59 and Arizona Highway 389 to Fredonia, Ariz., and US 89 Alternate to Jacob Lake. Junction there with Highway 67 to the North Rim.

Devotees of the North Rim prefer the less hectic experience available there. The views of the canyon from either rim are just as stunning, but visitors are more apt to enjoy them in solitude along the North Rim. While pinyon pine and juniper dominate the pygmy forest of the South Rim, the forests sweeping up to the North Rim stand tall and dark with pine, spruce and fir. Pure stands of quaking aspen border lush meadows filled with summer flowers. Locust trees flowering in shades of purple grace trails to some of the remote viewpoints. During its brief autumn, the North Rim boasts splendid displays of seasonal color, gone by the time the park service and concessionaires close up again.

Park visitors pay a $25 entrance fee unless they hold annual park passes or lifetime passes for senior and disabled citizens. Campers pay separate fees for use of sites, but they pay less if they hold passes. Visitors planning to camp should reserve a site well in advance by calling the national park reservation line at (877) 444-6777. Reserve online at www.recreation.gov. Availability is already tight at the North Rim with most remaining openings on Sundays and early in the week. Campers should consider nearby public and private campgrounds outside the national park boundaries at Jacob Lake and in Kaibab National Forest.

Built of native stone and timbers, the Grand Canyon Lodge at the North Rim characterizes the handsome style early favored in the nation's parks. It houses guests in rustic cabins on or near the rim, as well as in modern motel-style units nearby. Rates range from $112 for motel rooms to $170 for a Western cabin with a view down into the canyon, which sleeps four. To reserve accommodations at the North Rim, call national parks concessionaire Forever Resorts at (877) 386-4383 or reserve online at www.foreverlodging.com.

Perched at the edge of the chasm, the grand old lodge commands superb views at Bright Angel Point from its public rooms and porches. No visit to the North Rim is complete without savoring a meal in the lodge. Guests and visitors enjoy a choice of eateries featuring fine dining, a buffet, quick snacks, carryout deli food or bar food served in the saloon, according to their desires. To accommodate hikers and trail riders, breakfast begins early at a couple of locations in the hotel. A popular dinner option is the trailside chuckwagon cookout. For reservations for meals in the grand dining room, call (928) 638-2611.

Visitors enjoy views on scenic drives, hiking trails, mule rides or while bicycling on roads. Four trails along the rim vary from easy and short to moderate, but long. The only trail into the canyon from the North Rim is the North Kaibab Trail, shared by hikers and mules. Consider it arduous and long. The mules have the right-of-way. If you would rather leave the work to the mules, arrange for a trail ride at the Canyon Trail Rides desk in the lobby or call (435) 679-8665. Weight limits apply. Hour-long rides offered twice a day cost $40. Half-day rim or canyon rides offered twice daily cost $75. An all-day canyon ride starting early costs $165.

Margo Bartlett Pesek's column appears on Sundays.