Big Weekend, Big Bear, Big Fun

As winter resorts go, Big Bear Lake, Calif., is an especially good choice for Las Vegans. In less than a four-hour drive, you will find top-notch skiing and snowboarding, a large variety of restaurants, shops and plenty of lodging.

But you'll also find activities rarely or never available in other ski resorts. Big Bear has excellent opportunities to view bald eagles in their natural habitat, take a winter horseback ride or a winter cruise on the lake or head into the backcountry on a guided snowshoe excursion.

The Big Bear Mountain Resorts of Snow Summit and Bear Mountain have a variety of terrains, so they can accommodate skiers and boarders of all ages and abilities. Between the two mountains there are 55 runs and 26 lifts, including four high-speed chairs. The resorts are 11/2 miles apart, and your lift ticket is good at both mountains. There is even a free shuttle connecting the two.

Snow Summit is known as the premiere ski resort in Southern California, perfect for families that have both skiers and boarders. Bear Mountain is primarily a snowboarders paradise, making the claim that it is devoted almost entirely to the free-styler. Its "All Mountain Terrain Freestyle Park," locally known simply as "The Park," has plenty to keep anyone challenged for days or weeks. There are 150 jumps, more than 80 jibs and boxes, two half-pipes and Southern California's only Superpipe. The mountain is considered to have one of the most progressive parks in the world.

Plenty of snow has already fallen in Big Bear, and things are shaping up for a good season. As of mid-December, both ski and snowboard resorts were reporting a two-foot snow base. Both mountains have state-of-the-art snowmaking systems, including a $6 million update last year. They are able to cover 100 percent of the runs throughout the season. When planning a ski trip, often weeks ahead, it is comforting to know a resort is equipped to deal with a dry period.

New this year for snowboarders at both mountains are the "Intro to Park" classes. For those with basic skills who are 13 and over, this is the opportunity to safely learn new freestyle techniques on jibs and jumps. Instructors teach safety precautions as well as the proper approach and finish techniques.

Big Bear is located at an elevation of about 7,000 feet, and in winter, you can expect temperatures in the low 40s during the day and mid-20s at night. In an average year, there are about 120 inches of snowfall.

Board beasts and snow bunnies aren't the only wildlife drawn to the San Bernardino Mountains; they are also the seasonal haunt for the largest wintering bald eagle population in Southern California. Eagles come to Big Bear Valley from their summer habitats in Montana, Wyoming, Idaho and some from as far away as Canada and Alaska. Once the lakes up north freeze over, their food supply is diminished so they head south along the Pacific Migratory Flyway, and many end up in Big Bear.

Good viewing already has started and lasts through March when they return north. The population varies from year to year, but has reached as many as 30 bald eagles here. Stacey Goran, lead naturalist at the Big Bear Discovery Center said, "They mostly eat waterfowl such as ducks, mallards and coots. We have coots here by the thousands."

Since bald eagles mate for life, it's not surprising to have some visiting pairs. Three such couples have famous names; Ricky and Lucy; Ethel and Fred; and George and Gracie.

The best place to see the eagles is around Big Bear Lake, especially in dead trees, known as snags, where there is lots of room for them to perch. An effortless way to find them is through a tour with the Big Bear Discovery Center.

The center offers bald eagle tours through March. The three-hour program begins with a slide show that will teach you some basic information, such as the birds' preferred feeding habitat and migration patterns. Then it's a trip by van around Big Bear Lake, stopping at about a dozen of the hot spots for viewing. These majestic birds often weigh more than 10 pounds and aren't too hard to spot, with a signature white head and a wingspan that can reach eight feet.

Golden eagles also winter in the area, but they spend most of their time in dense, tree-covered areas where they can find their preferred chow, mostly rodents and other forest dwellers.

Big Bear Discovery Center also offers guided snowshoe tours. Snowshoeing is a wonderful way to access the backcountry and walk on virgin snow with only the sights and smells of the forest. Of course, these are dependent on snowfall, but this winter is looking good for the sport. Because of recent snow storms, the center started running snowshoe tours in mid-December, earlier than planned. The guides outfit patrons with shoes and poles and then teach the basics on how to use them. Depending on the ability of the group, most snowshoe hikes are about one to two miles in length. Along the way, instructors provide information about animal tracking, winter ecology and plant adaptation. Some trails might provide an opportunity to view fox, deer, coyote and squirrels tracks, and those from winter birds such as woodpeckers, chickadees and blue jays.

For those with their own snowshoes or who want to rent them in town, there are plenty of great trails to explore. For beginners, the Towne Trail is a good one. It starts from Knickerbocker Road, near Big Bear Village, and ends at Snow Summit. For more of a wilderness experience, heading out on a segment of the Pacific Crest Trail will satisfy even the most ardent outdoorsman. The Big Bear Discovery Center offers up-to-date information on snow conditions and has an excellent selection of maps for winter excursions in the San Bernardino Forest.

For a faster-paced romp in the snow, head for either Big Bear Snow Play or Magic Mountain. Both have taken inner-tubing to the next level, with snowmaking capabilities and Magic Carpet rides that take people up more than 200 feet to the top of the hill on an escalatorlike lift. Liberation from the labor of climbing steep, slippery hills means more downhill thrills. Magic Mountain's most popular ride, the bobsledlike alpine slide, remains open in winter.

Another good place to stop in during a visit is the Moonridge Animal Park, or as locals call it, the Big Bear Zoo. Open year round, it is the only zoo in the United States specializing in alpine wildlife, such as grizzly bears, black bears and mountain lions. The park is home to about 150 orphaned and injured wild animals, representing more than 80 species. This time of year, there are feeding tours on weekends. The zookeepers not only offer information on the behavior of different animals, but usually can tell how each individual came to live in the park.

Two other activities that aren't often available at other snow-centered resorts are winter horseback riding and boat tours. Steve and Rita Restieri have operated their business here for 20 years. They offer a short one-hour ride, but signing up for a tour of two hours or longer really provides the most spectacular scenery. Here, the guides go along a segment of the Pacific Crest Trail that provides picturesque views of the Mojave Desert, Big Bear Lake and the ski areas. Deer, coyote and even the elusive bobcat are sometimes sighted by riders.

Miss Liberty, a 64-foot paddle wheel boat, gives an informative tour of the lake, even in winter. The glassed-in area of the boat is heated, with comfortable seating where passengers can relax while taking in the incredible scenery along Big Bear Lake. The seven-mile-long lake rarely freezes over, and even if it does get a few inches of ice, this boat can cut through it. While cruising around, there will be more chances to see bald eagles and to learn about Big Bear's rich history.

Big Bear was named by Benjamin D. Wilson who came to the area in 1845. He found the place full of bears, hence the name. In 1860, William Holcomb came to hunt some of these bears but discovered gold instead, which in turn sparked Southern California's largest gold rush.

Lodging options in Big Bear run from simple rooms to suites, to B&B's and condos all the way up to large cabins. During holiday periods, advance reservations are highly recommended. Last-minute trips, though, almost always can be arranged through the Big Bear Lake Resort Association.

Throughout, Big Bear is a resort that welcomes all comers. Diners can feast on burgers or brie, drink vintage wines or bear, and wear high-fashion ski togs or old sweat pants. It is a place equally good for first tasting the snow sports or burrowing into them up to the neck, and an agreeable throwback to the pre-boom days when America and the snow sports were younger, simpler and falling in love.

Contact Deborah Wall at Deborabus@ aol.com.