Epergne returns to grace tables

: In past columns and in your books, you've mentioned using epergnes in your decorating. What exactly is an epergne, and how do you use one in your home décor?

A: I had never heard of epergnes either until my husband Dan's mother, the antique collector extraordinaire, entered my life. Mimi had a vast assortment of beautiful old glassware, silver, dishes and furnishings, and when I visited her home, I was like a kid in a candy store. I wanted to look at, touch and know about everything. A devoted student of history, Mimi delighted in her role as tutor.

Of all her beautiful treasures, I think Mimi cherished her Victorian glass epergnes the most. The first time I saw these multitiered centerpieces, which she displayed proudly on her dining room table and buffet, I was mesmerized. What the heck were these things? During one of our impromptu antique dishware tutorials, I learned that epergnes were large centerpieces that were often made of glass or silver. Used as an ornate serving dish, they featured branches or compartments that could hold anything from dishes and flowers to food and candles.

I'm not an expert on the history of epergnes, but I understand they were crafted by artisans on both sides of the Atlantic and were especially popular in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, when they were a key part of the elegant Edwardian table.

Mimi loved to tell me stories about how she discovered each of her epergnes when she was a new collector. And she described how she dressed them up for the various events and celebrations that marked her life. As I saw epergnes through Mimi's eyes, I became enchanted by them, too.

Years later, I jumped for joy when I saw a line of epergnes at market. I loved how modern designers had reinterpreted the epergne, keeping its original grace and beauty but giving it simpler, cleaner lines that were more conducive to my style. I ordered boxes of them for the store and welcomed the epergne as a new building block of the Nell Hill's look.

Not long after, I was having dinner at my friend Kerri's when her unusual spice rack stopped me dead in my tracks. It was the most amazing epergne I'd ever seen. Made of painted-black metal with gold embellishments, the crown-like edges that topped the serving trays on each of the epergne's three tiers gave it an interesting Gothic look.

I was in love. I begged Kerri to let me have the epergne reproduced so others could enjoy this gorgeous piece, too. She agreed, and now clones of Kerri's epergne are available in my stores.

If you scout around my home, you'll see that I use epergnes in both traditional and unusual ways. The one in my kitchen is a hardworking tool that holds things like cream and sugar dishes and salt and pepper shakers.

I also have one on my screened porch to display candles or other odds and ends. You could place an epergne on your dresser to hold jewelry, on your desk to sort office supplies or in your sewing room to collect notions.

When our daughter, Kelly, had her wedding and reception at our home, we decided to use epergnes as centerpieces on the smaller dinner tables set up in our courtyard. These creamy china pieces featured scalloped cups, which we covered in votives, and a fluted top that we filled with fresh flowers. The epergnes allowed us to create a memorable centerpiece that incorporated soft lighting, fresh flowers and dramatic height without eating up much table space.

If you are a fan of fabulous centerpieces or enjoy serving food with a flourish, you might want to welcome epergnes into your own family of decorating tools.

Mary Carol Garrity owns several home furnishings stores in Atchison, Kan., and wrote several books on home decorating. Write to her at nellhills@mail.lvnworth.com. Her column is syndicated by Scripps Howard News Service.