Organic matter can help landscapes

We send a lot of organic matter -- kitchen scraps, grass clippings, leaves, branches etc. -- to the dump when we really need to compost it to use in our landscapes. Composting simply is decayed organic matter that is in a state beyond recognition. We call it humus. It is the best organic matter to add to our soil.

You can compost in anything -- piles, bins, barrels, pits, trenches, etc. -- to camouflage the process. To do it right, you need organic material, moisture and microorganisms, such as bacteria, fungi, worms and pillbugs. Microorganisms carry out this monumental task of breaking waste down to that final pot of humus. Grind up large items such as branches, corn stalks, etc. to speed up the process.

Here is how to build and maintain your pile:

• Choose a spot and enclose the pile to contain it.

• Add your organic material up to a depth of about six inches.

• Sprinkle on an inch layer of compost to jump-start your pile with those microorganisms so they work harder.

• Keep the pile moist as a wrung-out sponge. Too much moisture brings on stinky microorganisms and too little slows or stops the process.

• Purchase a handful of worms and add to the pile. They eat their weight every day, increasing in numbers and quickly working through the pile like a bunch of hungry wolves. Get worms at fishing bait shops.

• Turn your pile often. In fact, the more you turn it, the faster it develops humus. Ambitious gardeners have humus in weeks.

Humus does many things for the soil: It improves soil structure by opening up the soil by adding air spaces and increasing water-holding capacity. Also, nutrients release slowly to sustain the desired plant growth you hope to attain. The real payoff comes when you grab a handful of rich, dark, crumbly humus and sniff it. Expect a sweet earthy smell.

Here are topics I encountered this past week:

Cut back ornamental grasses: Prune grasses back as new growth pushes from the plant's base. Cutting back sooner means observing ugly strawlike grass stumps. Right now, the grasses are beautiful and give birds seeds to harvest. Cut the grasses back to ankle-high and divide large stumps to reinvigorate them.

Inexpensive way to control weeds: Remove weeds as they emerge. Make frequent walks through the yard with an eagle eye on bare spots, especially after the recent rains. With constant vigilance, you will conquer your weeds.

Pruning figs: Prune now before they leaf out. Eliminate crisscrossing branches and those growing down. Remember, do not remove all of last year's new wood, because it is where figs come from.

Frozen bird of paradise: Prune it when you see new sprouting coming from unfrozen branches. Expect a surge of growth when temperatures warm. Don't worry about feeding it, because it makes its own fertilizer.

Pruning chaste tree: This tree does not require much pruning, except to thin out the interior. If seedpods bother you, remove them after blooming ceases.

Pruning bougainvilleas: If they froze back, remove affected branches back to where new growth resumes. Prune after bloom to avoid removing potential flowers. Through the summer, nip back extending branches to keep it in check. If you have a lot of rapid growth, it indicates you're overwatering. Do not fertilize after Labor Day to slow new growth that easily freezes in winter.

Eliminate crabgrass: Apply a herbicide now to prevent crabgrass from germinating. To control it organically, apply corn gluten now. Follow directions for best control; many don't and get erratic results.

Linn Mills writes a gardening column each Sunday. You can reach him at linn.mills@springspreserve.org or call him at 822-7754.