Wedded climbers get into bouldering business

Jeff Clapp’s mother said he had two speeds: “off” and “blast off.”

Clapp is in blast-off mode these days. On Oct. 17, he and his wife of 12 years, Beth Malloy, opened Refuge Climbing & Fitness, 6283 S. Valley View Blvd., Suite C. The facility allows climbers to practice bouldering — climbing a wall without a harness. If climbers slip, they fall onto a 14-inch foam landing pad. The gym offers 170 different routes of varying levels of difficulty. Once every 90 days, the holds are changed, offering new challenges.

“A lot of work goes into setting good routes,” said employee Olivia Gualda, a climber since she was 16. “The same routes have to work for people 5 feet tall to more than 6 feet.”

She said practicing on different courses comes in handy for climbers who live in the valley, where Mother Nature offers many opportunities to pursue the sport.

“Las Vegas is one of the best places to get into climbing because we have world-class places to climb, like Red Rock Canyon, Mount Charleston, Clark Mountain and even Zion National Park,” Gualda said.

Clapp said he knows the facility opened during what can be considered the off-season: October, when the weather becomes ideal for outdoor climbing. Still, his indoor facility has its advantages, he said.

“Even though the area is perfect for rock climbers, a local climber needs time to get to a place like Red Rock Canyon,” Clapp said. “We’re west of the airport and only minutes from two highways. An indoor workout allows the climber to stay strong for when time is available for outdoor trips. Climbing is like golf in that if you lay off for a couple weeks, your skills diminish.”

Keeping in mind the time of year, Clapp is delaying the grand opening of his gym until after the first of the year. He plans a big celebration with climbing competitions for all skill levels. In the meantime, general manager Cody Hidler, who worked with Clapp for seven years in Salt Lake City, is joining him in making finishing touches. The site also is awaiting its signage.

Clapp said bouldering is a pastime that builds physical strength but can also be social. To accommodate for that, comfortable chairs are being selected for the facility.

“The warmth of our space is important,” Clapp said. “Climbers make friends easily. In between climbs, you rest and just naturally talk to the person next to you. I’ve seen it thousands of times. Climbers become friends, form a social group and then plan outdoor climbing trips. I met my wife at the gym I owned in Salt Lake City.”

Clapp said he built the Salt Lake City gym in 1992. After more than 20 years, the facility was losing its luster.

“We knew a large modern facility was coming soon to Salt Lake City, and we knew we wouldn’t be able to compete,” Clapp said. “So last March, we decided simply to close our gym and give everyone plenty of notice. Beth and I then asked, ‘What do we do now?’ Because climbing was important to both of us and because I was experienced in this business, we decided to finance our own bouldering and fitness center here in Las Vegas. We wanted no partners, including banks. This is ours.”

Clapp also sold his two gyms in California.

He said when pondering a name for his new venture in Las Vegas, the word “refuge” struck a chord.

“I kept a notepad with me, trying to think of a name that captured the social and recreational aspect we wanted,” he said. “Refuge was a name that worked because we are a refuge from the noise and crowds of the Strip or whatever else causes chaos in a person’s life.”

Clapp, Hidler and staff member/instructor Justin Edberg worked with only a few outsiders to build the 7,000-square-foot climbing space.

“My job was cutting the steel for our welders,” said Clapp. “If necessary, you’ll also find me in the back room power washing the holds.”

Refuge Climbing & Fitness is open from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday and Thursday and 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Fees start at $17 per day and go up to $59 a month for an annual individual membership and $99 a month for an annual family membership. Customers can rent climbing shoes for $3 and chalk bags for $2. Bouldering and yoga classes also are available at the gym, as are a kids climbing area with harnesses and some traditional workout equipment. Climbers must sign an injury waiver, and they receive a short orientation before beginning their climbs.

For more information, visit climbrefuge.com or call 702-383-0175.