Pinot Brasserie at The Venetian has an interior design with a classical look that nonetheless lends itself to a relaxing atmosphere. Photo by Ralph Fountain.

For a number of reasons, Pinot Brasserie is a breath of fresh air in Strip (and, by extension, Las Vegas) dining.

Most of those reasons have to do with its lack of pretension. Just as management styles filter down, the tone of a restaurant is set by its chef. In this case, that's Joachim Splichal, a "celebrity chef" you've probably never heard of. He's got the chops -- James Beard Foundation Awards, etc. -- but despite something like 27 restaurants, he's far from a household name, and that sort of natural understated air comes through at Pinot Brasserie.

The menu, for example. It's classic brasserie, but with the California touches Splichal is known for.

The room. Brasserie again, very pleasant and classic, comfortable and relaxed.

And prices. A grilled Maine lobster dinner for $38? On the Strip? During a relatively busy (read: not mid-December) time of year?

Our dessert sort of summarized the whole mission of the place. Big, juicy, ripe strawberries had been roasted with balsamic vinegar and a touch of black pepper, vanilla and mint ($9). Strawberries and balsamic vinegar is a combination that's far from fresh, but roasting the strawberries in it and then serving them with Humboldt Fog goat cheese is. Yes, there were just three strawberries, but they were huge, and this was a more than adequate dessert for two.

Maybe that's because one of our appetizers was practically tantamount to a meal. A large piece of buttery foie gras ($17.50) had been carefully seared to maintain its creamy center and served with a small salad of field and micro-greens and herbs, emphasizing textural contrasts and setting off the richness of the liver. A bit of pumpkin confit and the spiced pumpkin gastrique, or reduction, was almost a lagniappe.

In keeping with the season, this dish had an earthy note, and so did our entrees. Braised short ribs ($33.50) are just the sort of elemental dish we'd expect in a brasserie. They require patient braising to reach their potential -- all those natural sugars caramelizing and mingling with the juices and rendering the meat meltingly tender -- and here it was done right. And the crisp-tender baby carrots (real baby carrots, not lathe-turned), onions and turnips hit the right note.

Lentils in great profusion provided an offbeat accompaniment to some seared scallops ($31.25), and we liked the pairing, even more so with the flavor of bacon that infused the dish.

Our other appetizer was an equally inspired riff. Belgian endive ($10.25) can be unpleasantly bitter, but candied orange zest, Roquefort cheese, walnuts and a mustard-tinged dressing counteracted the most bitter notes without beating down the endive's character.

Service throughout from our server, busser and the kitchen was prompt and efficient but congenial. The wine list is deep, varied and reasonably priced; our 2001 Ballentine Vineyards Cabernet Franc ($45) was likewise unpretentious and pleasant.

Pinot Brasserie has been at The Venetian since it opened, but this was the first time I've been in for dinner. I consider it a find.

Heck, I'd go back just for those strawberries.

Las Vegas Review-Journal reviews are done anonymously at Review-Journal expense. Contact Heidi Knapp Rinella at 383-0474 or e-mail her at hrinella@ reviewjournal.com.