Antinori Santa Cristina Bianco

Wine: Antinori Santa Cristina Bianco.

Grapes: grechetto (60 percent), procanico (40 percent)

Region: Umbria, central Italy

Vintage: 2011

Price: $8.99

In the glass: Santa Cristina Bianco is a fine, pale almost clear citrine-yellow color with a star-bright core going out into a very faint, nearly glass-clear meniscus with medium viscosity.

On the nose: Fresh, crisp and tangy are things that immediately spring to mind here for this highly aromatic wine, with lots of zippy kiwi, pomelo and general citrus zest; also white currants, crushed cloudberries, hints of honeysuckle and orange blossom, then zucchini flowers and crushed fine granite for minerality.

On the palate: It is very aromatic as it hits the center palate with loads of zesty pears, citrus rind, Granny Smith apples and excellent acidity to carry that backbone in the wine right through the relatively soft and supple midpalate into a finish that is chock-full of vibrant white currants, stone fruit and kiwi crush with just a touch of minerality. It is entirely clean and crisp to the end.

Odds and ends: The Antinori family has been making wine in Tuscany for more than six centuries in an unbroken line of 26 generations since 1385. I think it is fair to say that this qualifies them to know how to make great wine. And yet the family was one of a handful of great winemakers that knew a modern approach was needed for Italian wine to succeed worldwide. The Antinori portfolio now counts a tremendous lineup of great wines, not just from Italy, but also Napa Valley, Chile and Hungary, to name a few. It is a dynamic, engaged and globetrotting winemaking family that excels at their craft. They're also some of the nicest people in the business. From their top legendary wine Solaia right down to this delicious and superb spring white wine, it's all great. At less than $9, Santa Cristina Bianco is a fabulous alternative to pinot grigio and sauvignon blanc. Drink it with sauteed shrimp scampi or a seafood salad. The wine is good now through 2014.

Gil Lempert-Schwarz's wine column appears Wednesdays. Write him at P.O. Box 50749, Henderson, NV 89106-0749, or email him at gil@winevegas.com.