Mark West Pinot Noir

Wine: Mark West Pinot Noir.

Grape: Pinot noir

Region: Edna Valley, Calif.

Vintage: 2008

Price: $9.99

In the glass: Mark West Pinot Noir is a medium garnet-red color with a semitranslucent core going out into a pink to clear rim definition and medium-high viscosity.

On the nose: There is immediate crushed red berry fruit, subtle oak references, sweetish vanilla extract, raspberry coulisse, minerals, licorice root and some underlying red floral characteristics on this attractive and classic-scented pinot.

On the palate: The wine has very forward mixed red fruits, with red plums, crushed red berry extract, then phenolic compounds, which give it a nice backbone in combination with the soft, supple tannins. The midpalate is richly balanced and nuanced, and the subtle structure is well-defined through the long, lingering finish. Mark West Pinot Noir is an excellent example of California pinot noir, made in the classical way from one of the best areas for the grape -- and from a great vintage to boot.

Odds and ends: In the early days of California, 26 land grants were created, including Rancho San Miguel on the banks of the stream now known as Mark West Creek. Bob and Joan Ellis, who were early California pinot noir advocates back in the 1970s, planted chardonnay and pinot noir on this land, recognizing that they had a micro-climate not unlike that of Burgundy, France. Interestingly, in 1990, Mark West became the first winery to be certified organic by California Certified Organic Farmers. The ideal location in the Russian River Valley region allows this interesting winery to craft what can easily be considered top-grade pinot noir from the normally exorbitantly expensive Edna Valley viticultural area. A lot of people search high and low for California pinot noirs of this quality, but here it is at a crazy price of less than $10.

Gil Lempert-Schwarz's wine column appears Wednesdays. Write him at P.O. Box 50749, Henderson, NV 89016-0749, or e-mail him at gil@winevegas.com.