Small Plates: Pot Liquor and “Patisserie”



Pot Liquor C.A.S. — for “contemporary American smokehouse” — opened last week at Town Square. It specializes in, as you might imagine, smoked meats, but also Southern foods. “Pot liquor,” sometimes spelled “potlikker,” is the term for the liquid that remains when greens are cooked, Southern-style. The rustic/urban restaurant seats 338 in an atmosphere that includes exposed brick, wooden tables and works by local artists, and communal-seating tables add to the festive atmosphere. The restaurant has a separate lunch menu, a lemonade bar and lists draft, bottled and canned beers along with cocktails and whiskeys. Here’s a sample of the menu:

Appetizers and salads: Pork belly with country grits, $9.95; Kansas City-style burnt ends, $10.95; stuffed trotters, $10.95; grilled prawns with boudin noir, $12.95; fried catfish Benedict, $9.95; baked blue crab, $11.95; boiled-peanut hummus, $7.95; fried green tomato salad, $12.95; baby rib wedge salad, $13.95.

Entrees (with two sides): Worcestershire-braised beef short rib, $16.95; chicken potpie, $15.95; pan-seared striped bass, $21.95; chicken under a brick, $21.95; dry-rubbed spareribs, $18.95 for a half-rack, $25.95 for a full; Texas-style beef brisket, $18.95 for 8 ounces, $25.95 for 16; Carolina pulled pork, $17.95 for 8 ounces, $25.95 for 16; dry-rubbed spareribs and baby-back ribs, $28.95; brisket, half grilled chicken and pulled pork, $29.95.

Sides: Grilled corn succotash, $4.95; macaroni and cheese, $6.95; hoppin’ John, $5.95; kale and cashew slaw, $4.95; fries with Alabama white sauce, $4.95; collard greens in pot liquor, $6.95.

Desserts: Brownie bread pudding, fried pies, fried banana split, strawberry shortcake sandwiches, pie in jar or The Pot Liquor Cluster, $6 each.

Hours are from 11 a.m. to midnight Sundays through Wednesdays and 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Thursdays through Saturdays, with happy hour from 3 to 5 p.m. weekdays. Call 702-816-4600 or visit


KOUIGN-AMANN 2 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon salt

8¼ ounces unsalted butter, plus extra for greasing

1 teaspoon yeast

¾ cup lukewarm water

Generous 1 cup superfine sugar, plus extra for folding

12 2 ¾-inch tart rings

Put the flour and salt in a bowl and rub in ¼ ounce of the butter. Mix the yeast with the water, then add to the flour and mix to form a dough. Knead for 6 to 8 minutes, until it becomes elastic, then chill for 1 hour. Take the remaining butter out of the fridge and shape it into a rectangle measuring 5 by 2½ inches.

Roll the dough into a rectangle on a lightly floured surface. Place the butter in the center and fold over the sides of the dough to encase it. Roll, turn 90 degrees, fold and roll again, then repeat. Let dough rest in the fridge for one hour. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Sprinkle some of the sugar on the work surface and roll and fold the dough again, then sprinkle the rest of the sugar on top. Roll the dough out to 1/8 inch thick and cut into 3 ½-inch squares using pastry wheel or sharp knife.

Make a sugar mound on the work surface and place a square of the dough on top. Fold in all four corners and press them into the center. Press the four corners into the center again.

Use a pastry brush to brush the insides of the rings with butter. Place each piece of sugared dough into a ring and bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until golden. Leave to cool slightly, then run a spatula around the edge of the rings to release, and leave to cool on a wire rack.

Makes 12.

— Recipe from “Patisserie” by William Curley and Suzue Curley (Jacqui Small LLP; $60)

— Heidi Knapp Rinella


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