The New York DB Burger is a stuffed 9-ounce sirloin burger served at Daniel Boulud Brasserie. Photo by John Locher.

Famed chef Daniel Boulud isn't always on the premises of his restaurant, Daniel Boulud Brasserie at Wynn Las Vegas, 3131 Las Vegas Blvd. South, but that doesn't mean his presence isn't felt in the kitchen.

"He's here a lot," says executive chef Philippe Rispoli, who is Boulud's eyes and ears at the restaurant. "He calls every morning, he wants to know what's going on," such as were there any guests the night before who weren't pleased with their meal.

The two chefs, who both coincidentally grew up outside of Lyon, France, work on the menu together, but Rispoli has some autonomy in the kitchen with the nightly specials.

Boulud, who is kept busy with his three restaurants in New York and another in Palm Beach, Fla., has entrusted his Las Vegas brasserie to a chef who has had four years' experience working in his kitchen. Still, Rispoli says the restaurant has been "a big challenge. I love a challenge. When this position came open, I wanted to take it."

The world-famous Boulud was executive chef at Le Cirque in New York from 1986 to 1992 , then opened his first restaurant, Daniel, in 1993. Rispoli joined Boulud's culinary crew in 1996.

Following his stint with Boulud, Rispoli was executive chef at the Mansion at the MGM Grand and at Aureole in Mandalay Bay.

The Brasserie features a separate bar-lounge area and a view of the Wynn Las Vegas "lake," complete with patio dining.

Dinner hours are from 5:30 to 10:30 p.m. daily, and reservations are suggested (248-3463).

Starters: Shrimp or crab cocktail with grapefruit, tomato, celery and three sauces ($20); oysters or clams, East or West coast ($3.50 each); tuna tartar Parisien with mustard, herbs and toasted sourdough ($17); escargots persillade with mushrooms, garlic, tomato, almond and crouton ($18); and DB's Danish-style smoked salmon with capers, creme fraiche and red onions ($17).

Soups and salads: Pumpkin soup with spiced apple compote, pumpkin seeds and gingerbread ($12); onion soup gratinee with Gruyere cheese ($12); lobster bisque with tarragon whipped cream and puff pastry palmier ($14); mesclun salad with balsamic-olive oil vinaigrette ($12); roasted beet salad with blue cheese, endive and walnuts ($13); Maine lobster salad with watermelon, hearts of palm and curry-lime vinaigrette ($20).

Entrees: The original New York DB Burger, a 9-ounce sirloin burger stuffed with braised short ribs and foie gras, served with black truffles on a Parmesan bun and french fries ($32); grilled salmon with endive, carrots with cumin and an orange glaze ($29); peppered tuna steak with parsnip mousseline, shallot confit and port wine sauce ($32); roasted halibut with basil broth, artichoke and zucchini en barigoule ($36); steak frites, a 10-ounce New York strip steak with shallot butter, watercress and french fries ($38); steak au poivre, a peppered 8-ounce filet mignon accompanied by spinach and gratin dauphinois ($43); braised short ribs with mashed potatoes and garden vegetable medley ($42); pork chop au jus with bacon crust, savoy cabbage and sweet potato ($34); crispy duck confit with wild mushroom fricassee and mache salad ($32); and oregano-braised veal cheeks with orange zest, salsify, black olives and broccoli rabe ($31).

Extras: A three-course prix fixe menu ($48) is available until 7:30 p.m. The Brasserie also features a charcuterie of cured meats and homemade pickles ($24), five artisan cheeses with dried fruit, walnuts and raisin bread ($19), brick oven pizza ($14), tomato tarte tatin with goat cheese, arugula and basil pistou ($18) and caviar ($65-$350).

Desserts: Passion fruit panna cotta ($9); cheesecake "Philadelphia" with vanilla streusel crust and duo of marmalades ($9); warm honey caramelized pears with pound cake "pain perdu" and burnt honey ice cream ($11); cocoa-crusted profiteroles with Rocky Road ice cream and bittersweet chocolate sauce ($9); chocolate turtle coupe with caramel ice cream, salted walnut crunch and bittersweet chocolate sauce ($13); and warm milk chocolate fondant with hazelnut crust, praline sauce and creme Chantilly ice cream ($11). A selection of sorbets and ice creams also is available.

Appetizers is a weekly informational column about new developments on the Las Vegas dining scene. Items should not be considered reviews or recommendations and none is a paid advertisement. Contact Ken White at 383-0256 or e-mail him at kwhite@ reviewjournal.com.