Gardens I've visited this past week look like Custer's last stand. Even desert plants are struggling when placed against walls and in parking lots. The heat is almost more than I can bear as I sit under the air conditioner. Here are some questions I encountered:

Q: How is a seedless watermelon developed?

A: Simply stated -- and I mean watered down greatly -- here is how it is done. Seed companies take regular watermelon seeds and put them in a solution called colchicines. This solution doubles the normal number of chromosomes to get what is called tetraploid seeds, or seeds having four sets of chromosomes. Seed companies pollinate this tetraploid plant with a diploid or normal watermelon, and that results in a plant that is basically a "mule" that cannot produce any viable seeds.

You then must plant seeds from this mule plant, which are available at your nursery along with another variety of watermelon. The other variety provides the pollen for the bees to pollinate the mule plants, and the results are seedless watermelons. There has been some amazing work done with seedless watermelons since the idea came about. No more need to do any spitting, you just enjoy.

The seed companies find that seedless watermelons do much better when planted in temperatures ranging in the 80s to 95 with night temperatures in the 60s to 70s. It takes about 85 to 90 days to mature, so plant them in the spring later than normal.

Q: We have watermelons, cantaloupe, honeydew, crenshaw and casaba melons that are all about ready. We want to harvest them at the peak of quality. Can you tell us signs to look for?

A: Where do you live? I'll come over to show you, provided I get to enjoy the treat. Cantaloupes are ready when the stem separates easily -- note the word easily -- at the point of attachment. Take a further look at the stem's attachment point on the melon. A fully ripe cantaloupe will have a concave depression after detachment, a sign of true ripeness.

Here is an epilogue to the story: When you purchase a cantaloupe at the store, focus on the point where the fruit was attached to the vine. You also want that concaved appearance for quality. Many cantaloupes are torn off, which means they are still green inside.

Cut off your honeydew, crenshaw and casaba melons after the fruit turns completely yellow. Another telling sign of ripeness is pushing on the blossom side of the fruit. You want it to give with slight pressure from your thumb. If it does this, invite me over. Don't leave your melons lying on the ground too long, because they are prone to rot.

Watermelons are easy to determine ripeness. The best indicator is a yellow belly on the underside where the melon touches the ground. Dead tendrils on the stem where they attach to the melon is another indicator the melon is ready for harvest. You may also thump the fruit. Listen for the dull sound for ripe fruit, avoid the metallic sound. This technique takes practice, and if you have just a few melons include all of the above to make your decision.

Q: Why do I have so many misshapen cucumbers?

A: It could be brought on by lack of water, low fertility or poor pollination. Do you realize that when a cucumber sets fruit, you will be harvesting it within five days? If the plant can't get enough water and might be stressing for nutrients, then misshapen fruit results. It also might be the lack of bee activity. Like us, bees are not as active during the heat and may miss a few flowers. Cucumbers, depending on the variety, are ready for harvest anytime after they are longer than 2 inches, and they are over the hill when they begin turning yellow.

Q: When do you harvest eggplants for the highest quality?

A: Harvest the fruit while it is still shiny and deep in color. To further ensure freshness, press the side of the fruit with your thumb and if an impression remains, it's ready for eggplant Parmesan, one of my favorite dishes. If it's dull in color and you find seeds turning brown, it's overripe so discard it. Remove all overripe fruit to stimulate more fruit production.

Referring back to the beginning of the season, eggplants love hot weather. But if you plant them too early, cold weather stops growth and that reduces yields. And if plants set in poorly drained soil, it affects the yield. When plants get about 6 inches high, nip back the growing tips and this will encourage branching. And with more branching, comes more fruit.

Q: What is causing black spots on my peppers?

A: It is blossom end rot, the same problem that expresses itself in tomatoes, eggplants, watermelons and squash. It is brought on by a calcium deficiency. There's calcium in our soils, but it takes water to dissolve it off the soil solid. Another cause could be if your plant was stressing for water at conception of the fruit. Excessive night temperatures above 75 degrees also bring on blossom-end rot. Remove infected fruit so the plant will continue to produce. Harvest them when they become full size while still green or turning yellow. Allowing them to turn red increases their vitamin A and C content. Harvest them by cutting them off the branches.

Q: You often refer to amaranthus as a vegetable. What is it and will it grow here?

A: Amaranthus, sometimes called Chinese spinach, is a green, leafy vegetable and/or grain crop. The leaves and seeds are high in protein. It is more commonly known as amaranth and also known in the bedding plant industry as Joseph's Coat. Amaranth varies greatly in foliage color with bright red leaves, along with the shape of the leaves and the height of the plant. The cloverlike flowers are small but occur in such large numbers that their effect is outstanding. It's easy to grow; in fact it can almost become a weed. It grows from 2 to 4 feet or more high. Amaranths do best on sunny, raised beds. After planting, thin to 6 inches apart. It likes a good fertile soil with plenty of irrigation during summers.

WINE GRAPE-GROWING SEMINAR

Nevada Cooperative Extension is having a wine grape-growing seminar from 7 to 9 p.m. July 31 at the new Extension complex off I-215 at Windmill Parkway. You'll learn the types of wine grapes to grow and how to care for them. You must RSVP at 257-5509. Leave your name, contact phone number and number of people attending. Anyone interested in signing up for future winemaking classes should call 257-5555.

Linn Mills writes a gardening column each Thursday. You can reach him at linn@reviewjournal.com or at the Gardens at the Springs Preserve at 822-8325.